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2024-03-19T13:19:45+00:00text/html2016-04-01T19:26:59+00:00Becky Williamson55.860547577623 -6.3245889441698Completing Islay's gridsquares
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/246
To anyone who is as much an anorak as I am about grid squares, more specifically Scottish grid squares and, to be even more precise, Scottish island grid squares – OK, Islay’s 743 – you may have noticed I submitted my final photograph for the island (NR2971) on Monday 28th March 2016. <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4882831" target="_blank" title="NR2971 : In the middle of Loch Gruinart by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2971 : In the middle of Loch Gruinart by Becky Williamson" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/88/28/4882831_1c01dd60_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a><br />
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OK, I doubt anyone has noticed. No-one except me and my nine faithful followers had even an incline of knowledge that Thursday 24th March 2016 was a significant Geograph day for me.<br />
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I started submitting photographs to Geograph in 2010 on a walk in a remote part of the island<br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1783528" target="_blank" title="NR3670 : Gleann Airigh an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3670 : Gleann Airigh an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/78/35/1783528_b6a80514_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1740468" target="_blank" title="NR3571 : View NE from Beinn Bhreac by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3571 : View NE from Beinn Bhreac by Becky Williamson" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/74/04/1740468_8dda6bd9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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and somewhere along the way decided I’d do all the Islay ones – easy as that’s where I lived – or so I thought. I counted them up – 743 accessible ones (I just know someone is going to go and count them and prove me wrong)! When I say ‘accessible’, I mean accessible by foot. I qualified my quest after realising how difficult it was to access the islets off Islay’s shores, although I have done most of them too.<br />
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I planned walks which covered as many gridsquares as possible and got annoyed if a circular walk left just one unphotographed square in the middle of nowhere. Much of Islay is difficult terrain; there are very few footpaths and it is nearly always boggy underfoot with hidden holes, annoying fences, thick vegetation and sudden coastal inlets making walking very difficult. Friends joined me and didn’t moan too much when I suggested venturing just a wee bit further north/south/east/west in order to get into a gridsquare. “But we’re not going that way, Becky,” they protested. Once I left friends at a beach whilst I wandered on for the sake of a northerly grid square. <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3344532" target="_blank" title="NR3776 : Coastline south of Mala Bholsa, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3776 : Coastline south of Mala Bholsa, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/34/45/3344532_272efaee_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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When I returned they were all watching an otter. <br />
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Another time I hopped across tussocks in a blizzard whilst my friends groaned and carried on, heads down; they the sensible ones and me getting wet and miserable, all for the sake of a photograph <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813543" target="_blank" title="NR3469 : The snow begins to clear, Loch na Leoig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3469 : The snow begins to clear, Loch na Leoig, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/81/35/2813543_70b4b9ae_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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Some good friends took me on a boat trip to get to Nave Island, made up of four grid squares and I managed to get all four on that occasion, as well as a host of squares which were more easily accessible by boat.<br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150327" target="_blank" title="NR2875 : Shingle beach, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2875 : Shingle beach, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150327_820f7293_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150317" target="_blank" title="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150317_12db632f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150301" target="_blank" title="NR2876 : The northern side of Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2876 : The northern side of Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150301_efa43b0d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150322" target="_blank" title="NR2976 : Nave Island trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2976 : Nave Island trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150322_a66b6f0d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a><br />
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I was also privileged to get to Orsay Island <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2414113" target="_blank" title="NR1651 : Orsay Chapel and Lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1651 : Orsay Chapel and Lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/41/41/2414113_5e80c3a1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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and Texa island and get all the squares on two separate occasions.<br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366252" target="_blank" title="NR3943 : Chapel on Texa by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3943 : Chapel on Texa by Becky Williamson" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/36/62/2366252_e810012b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366264" target="_blank" title="NR3843 : Sgeirean Poll a' Chaca, Texa by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3843 : Sgeirean Poll a' Chaca, Texa by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/36/62/2366264_c4107b96_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="74" /></a><br />
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Of course I wanted a full Geograph stamp for each photograph and so, unsatisfied with supplementary status, I had to revisit some squares which I’d only photographed from afar in my pre-serious days. <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367285" target="_blank" title="NR4055 : Loch nam Breac, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4055 : Loch nam Breac, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/36/72/2367285_b934895d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a> and<br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1786843" target="_blank" title="NR3948 : Loch Sholum, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3948 : Loch Sholum, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/78/68/1786843_e5184645_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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I was always particularly excited when I got a first for a square or a Tpoint. Of course that was more likely to happen with squares such as NR3754 <br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2702201" target="_blank" title="NR3754 : Ditch in moorland east of Torra, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3754 : Ditch in moorland east of Torra, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/70/22/2702201_0a621afd_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a><br />
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or NR4159<br />
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<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3339096" target="_blank" title="NR4159 : Moorland and deer fence west of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4159 : Moorland and deer fence west of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/33/90/3339096_47c65ba6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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which are pretty featureless and bang in the middle of nowhere.<br />
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Now, in the name of all things anorak and purely because I’ve left the best place in the world behind and want to pay tribute to it, here are my ten favourite Islay gridsquares, in no particular order:<br />
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NR3671 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870696" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Airigh Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Airigh Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/87/06/2870696_4a1e9864_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="83" /></a><br />
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NR2362 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347489" target="_blank" title="NR2362 : Ruined croft above Gleann na h-Uamha, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2362 : Ruined croft above Gleann na h-Uamha, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/34/74/3347489_71fcf8e4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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NR2170 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2414095" target="_blank" title="NR2170 : Trigpoint at Cnoc Uamh nam Fear, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2170 : Trigpoint at Cnoc Uamh nam Fear, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/41/40/2414095_3d160030_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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NR4178 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2414082" target="_blank" title="NR4178 : Bagh an Da Dhoruis, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4178 : Bagh an Da Dhoruis, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/41/40/2414082_8fb76699_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a><br />
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NR3877 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836824" target="_blank" title="NR3877 : The ruin of Bolsa, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3877 : The ruin of Bolsa, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/83/68/2836824_f2d6322b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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NR3974 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795622" target="_blank" title="NR3974 : Margadale, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3974 : Margadale, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/79/56/2795622_87036fd7_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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NR4362 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2040535" target="_blank" title="NR4362 : Abhainn Gleann Logain, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4362 : Abhainn Gleann Logain, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/04/05/2040535_5cacea15_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
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NR4658 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3042047" target="_blank" title="NR4658 : Beach north of Proaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4658 : Beach north of Proaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/04/20/3042047_4f3c40e3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a><br />
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NR2845 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2041922" target="_blank" title="NR2845 : Caves on the north side of Astle Bay, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2845 : Caves on the north side of Astle Bay, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/04/19/2041922_9542212c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
NR4256 - <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3409153" target="_blank" title="NR4256 : Looking south-east along ridge of Beinn Bheigier, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4256 : Looking south-east along ridge of Beinn Bheigier, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/40/91/3409153_c1aabc17_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
text/html2014-09-16T16:30:29+00:00Becky Williamson55.905343666029 -6.3295817872938Circumnavigation of Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/216
For how long have I wanted to entitle a blog 'Circumnavigation of Islay' or submit a photo for NR2976, one of the four gridsquares which cover Nave Island, Islay's most northerly offshore island. Thanks to Sandy's late mother, this trip was to cost me no more than an unexpected day's holiday and was to be one of the most memorable trips of my life (thus far!)<br />
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A party of 12 intrepid passengers set off from Port Ellen under the supervision of Gus Newman of Islay Sea-Adventures and his skipper Alex. We soon passed the chain of islets known an Sgeir Fada <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148362" target="_blank" title="NR3644 : Sgeir Fhada by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3644 : Sgeir Fhada by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148362_38151ff3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <br />
before viewing the secluded beach of Port an Eas (Port of the Waterfall) from the first time from the sea <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148365" target="_blank" title="NR3342 : Port an Eas from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3342 : Port an Eas from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148365_0f54bb82_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="81" /></a>. <br />
Having only recently bagged the square NR3341, it was interesting to view the volcanic dyke from the seaward side. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148374" target="_blank" title="NR3341 : Volcanic dyke at Port na Luinge, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3341 : Volcanic dyke at Port na Luinge, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148374_b5a0d13d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. <br />
The sight of wild goats in the same square was a humbling reminder that, for all our ingenuity, humans still have trouble accessing parts of the world that other, nimbler, creatures take in their stride - <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148381" target="_blank" title="NR3341 : Wild goats at Rubha na Mèise Bàine by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3341 : Wild goats at Rubha na Mèise Bàine by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148381_8e77179d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="81" /></a>.<br />
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A little further round the coast Gus slowed down to point out part of the wreckage of the Inniskea, a Scottish steel steam ship that smashed into rocks in 1912. Not much is left now of the wreckage. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148397" target="_blank" title="NR3040 : Part of the wreck of the Inniskea on The Oa, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3040 : Part of the wreck of the Inniskea on The Oa, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148397_fe813adf_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a><br />
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Beinn Mhòr (Big Mountain) is one of Islay's seven marilyns and is particularly impressive when viewed from the sea.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148407" target="_blank" title="NR2940 : Beinn Mhòr, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2940 : Beinn Mhòr, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148407_eea6d661_120x120.jpg" width="82" height="120" /></a><br />
It is also significant in that it is adorned by one of Islay's 35 trigpoints (trigpoints being prominent in my mind on this day). Whilst it was interesting and exciting to view all of the island from a different angle today, there were some parts which I was particularly keen to see. Dùn Athad was one of them. It is barely accessible from the land and makes a very impressive ancient fort.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148418" target="_blank" title="NR2840 : Dùn Athad and Beinn Mhòr, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2840 : Dùn Athad and Beinn Mhòr, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148418_f72d1f45_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a><br />
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The American Monument, which marks the sinking in 1918 of two American ships - the Tuscania and the Otranto, is a popular destination for tourists, being only a short walk from the RSPB car park at Upper Killeyan. I had been several times, but viewing it from the sea certainly helped me appreciate the treacherous nature of this coastline. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148423" target="_blank" title="NR2641 : Cliffs of the Mull of Oa viewed from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2641 : Cliffs of the Mull of Oa viewed from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148423_d1e9a993_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a><br />
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A small rock barely visible above the water was all I could photograph for NR2642, although it meant the opportunity to photograph the beautifully colourful and striated rocks of the cliff-face in the next gridsquare. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148448" target="_blank" title="NR2642 : Rocks near Rubha na Leacan Bànaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2642 : Rocks near Rubha na Leacan Bànaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148448_1d0818e8_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <br />
I have viewed the shapely sea stacks at Lower Killeyan many times from the land and admired the shags which often make use of these rocks to stand and dry out their wings. This was the first time I'd seen them close up, though and they have beautiful quartzite veins running through them. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148468" target="_blank" title="NR2743 : Eileanan Mòra, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2743 : Eileanan Mòra, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148468_a225081c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
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On the north side of the Oa I managed an undramatic photo of NR2745 <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148479" target="_blank" title="NR2745 : Coastal scenery on The Oa, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2745 : Coastal scenery on The Oa, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/84/4148479_a8d88163_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
before we approached Soldier's Rock, great bastion of the northern cliffs of The Oa peninsula, and another feature I had seen many times from the land. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150994" target="_blank" title="NR2947 : Soldier's Rock from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2947 : Soldier's Rock from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150994_f4a1c62e_120x120.jpg" width="107" height="120" /></a> <br />
What happened next was a wonderful surprise for everyone (except Gus!) We were going to explore the sea caves beside the spectacular sea stack! Wow! I was beside myself with excitement, as were all but one of the passengers, including our oldest member at 87! A fishing break for some, whilst the rest of us went into the cave.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150998" target="_blank" title="NR2947 : Cave beneath Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2947 : Cave beneath Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150998_3d4cbdd2_120x120.jpg" width="107" height="120" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151002" target="_blank" title="NR2947 : Natural arch and cave, Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2947 : Natural arch and cave, Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151002_555523a1_120x120.jpg" width="102" height="120" /></a><br />
This is one of Islay's most beautiful gridsquares, having many features to photograph within it, including this not-so-spectacular-today waterfall.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151005" target="_blank" title="NR2947 : Waterfall at Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2947 : Waterfall at Soldier's Rock, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151005_dff7cfa7_120x120.jpg" width="89" height="120" /></a><br />
Looking back from inside the cave provided a rare opportunity to photograph the great Soldier's Rock from a different angle.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151009" target="_blank" title="NR2947 : Soldier's Rock from inside the cave, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2947 : Soldier's Rock from inside the cave, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151009_40f4257b_120x120.jpg" width="101" height="120" /></a><br />
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With grassy swards running down to angular promontories and rocky islets just off shore, this coastline is truly breathtaking. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151019" target="_blank" title="NR2742 : Small islets off the Oa, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR2742 : Small islets off the Oa, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151019_fb2d491e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151025" target="_blank" title="NR2643 : Rocky islets near Rubha Dubh, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR2643 : Rocky islets near Rubha Dubh, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151025_1442ff6b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a><br />
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It was only afterwards, when sharing photos and comparing our GPS routes, that I realised my boyfriend Paul had saved the day by grabbing some of the photo opportunities I'd missed - (despite careful marking of the map beforehand!)I was very grateful to him for some of these photos - when would I next get an opportunity like this?!<br />
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Once round The Oa, we cut across Loch Indaal to the south end of the Rinns peninsula where the sun shone so brilliantly you could be forgiven for thinking we were in tropical waters! The fishing villages of Port Wemyss <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4149214" target="_blank" title="NR1651 : Port Wemyss from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1651 : Port Wemyss from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/92/4149214_5aca9f3b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <br />
and Portnahaven <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4149215" target="_blank" title="NR1652 : Portnahaven, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1652 : Portnahaven, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/92/4149215_c2b85d9a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a> <br />
are less than half a mile apart, but villagers from both villages are very insistent on maintaining the distinction between the two! More so in days of yore, I believe.<br />
<br />
Caolas nan Gall, <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151035" target="_blank" title="NR1651 : Caolas nan Gall, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR1651 : Caolas nan Gall, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151035_1e8137eb_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a> <br />
between Orsay and Eilean Mhic Coinnich has a potentially interesting history. 'Gall' translates as 'Foreigner'. I wonder whether immigrants used this secluded passage on their way across the Atlantic or the Irish Sea. Eilean MhicCoinnich or McKenzie's Island was the location for my first and only sighting of the rare raptor, the Gyr Falcon a few years ago. Although not a new square as Portnahaven village is also situated within it, it was a new photo opportunity, and one I wasn't going to miss.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4149217" target="_blank" title="NR1652 : Eilean Mhic Coinnich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1652 : Eilean Mhic Coinnich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/92/4149217_3a46d30d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <br />
<br />
After our trip I was mad at myself for not having noticed our entry into NR1552 and had to be content with a supplemental image of Sgeiran Dubh' (Black Rocks) from NR1652. How could I have missed that?! It was interesting to view, from the sea, the world's first commerical wave power device to be connected to the national grid - Islay (LIMPET).<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4149229" target="_blank" title="NR1553 : Wave Generator (LIMPET), Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1553 : Wave Generator (LIMPET), Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/92/4149229_bc9e569b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="86" /></a><br />
Also to view Frenchman's Rocks from a much closer perspective.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150078" target="_blank" title="NR1553 : Frenchman's Rocks by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1553 : Frenchman's Rocks by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/00/4150078_4a6eaa7d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="74" /></a> <br />
I'd often viewed these from the Rinns when watching the passage of sea birds in the autumn. Apparently they are called 'Frenchman's Rocks' after a French vessel which was wrecked here.<br />
<br />
Lossit Point just dips into NR1656, so I was especially glad to bag a 'First' for this gridsquare, before heading north and pausing for more fishing around this area. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150093" target="_blank" title="NR1656 : Lossit Point, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1656 : Lossit Point, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/00/4150093_464d23be_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a> <br />
Beinn Ghlas (Grey Mountain) brought back memories of a couple of years before when I'd slid down a slope to gain NR1758, a new square for me. Viewed from the sea, the 'mountain' is much more attractive and the grassy slopes much greener than on my last visit. It was also interesting to see the caves, not visible from the landward side.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150107" target="_blank" title="NR1758 : Beinn Ghlas, caves and coastline, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1758 : Beinn Ghlas, caves and coastline, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/01/4150107_7785b05d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="89" /></a><br />
<br />
Eilean an Tannas-sgeir is the only bit of land within NR1863 and it was particularly satisfying to gain a 'First' point for this square.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4148358" target="_blank" title="NR1863 : Eilean an Tannais-sgeir, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1863 : Eilean an Tannais-sgeir, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/14/83/4148358_77fb4b63_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="89" /></a><br />
NR1865 is another gridsquare with only a tiny piece of land in it - Reidh a' Bhuirg (level ground of the fortress). The 'fortress' in question lies within NR1964. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150290" target="_blank" title="NR1865 : Reidh a' Bhuirg, near Coul Point, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR1865 : Reidh a' Bhuirg, near Coul Point, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/02/4150290_0026da77_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a><br />
Another fortress, Dun Bheolain, also juts out into the sea in NR2069. It is a place I have been to on many occasions, but never had I viewed it from this angle before.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150295" target="_blank" title="NR2069 : Dun Bheolain from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2069 : Dun Bheolain from the sea, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/02/4150295_0f696462_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="82" /></a><br />
<br />
This west, Atlantic coast of the island, is my favourite part of Islay's coastline. It is so rugged, wild and uninviting. It was wonderful to anticipate views of places I had walked to many times. Viewing them from a seaward perspective added to their fascination and majesty. Sanaig rocks looked incredibly impressive from this angle - five mighty buttresses.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150299" target="_blank" title="NR2171 : Sanaig Rocks viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2171 : Sanaig Rocks viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/02/4150299_615841dd_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150300" target="_blank" title="NR2171 : Sanaig Rocks viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2171 : Sanaig Rocks viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150300_bda4cd4f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="82" /></a><br />
<br />
No part of the trip excited me as much as the prospect of setting foot on Nave Island - my most coveted trigpoint destination. I had viewed this small patch of land longingly many, many times over my ten years on Islay and kept pinching myself during the boat trip to believe I was finally going to achieve my dream. As the island approached, my excitement levels increased.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150301" target="_blank" title="NR2876 : The northern side of Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2876 : The northern side of Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150301_efa43b0d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150305" target="_blank" title="NR2976 : Nave Island from the north, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2976 : Nave Island from the north, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150305_fdb0e976_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="75" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150309" target="_blank" title="NR2976 : Nave Island from the north-east, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2976 : Nave Island from the north-east, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150309_ca96b5a7_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="60" /></a><br />
I could hardly believe our luck as our vessel drew close to Port na h-Eaglaise - 'Port of the church'. The sun was shining brilliantly. The church is thought to have been founded by a disciple of St Columbus. Grey Seals were swimming close by and we cast them a few sprats for our entertainment.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150312" target="_blank" title="NR2975 : Port na h-Eaglaise, Nave Island by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2975 : Port na h-Eaglaise, Nave Island by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150312_00c23147_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
<br />
At last I was ashore and ran up to the old chapel/kiln.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150317" target="_blank" title="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150317_12db632f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
Any fears of having built up expectations too high were unfounded. This place has a beauty and magic of its own. Ungrazed, the land makes for tough walking, and Sloc na Maoile (Gully of the Rounded Hill), makes accessing the trigpoint even more difficult.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150333" target="_blank" title="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2975 : Chapel, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150333_edef7caf_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="59" /></a><br />
Rarely have I felt as exhilarated as I did on reaching the trigpoint - the culmination of a ten year quest - to visit every one of Islay's 35 trigpoints.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150322" target="_blank" title="NR2976 : Nave Island trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2976 : Nave Island trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150322_a66b6f0d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a><br />
As one by one the other members of the boat trip came to join us, I stood atop the trigpoint and opened the bottle of bubbly to celebrate. Then I cut the much 'admired' celebratory cake (complete with a 'life-like' replica of the trigpoint!) and took a self-timer photograph. When was the last time fourteen people had stood here? I wondered. It was one very special moment of one incredibly special day.<br />
<br />
All that was left to do now was barbecue our catch (delicious), paddle (refreshing) and gain my fourth and final gridsquare of this tiny island<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150327" target="_blank" title="NR2875 : Shingle beach, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR2875 : Shingle beach, Nave Island, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/03/4150327_820f7293_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> - satisfying.<br />
<br />
Back on board we headed north for the last time. The 3 mile stretch of Traigh Baile Aonghais looked very distant and I recalled my walk along that beach to gain gridsquares on a similarly beautiful day last autumn. Further north the landmark of Mala Bholsa came into view.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150543" target="_blank" title="NR3777 : Mala Bholsa, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR3777 : Mala Bholsa, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150543_904b48e4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a><br />
This rounded hill of Bolsa is a familiar landmark and home to another trigpoint. One I have only visited once in fact, despite having walked this way many times. I think by the time you've trudged all those weary miles north, the last thing you feel like doing is prolonging the agony by climbing a gratuitous hill. Excuses, excuses, maybe another time!<br />
<br />
It was interesting to view Bolsa's famous caves from the sea as we slowly passed them by. Did they all have a story to tell? They aren't all named on the map.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150552" target="_blank" title="NR4079 : View of Islay's northern coast from the sea by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4079 : View of Islay's northern coast from the sea by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150552_d2881c5a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="75" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150567" target="_blank" title="NR4179 : One of the Bolsa caves, viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4179 : One of the Bolsa caves, viewed from the sea by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150567_aa05ca6e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="89" /></a><br />
<br />
I looked out for the Post Rocks which lie between the north coast of Islay and Colonsay. Funnily enough I've viewed them better from the land than I did that day from the sea. I think height is an advantage.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150531" target="_blank" title="NR4079 : Post Rocks, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR4079 : Post Rocks, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150531_c2080f7b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a><br />
<br />
Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse is another of my favourite places on Islay.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150578" target="_blank" title="NR4279 : Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse with the Paps of Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4279 : Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse with the Paps of Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150578_89ffb129_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
There is a trigpoint near by. One I have visited I think twice. It's really not worth a visit, to be honest; the coastline and lighthouse make for much more interesting viewing.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150592" target="_blank" title="NR4279 : Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4279 : Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150592_d4202683_120x120.jpg" width="115" height="120" /></a><br />
Constructed between 1857 and 1859 by David and Thomas Stevenson, this beautiful and elegant white tower lies within the grounds of a private home and is another familiar landmark, viewable even from Port Askaig, about 6 miles south.<br />
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It felt like we were on the homeward leg now we'd turned the corner onto Islay's east coast. Maybe because, try as I might, I can't find the same affinity with this stretch of coastline. Perhaps it's because of its proximity to other land (Jura) and the narrow stretch of water between the two (the Sound of Islay) just doesn't have the same allure as the mighty Atlantic on the other side.<br />
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There was still plenty to see, however - the two distilleries of Bunnahabahin<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150598" target="_blank" title="NR4273 : Bunnahabhain Distillery viewed from the sea, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR4273 : Bunnahabhain Distillery viewed from the sea, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/05/4150598_684f5730_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="92" /></a><br />
and Caol Ila<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150604" target="_blank" title="NR4270 : Caol Ila Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4270 : Caol Ila Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/06/4150604_f55497e4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="61" /></a><br />
<br />
before reaching the quiet and sheltered harbour of Port Askaig. It is here that the ferries are often diverted in inclement weather. The ever-present Jura ferry enhances the attractiveness of this small port.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150665" target="_blank" title="NR4369 : Port Askaig with the Jura ferry by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4369 : Port Askaig with the Jura ferry by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/06/4150665_dfda0770_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
<br />
Carraig Mhòr is a tiny lighthouse situated just south of 'the Port' as it is known locally.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4151056" target="_blank" title="NR4368 : Lighthouse at Carraig Mhòr, Islay by Paul Dexter"><img alt="NR4368 : Lighthouse at Carraig Mhòr, Islay by Paul Dexter" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/10/4151056_09cf3bd4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="91" /></a><br />
It is difficult to walk the coastline south of here. I have done it only once, on my perambulation of Islay. The experience was such that I have not wanted to repeat it, although I know others have, with not quite as terrifying results. So what did I do wrong? <br />
<br />
An Cladach (the stony beach) bothy is viewed from the sea many more times than it is from the land, although perhaps not everyone knows it. You have to be on deck on the ferry and notice the often glinting roof of this tiny primitive abode before raising your binoculars (if you have them) to confirm it surely can't be, but yes it is, a building on this remote stretch of coastline.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150673" target="_blank" title="NR4362 : An Cladach bothy, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4362 : An Cladach bothy, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/06/4150673_918ad707_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="96" /></a><br />
<br />
It is in fact a small bothy owned and beautifully maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association, and well worth a visit. It brought back many memories of cosy nights spent there as we motored past today.<br />
<br />
McArthur's Head is another Stevenson lighthouse, constructed in 1861. It is another landmark which is more often admired from the sea than by land, although it is certainly worth the difficult walk to view it from the land.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150678" target="_blank" title="NR4659 : McArthur's Head lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4659 : McArthur's Head lighthouse, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/06/4150678_8e0e9be0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="120" /></a><br />
<br />
There was quite a gap now before I 'needed' another gridsquare. There was a whole bunch of squares which I'd either never attempted to access before or had tried and failed. The ground is difficult to cover on this section and I knew it would be much easier by sea. I therefore hoped we would set 'foot' on as many of the gridsquares as possible and looked anxiously at Paul's memory map GPS to see which line of travel we would take, trying to predict which squares I'd be successful in 'ticking off'.<br />
<br />
Sgeir Phlocach and Rubh' a' Bhealaich Ghaoith - sturdy (?) Rock and Point/promontory of the windy bealach was the only feature to jut into NR4755<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150699" target="_blank" title="NR4755 : Sgeir Phlocach and Rubh' a' Bhealaich Ghaoith, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4755 : Sgeir Phlocach and Rubh' a' Bhealaich Ghaoith, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/06/4150699_afe6ede0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a><br />
but NR4752 has even less land.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150717" target="_blank" title="NR4752 : Stac na Faoilinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4752 : Stac na Faoilinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/07/4150717_1140a139_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="76" /></a><br />
<br />
Glas Uig is a much-visited site.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150728" target="_blank" title="NR4751 : Glas Uig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4751 : Glas Uig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/07/4150728_6cabcffc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150731" target="_blank" title="NR4751 : Glas Uig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4751 : Glas Uig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/07/4150731_15489e31_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a><br />
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Apparently German U-boats used to hide in this sheltered harbour during the Second World War whilst the crew went ashore to steal sheep.<br />
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Ardmore Point sticks well out into NR4750 and is the location of a trigpoint I have only visited once, but would like to revisit.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1749971" target="_blank" title="NR4750 : Ardmore Trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4750 : Ardmore Trigpoint, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/74/99/1749971_cfa3efc6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> (Not taken on this trip.)<br />
<br />
Bordering two gridsquares is Sgeir a' Ghaidhil.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150805" target="_blank" title="NR4750 : Sgeir a' Ghaidhil, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4750 : Sgeir a' Ghaidhil, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150805_24544912_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="67" /></a><br />
<br />
I must have blinked whilst we motored through the next gridsquare and missed an opportunity to gain a geograph for NR4749. To make this even more maddening, this is a gridsquare I ventured into many years ago, before my Geograph days. I was taken on a boat trip round Eilean a' Chuirn and could kick myself that I no longer have any photos of this inaccessible island with its diminutive lighthouse. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150737" target="_blank" title="NR4749 : Eilean a' Chuirn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4749 : Eilean a' Chuirn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/07/4150737_27790a88_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="56" /></a><br />
<br />
We were now in Common Seals water. Generally speaking it is Grey Seals that frequent the Atlantic waters and Common Seals that are found on this eastern coastline of Islay. We were rewarded today by excellent views of these marine mammals as they basked on Sgeir nam Ban.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150818" target="_blank" title="NR4649 : Common Seals on Sgeir nam Ban, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4649 : Common Seals on Sgeir nam Ban, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150818_bb6dd8b3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="93" /></a><br />
<br />
This coastline is dotted with many islets, some of which are unnamed on the map,<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150824" target="_blank" title="NR4649 : Small islets on Islay's eastern coast by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4649 : Small islets on Islay's eastern coast by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150824_1a03205a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
whilst Eilean Craobhach is one of the bigger islands; its name suggests it was once much more wooded.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150829" target="_blank" title="NR4649 : Eilean Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4649 : Eilean Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150829_fb415de3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a><br />
<br />
Eilean nan Gamhna effectively hides the larger Eilean Bhride (Island of the Bride)<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150857" target="_blank" title="NR4548 : Eilean nan Gamhna and Eilean Bhrìde, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4548 : Eilean nan Gamhna and Eilean Bhrìde, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150857_5cdfff8e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="74" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150900" target="_blank" title="NR4548 : Common Seals on Eilean nan Gamhna, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4548 : Common Seals on Eilean nan Gamhna, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150900_70dc84df_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="79" /></a><br />
<br />
A careful eye was constantly on the GPS at this stage and I was delighted to be gaining so many new gridsquares.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150904" target="_blank" title="NR4547 : Ceann nan Sgeirean, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4547 : Ceann nan Sgeirean, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150904_e578d861_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="71" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150844" target="_blank" title="NR4548 : Plod Sgeirean and Cnoc Rhaonastil by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4548 : Plod Sgeirean and Cnoc Rhaonastil by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/08/4150844_aa36a157_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="62" /></a><br />
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I managed to miss Garbh Sgeir Mor (we had been on the boat for a long time and I was getting tired and cold!) Garbh Sgeir Bheag is mis-spelt on the Explorer Map (Grabh). I wonder if this is one of their deliberate 'mistakes' to discourage plagiarism.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150914" target="_blank" title="NR4447 : Garbh Sgeir Beag, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4447 : Garbh Sgeir Beag, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150914_4ec2a954_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="92" /></a><br />
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Carraig an t-Sluic (Rock of the pit) is not named on the Explorer Map. I found its name by zooming in on Geograph's excellent zoomable map feature.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150921" target="_blank" title="NR4346 : Carraig an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4346 : Carraig an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150921_adaed80d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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Two more rocks that lie off this multi-islet stretch of coastline are Sgeir Sgleàta and Corr Sgeir (Slate Rock and Extraordinary Rock).<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150934" target="_blank" title="NR4345 : Sgeir Sgleàta and Corr Sgeir, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4345 : Sgeir Sgleàta and Corr Sgeir, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150934_5dba7074_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a><br />
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Others are not named.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150940" target="_blank" title="NR4345 : Islets off the south-eastern coast of Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4345 : Islets off the south-eastern coast of Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150940_05ccce5c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150947" target="_blank" title="NR4345 : Rocky Islets off the south-eastern coast of Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4345 : Rocky Islets off the south-eastern coast of Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150947_49148f5c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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Our wonderful trip was drawing to a close and, as a reminder of this sad fact, we watched the MV Finlaggan sail towards Port Ellen as the time approached 2000 hours.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150952" target="_blank" title="NR4245 : The MV Finlaggan approaches Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4245 : The MV Finlaggan approaches Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150952_cfe967bc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="88" /></a><br />
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Iseanach Mòr was a baffling name for an island. I've decided to translate it as 'Big Island abounding in chickens' - until someone comes up with a better translation!<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150960" target="_blank" title="NR4245 : Iseanach Mòr, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4245 : Iseanach Mòr, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150960_6cfa54fe_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="76" /></a><br />
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When Islay's three south-eastern distilleries come into view you know you are nearly home.<br />
Ardbeg <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150964" target="_blank" title="NR4146 : Ardbeg Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4146 : Ardbeg Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150964_2bc77c68_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="92" /></a>, Lagavulin <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150966" target="_blank" title="NR4045 : Lagavulin Distillery and Dunyvaig Castle, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4045 : Lagavulin Distillery and Dunyvaig Castle, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150966_e79a8eb5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="68" /></a> and Laphroaig <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150974" target="_blank" title="NR3845 : Laphroaig Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3845 : Laphroaig Distillery, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150974_19bc6150_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="82" /></a>.<br />
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Having said that, spotting the telephone exchange near Laphroaig brought back memories of my first and only walk along that coastline - full of ticks, falls, walls, bracken and fear!<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1741823" target="_blank" title="NR3944 : BT exchange near Laphroaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3944 : BT exchange near Laphroaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/74/18/1741823_d3c48892_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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Dunyvaig Castle is a much more attractive and accessible place to visit with an interesting history<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150967" target="_blank" title="NR4045 : Dunyvaig Castle, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4045 : Dunyvaig Castle, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150967_d01a99c5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="94" /></a>. See <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/38002/details/islay+dunyvaig+castle/" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/38002/details/islay+dunyvaig+castle/">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span><br />
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The uninhabited island of Texa covers three gridsquares as I discovered on my WalkIslay trip there a few years ago when I managed to bag another much-coveted trigpoint. Today, however, we were only to pass through the northernmost of its squares<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150968" target="_blank" title="NR3944 : Texa's north coastline, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3944 : Texa's north coastline, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150968_c703832b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="59" /></a><br />
whilst gaining a distant glimpse of the derelict chapel there.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150970" target="_blank" title="NR3943 : Distant view of the ruined chapel on Texa, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3943 : Distant view of the ruined chapel on Texa, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150970_e1ba52f7_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="97" /></a><br />
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As we rounded the corner into Port Ellen, Gus pointed out a painted swan on the rocks at The Ard. "It's been there for many, many decades," he said.<br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150979" target="_blank" title="NR3644 : The Ard and harbour, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3644 : The Ard and harbour, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150979_ab952a87_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="93" /></a><br />
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As we approached the pier at Port Ellen, and our final destination for the day, I was feeling more content and exhilarated than I have done in a long time. <br />
<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/4150982" target="_blank" title="NR3645 : Approaching Port Ellen, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3645 : Approaching Port Ellen, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/04/15/09/4150982_37ee6b2a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="76" /></a><br />
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Later I did some calculations. I'd bagged one trigpoint, passed five lighthouses, gained 57 geographs (of which 3 were 'Firsts', 13 'Seconds, and 2 'Thirds'), 16 Tpoints and 22 Supplementals. More importantly I'd been in the company of 13 wonderful people and my thanks and gratitude are extended to Sandy Taylor for inviting us on this trip; Paul, for his technological expertise and equipment and patience at my persistent 'Are we in a new square yet?' questioning and Gus and Alex for this wonderful experienced and expertly-led trip - definitely a trip of a lifetime.<br />
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Islay Sea Adventures - <span class="nowrap"><a title="https://www.facebook.com/IslayStormCharters" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="https://www.facebook.com/IslayStormCharters">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span><br />
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text/html2014-03-07T13:45:25+00:00Becky Williamson55.679463865366 -6.0976199535521Tighnaspeur - a circular walk
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/202
This was to be quite a significant walk for me as it involved completing my final grid square in the eastern block of the island. Furthermore, it was a 'green' gridsquare - and little wonder! Not only is it situated in one of the remotest parts of the island, but it has nothing within its 1 km square to entice the everyday walker. The Abhainn Staoin (bending/crooked river) flows diagonally NW to SE, almost dividing NR 4252 in half, but otherwise there is nothing but contours and a small moorland pool in this gridsquare.<br />
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Undaunted by the prospect of 7 miles of tough walking, and spurred on by the thought of attaining my boggy goal, I chose the only dry, sunny day in a week of rain and hail to drive to Kintour, my walk's beginning. Now usually when embarking on a walk like this, anyone I meet at the start (and, to be honest, it's unusual to meet anyone on such occasions), asks where I'm going and then gasps in horror at the incredulity of it - "but it'll be so wet!" is the usual reply. And I nod and set off, disheartened before the walk's even begun. Today, however, I met two farmworkers who were actually almost envious of my having a whole day to walk like this. "Lovely day for it," the gamekeeper remarked as I took my first photo. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873904" target="_blank" title="NR4551 : Farm track, Kintour by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4551 : Farm track, Kintour by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873904_48c5e155_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I was in the mood for taking lots of photos; it had been so long since my last proper geograph walk. The farmland here is incredibly flooded - in some ways it was just as difficult walking across 'ice-rink' fields like this <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873474" target="_blank" title="NR4551 : Flooded Kintour farmland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4551 : Flooded Kintour farmland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873474_a09da739_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> as it was walking across the boggy moorland. The ATV track runs parallel to the Kintour River for a while, leading through a couple of gates before heading into native woodland. I looked west to the raised hillocks - duns and forts which form a spine across this eastern part of the island <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873404" target="_blank" title="NR4551 : Islay's backbone of duns and forts by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4551 : Islay's backbone of duns and forts by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873404_1085d499_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873491" target="_blank" title="NR4552 : Near Creagfinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4552 : Near Creagfinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873491_0b0b6017_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> Soon I'd be moving from the bright green of the fields to the monotonous and drab brown of the moorland beyond.<br />
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To do this I had to walk through the trees, still wearing their winter dress, and past Cnoc Dhota (hillock of the stupid fellow, possibly) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873887" target="_blank" title="NR4552 : Track from Kintour to Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4552 : Track from Kintour to Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873887_f0043e62_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873368" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/33/3873368_a26d122f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> I was very conscious that I had to cross the Kintour River, which was in full spate, and was not sure where I was going to be able to do this, having shunned the only bridge I knew was along this river. It's quite a climb to the northern edge of the woodland, but it is quite a welcome scene once you emerge from the darkness of the spindly trees <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873514" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Emerging from woodland at Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Emerging from woodland at Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873514_2d651ea5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873899" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Emerging from the woodland at Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Emerging from the woodland at Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873899_f1d55be3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="78" /></a>.<br />
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I was now heading directly west, or trying to, and getting more anxious about crossing the fast-flowing Kintour River. In the distance I could make out a ruin,<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873891" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Moorland and scrubland north of Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Moorland and scrubland north of Cnoc Dhota, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873891_925a1b33_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> nestled beneath Dùnan an t-Soluis (Forts of the Light) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873684" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Dùnan an t-Soluis and Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Dùnan an t-Soluis and Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873684_b8a1c600_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873892" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Dùnan an t-Soluis and Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Dùnan an t-Soluis and Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873892_f5025b3d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and decided to head for these ruins. This was easier said than done as I walked along the north banks of the Kintour River, looking for a suitable place to cross <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873902" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Trying to cross the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Trying to cross the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873902_5e936c1d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873445" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Maze of Rivers near Kintour, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Maze of Rivers near Kintour, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873445_38099969_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873534" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Thinking about crossing the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Thinking about crossing the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873534_d76533e4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Finally, I placed one welly gingerly into the water, gained my balance against the strong current, discovered that the water wasn't quite at the top of my wellies and strode cautiously across the pebbly-bottomed river, using my pole to steady me. Now on the south banks of the river I took more photos, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873424" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Having finally crossed the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Having finally crossed the Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873424_d4519b89_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873539" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873539_97455dc6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873923" target="_blank" title="NR4452 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4452 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873923_d268097a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, before heading for the ruins <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873889" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Ruins near Dùnan an t-Soluis, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Ruins near Dùnan an t-Soluis, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873889_00b30d31_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. There are a few remains of erstwhile dwellings here, although I have been unable to find out anything about their history.<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873441" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Heather-covered ruins near Kintour by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Heather-covered ruins near Kintour by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873441_8c86148b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I paused here for a drink, conscious of the sound of the waterfall behind me and being drawn towards it.<br />
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Finding the small waterfall involved a tiny detour and it's debatable it was actually worth it! <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873925" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Small waterfall in Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Small waterfall in Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873925_8a304717_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>. If I'd been heading directly for Tighnaspeur now, I could have followed the Kintour River <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873662" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873662_af2e66a3_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> and everything would have been hunky-dory but no, I had to get into NR4252, which involved heading gratuitously north up some gratuitous contours <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873574" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Climbing the contours into the next square by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Climbing the contours into the next square by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873574_9545f4be_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The views across this russet moorland were spectacular though <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873895" target="_blank" title="NR4352 : Cloud, shadow and expanse of moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4352 : Cloud, shadow and expanse of moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873895_6fabd992_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> - a vast expanse of moorland which, if you didn't risk sinking into squelchy peat with every step you took, could be mistaken for the Islay equivalent of the Sahara Desert!<br />
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Trying to edge my way into the next square across the boggy moorland was exceptionally difficult and I was glad I was on my own. Anyone else would have chosen the much easier route, failing to understand my mission in all of this. Flushing Snipe (the only bird life around) I trod carefully from one tussocky lump to another, occasionally testing the depth of the surrounding moorland with my pole and seeing it disappear further than I wanted my leg to! Once in the grid square I made no attempt to venture further north <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3872580" target="_blank" title="NR4252 : Looking towards unnamed hill in exposed Islay moorland by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4252 : Looking towards unnamed hill in exposed Islay moorland by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/25/3872580_c91148ef_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I would head for the Abhainn Staoin and Tighnaspeur.<br />
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Which was actually much easier thought than achieved! Once more a river thwarted me - this time the Abhainn Staoin (Crooked or Bending River <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873906" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873906_3d85c08c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873912" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873912_68c14cea_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873896" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873896_3c0532ca_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873903" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873903_616e0d82_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873709" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/37/3873709_041f8d19_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>. These moorland rivers break up the monotony of the expansive moorland and are very pretty, often banked with scrubby woodland <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873900" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Looking for somewhere to cross the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Looking for somewhere to cross the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873900_54412673_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873482" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873482_7668ed99_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, but I hadn't to be enticed to follow its course. I didn't want to head too far south, certainly not as far as its confluence with the Kintour River, but I was forced to do so for a bit until I finally found a shallower part at which to cross - and a delightful little spot it was too <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873926" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Where I finally crossed the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Where I finally crossed the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873926_e138c037_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>.<br />
<br />
Not long after crossing the river and trying to follow a roughly south-west bearing, I happened upon a totally unexpected ruin <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873469" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Unmarked ruin near Abhainn Staoin by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Unmarked ruin near Abhainn Staoin by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873469_be898659_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I scrutinized the map, but, no, it definitely wasn't marked. Should I take another short detour to go and inspect this small ruin? I knew I'd regret it if I didn't so I tussock-to-tussocked across to the remains of its walls and decided here was as good a place as any to have lunch.<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873704" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Unmarked ruin near Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Unmarked ruin near Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/37/3873704_bfa6bc4b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> I love ruminating on what the purpose of such buildings once was, who used them and what difficulties and joys did they experience during the time this once purposeful building was used?<br />
<br />
Pondering too the unwelcome thought of treading the same ground at the height of the summer when the prolific bracken would be an added hindrance, I now followed a tributary of the Kintour and Staoin rivers, heading southwest <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873913" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Following the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Following the Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873913_be69b7bc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873909" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Abhainn Staoin, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873909_cbab3563_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. It seemed the best course to follow the river, and to try to find deer paths through the relentless moor grass <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873918" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Finding the tracks in exposed moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Finding the tracks in exposed moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873918_f9442b46_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873911" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Bogged down in moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Bogged down in moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873911_33a24fad_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I became quite disorientated here, expecting to approach Tighnaspeur from the north and not having the time or energy to study the map properly (the bog walking was exhausting and taking longer than I thought and I was due at work at 6 pm). Surrounded by boggy moorland there was no sign of my destination <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873565" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Moorland near Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Moorland near Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873565_a9be2fc1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873408" target="_blank" title="NR4251 : Approaching Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4251 : Approaching Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/34/3873408_1bd81344_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
<br />
I suddenly came upon a spot I recognised and realised my mistake. I could see the tree-topped chimney of my ruin 100 metres north of where I stood and I ran recklessly towards it (OK, maybe I moved up from first to 3rd gear!) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873931" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873931_e79e3331_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> Basking in sunshine with views across to Loch nan Clach and the sea beyond, this is an ideal location for a hide away. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819637" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/81/96/2819637_cc34c5f8_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="77" /></a> I'd love to be able to go inside and explore, but this renovated ruin is kept locked. It was tempting to linger, but the Co-op called (6pm start) and I knew it was a couple of hours walk back to the car.<br />
<br />
I headed straight for the ATV track and the collapsed bridge across the river <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873377" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : ATV track across boggy moorland near Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : ATV track across boggy moorland near Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/33/3873377_dc05d7ad_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>. I briefly greeted Loch nan Clach (Loch of the Stone) as I passed at some distance <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873677" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873677_1f525fe3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and looked back to Tighnaspeur (Sky Cottage), looking very indistinct amongst its surrounding camouflage. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873542" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Looking back to Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Looking back to Tighnaspeur, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873542_fdc07fd9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> Heading for the 'backbone' of forts via the well-defined (if boggy) ATV track, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873666" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Following the quad bike track back by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Following the quad bike track back by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873666_29c31fbe_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873894" target="_blank" title="NR4250 : Approaching the forts, near Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4250 : Approaching the forts, near Tighnaspeur and Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873894_005ff3ba_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873698" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Track near fort near Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Track near fort near Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873698_50a9a631_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, I was on the constant look out for anything that moved. This is not a good walk if you want to see lots of wildlife, but there are a few things you can almost predictably see: Ravens, Red Deer and Snipe. At the beginning of the walk, through the woodland I had seen tits and finches, but now I was looking for something much bigger - the King of the Air.<br />
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I was not disappointed; just as I reached one of the forts, a Golden Eagle flew directly overhead <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873919" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Fort near Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Fort near Loch nan Clach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873919_28e5103b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I watched it for a few minutes - undeterred by my meanly presence it soared above me and I was envious of its speed and mastery. Humbled, I paused to take yet more photos of this seldom-viewed eastern hinterland <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873888" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Valleys and hills in eastern hinterland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Valleys and hills in eastern hinterland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873888_bb87e35f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> before continuing my earth bound way, weary and heavy laden. Heading east towards the visible phone mast of Tallant and glad of this navigational aid, I walked between Leac Eìdhne and An Dùn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873714" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Faint moorland track between Leac Eìdhne and An Dùn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Faint moorland track between Leac Eìdhne and An Dùn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/37/3873714_4e7f2b07_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>. As I cleared the contours of An Dùn, the shimmering waters of Loch Carn a' Mhaoil came into view <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873552" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Loch Carn a' Mhaoil. Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Loch Carn a' Mhaoil. Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873552_d14b2619_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. For some reason this is one of my favourite lochs on the island. I have no idea why. I had not time to linger, however, and left it basking in sunshine, with its stegosaurus-like backbone of forts and duns lying prominent to its northwest <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873523" target="_blank" title="NR4351 : Loch Carn a' Mhaoil and An Dùn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4351 : Loch Carn a' Mhaoil and An Dùn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873523_844334f6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
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I now felt as if I was on the homeward leg of my long walk. Tired though I was, I took time to notice the blue sky and cirrus cloud above me <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873500" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : Looking back to the duns near Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : Looking back to the duns near Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873500_57735886_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, crowning Beinn Bheigier <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873399" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : Cirrus Cloud above Beinn Bheigier, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : Cirrus Cloud above Beinn Bheigier, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/33/3873399_92a0d93c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873907" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : Losing the ATV track - again! by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : Losing the ATV track - again! by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873907_dfa89857_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. A towering cumulonimbus cloud lay to my north, above the Stegosaurus backbone of duns <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873672" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : The land of the duns, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : The land of the duns, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873672_e374bc8a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I had been hailed upon already by such clouds; the onslaughts being heavy, but brief and I reveled in this variety of weather - extreme or not.<br />
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Still stopping regularly to record my walk in photos, I plodded on, following the boggy ATV track as closely as possible. Most times it was more flooded than the surrounding moorland <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873922" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : Boggy moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : Boggy moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873922_60fc629f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873546" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : ATV Track back to Tallant Farm, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : ATV Track back to Tallant Farm, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/35/3873546_2a2ed69f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, but occasionally it made for easier walking <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873917" target="_blank" title="NR4451 : Track back to Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4451 : Track back to Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873917_1327282d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Dipping briefly (and unintentionally) into NR4450 <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873692" target="_blank" title="NR4450 : Back the way I've come by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4450 : Back the way I've come by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/36/3873692_8b1b4129_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, I was soon looking across to Loch Tallant <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873898" target="_blank" title="NR4550 : Loch Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4550 : Loch Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/38/3873898_54fb473d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and then the gamekeeper's house at Tallant itself <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873928" target="_blank" title="NR4550 : Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4550 : Tallant, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873928_6bf460e0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
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Glad to be back on the road, I only had about half a mile left of my 7.1 walk - but it seemed a long half a mile! The fields here were still showing signs of the heavy rainfall we've experienced this winter <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873915" target="_blank" title="NR4551 : Flooded fields, Kintour, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4551 : Flooded fields, Kintour, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/39/3873915_f13bf9d1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, although nothing like that of further south. As my car came within sight, I paused at the bridge at Kintour Farm to take my last photo - the benign-looking Kintour River. I'd virtually traced its twists and turns to its source near Tighnaspeur. It was satisfying now, at the end of my journey, to be rejoining the river near its own journey's end <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3873372" target="_blank" title="NR4551 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4551 : Kintour River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/87/33/3873372_5d677c4b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.text/html2013-05-30T21:00:24+00:00Becky Williamson55.761182035624 -6.074299226425Glas Bheinn's spurs
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/194
OK, so I'd just learnt this new term 'spur' and was keen to get as much usage out of it as possible; plus there were several gridsquares I wanted to bag in the area and the forecast for the day looked good. Not having been able to persuade any friends to come a walk with me (they've all grown wise to what that term means!), and knowing I'd be doing a lot of gratuitous walking, I set off solo on what was to be a long day's walk. I'd come prepared with enough food for an army.<br />
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Reluctantly I'd curtailed my even more mammoth walk, which was to include a stop at the bothy on the Sound of Islay and changed my starting point from Kynagarry to Storakaig. To be honest, both approaches have become rather tedious to me; I hate to admit it, but there you go. I'd walked from Kynagarry more frequently than Storakaig so decided on the latter on this occasion.<br />
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With cloud just swirling round the top of my destination I set off, fully laden and went through the gate just before reaching the gamekeeper's cottage at Storakaig. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2038933" target="_blank" title="NR4061 : Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4061 : Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/03/89/2038933_d5ebeb49_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="90" /></a>. Cattle, not sheep, surrounded the sheep dip just south of the cottage <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887558" target="_blank" title="NR4061 : Sheep Dip, Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4061 : Sheep Dip, Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/75/2887558_dfe1e725_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. From now it's a case of plodding across boggy moorland <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887559" target="_blank" title="NR4060 : Boggy moorland south of Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4060 : Boggy moorland south of Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/75/2887559_210a9073_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> to the corner of the fence west of Maol a' Bharra <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887562" target="_blank" title="NR4060 : Corner of fence near Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4060 : Corner of fence near Storakaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/75/2887562_e099a315_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. This is the easiest place to cross. Continuing south I reached the Allt Craobhach <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887566" target="_blank" title="NR4160 : Allt Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4160 : Allt Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/75/2887566_e475c123_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887913" target="_blank" title="NR4260 : Allt Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4260 : Allt Craobhach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/79/2887913_704e6b8f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> (Wooded Burn) which I was to follow as far as the wall between Sgorr nam Faoileann and Glas Bheinn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888009" target="_blank" title="NR4360 : Boundary Wall up Sgorr nam Faoileann, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4360 : Boundary Wall up Sgorr nam Faoileann, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/88/80/2888009_bf58add5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The ground was not as wet as it has been on previous occasions, for which I was grateful and I saw the first of many Green Hairstreak butterflies as I tramped across the moors.<br />
<br />
The wall has to be my favourite wall on the island - and that's saying something! Nowadays it seems so redundant, but presumably it once had a purpose, sufficient to warrant workmanship which is seldom seen today and I love thinking about that. Today, however, I viewed the wall with somewhat less exuberance, for I had to use it as a handrail into the next gridsquare and from there, climb to the north-eastern ridge. It looked a steep climb. From the wall's end I looked north <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484822" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : Wall between Glas Bheinn and Sgorr nam Faoileann, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : Wall between Glas Bheinn and Sgorr nam Faoileann, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484822_93f9fa96_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and then south and the route I must take <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484824" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : The north-eastern flanks of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : The north-eastern flanks of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484824_4ce21439_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="71" /></a>. This was the only part of the walk that I would do differently; it was a bit too steep for me. It was a short, steep stretch, though and soon I was on the ridge <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485110" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : The north-eastern ridge of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : The north-eastern ridge of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485110_2fb8b8fb_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
<br />
I decided, due to time, not to bother going to the summit itself. I'd been twice before and it would just extend my route unnecessarily. Also, it was very windy. So I paused to view the Sound of Islay and pay my respects to the cairn which, from the valley bottom, sits tantalisingly like a perched Golden Eagle at this northernmost spur <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484825" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : Small cairn on northernmost summit of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : Small cairn on northernmost summit of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484825_b46370e6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Then I skirted the head of Gleann Dubh to the middle one of Glas Bheinn's easterly spurs. From here good views are obtained of Coire Liunndrein. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485124" target="_blank" title="NR4358 : Coire Liunndrein, Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4358 : Coire Liunndrein, Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485124_560e5b54_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> I passed the moorland pool <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484817" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : Moorland pool near summit of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : Moorland pool near summit of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484817_15da6415_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484820" target="_blank" title="NR4359 : Moorland pool on western flanks of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4359 : Moorland pool on western flanks of Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484820_660d56f9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and entered the next square from where I took photos south towards Beinn Bheigier <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485140" target="_blank" title="NR4458 : Beinn Bheigier from one of Glas Bheinn's easterly spurs by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4458 : Beinn Bheigier from one of Glas Bheinn's easterly spurs by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485140_d3dbe595_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, north towards Beinn na Caillich and Sgorr nam Faoileann <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485117" target="_blank" title="NR4458 : Looking north from one of Glas Bheinn's easterly spurs, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4458 : Looking north from one of Glas Bheinn's easterly spurs, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485117_a06e81e1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, south-west towards the Sound of Islay <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484847" target="_blank" title="NR4458 : Gleann Coire Liunndreinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4458 : Gleann Coire Liunndreinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484847_c0fe15ad_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and west towards Glas Bheinn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484855" target="_blank" title="NR4458 : Glas Bheinn and the head of Gleann Coire Liunndrein, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4458 : Glas Bheinn and the head of Gleann Coire Liunndrein, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484855_47f7199e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
<br />
With the wind coming from the south-east I was in its full force as I made my way back across the head of Gleann Dubh to the next spur - the one I intended following to its end. From here <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484813" target="_blank" title="NR4459 : Glas Bheinn ridge, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4459 : Glas Bheinn ridge, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484813_e1f985dc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> I walked to the summit cairn of Beinn na Caillich, a summit which seems not to be able to make its mind up as to its exact location. The cairn is situated at the 300 m spot height <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485132" target="_blank" title="NR4459 : Summit cairn of Beinn na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4459 : Summit cairn of Beinn na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485132_df467d7b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, rather than the 308 m spot height.<br />
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I got the full blast of the wind at the bealach <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484812" target="_blank" title="NR4459 : Bealach, Beinn na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4459 : Bealach, Beinn na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484812_e6e1dd1b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> so quickly climbed to the next summit, the 'real' Beinn na Caillich which I have named Beinn na Caillich Mòr as it is not named on the map, but is bigger than either its eastern or western sister. I paused for lunch in the lee of a welcome crag, from where I could see the ripply Lochan na Caillich <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485137" target="_blank" title="NR4459 : Lochan na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4459 : Lochan na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485137_7f2813ba_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and then fought my way to the summit cairn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485127" target="_blank" title="NR4559 : Summit cairn of 'Beinn na Caillich Mòr', Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4559 : Summit cairn of 'Beinn na Caillich Mòr', Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485127_4a584056_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. <br />
<br />
The easiest way down to the valley was to follow the spur where the contour lines are further apart. I passed the small lochan again <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484837" target="_blank" title="NR4459 : Lochan na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4459 : Lochan na Caillich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484837_0ebe4912_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and entered a new grid square. The views from here are spectacular, across the Sound of Islay to the ubiquitous Paps.<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485106" target="_blank" title="NR4560 : Easterly spur of Glas Bheinn with the Sound of Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4560 : Easterly spur of Glas Bheinn with the Sound of Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485106_d80dc23d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> Looking west, it was easy to match the topography to the map <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484841" target="_blank" title="NR4560 : Head of Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4560 : Head of Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484841_9ebc4a20_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> with the U-shaped valley between Glas Bheinn and Sgorr nam Faoileann clearly visible <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484828" target="_blank" title="NR4560 : Looking up Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4560 : Looking up Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484828_cc609d91_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="69" /></a>. <br />
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Before the valley bottom, I headed west, wishing I could head instead for the coast, perhaps An Claddach bothy where I have spent many a happy hour. But time was against me, as were energy levels. Staying quite high, I walked through Gleann Choireadail, turning to watch the afternoon ferry wend its way up the Sound to Port Askaig <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485103" target="_blank" title="NR4460 : Gleann Choireadail with the Sound of Islay and the Islay ferry by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4460 : Gleann Choireadail with the Sound of Islay and the Islay ferry by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485103_469392a5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Gradually I descended to the many burns which run down into this valley, verdant with Rowan Trees <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485121" target="_blank" title="NR4460 : Tributary of Allt Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4460 : Tributary of Allt Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/51/3485121_343801ea_120x120.jpg" width="87" height="120" /></a>. Some of these burns are quite steep-sided and it takes some walking back and forth to find the best way across. Eventually I reached the 'proper' burn Allt Gleann Choireadail <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3485097" target="_blank" title="NR4460 : Allt Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4460 : Allt Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/50/3485097_663860d8_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and crossed it to the northern side of the valley on the lower flanks of Sgorr nam Faoileann.<br />
<br />
I turned for a last look down Gleann Choireadail, perhaps my favourite of Islay's glens <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484850" target="_blank" title="NR4360 : Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4360 : Gleann Choireadail, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484850_016b2eab_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, and to bid farewell to the massif of today, Glas Bheinn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3484829" target="_blank" title="NR4259 : Across the valley to Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4259 : Across the valley to Glas Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/48/48/3484829_edfe68b4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, before trudging onwards, telling myself I'd have another stop at the wall, but not before! The day had turned into a relative scorcher and I had regularly been stopping to either put on or take off layers. As anyone with a camera and heavy rucksack will testify, it's such a faff!<br />
<br />
I got ever so slightly 'lost' on my way back. In my eagerness to head north I did so too early instead of following the Allt Craobhach. I thus missed the easiest crossing point of the fence. On the plus side, I noticed a ruin I'd not seen before. This would have to wait for another visit, however. I'd been out for 8 and a half hours and covered 11 miles. My legs were to feel the effect of the walk the next day. As the familiar tree shrouded Storakaig came into view, though, I reflected that it had definitely been worth it.text/html2013-04-20T19:32:26+00:00Becky Williamson55.888756519807 -6.0236678298965Walk Islay 2013 - Ascent of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/193
It was the day we'd been waiting for all week, which doesn't sound like a long time, but in a week of unsettled weather with several walks having had to be modified or cancelled, the highlight of the week, the long awaited ascent of Jura's lowest Pap was anticipated with anxiety. Would the weather put paid to this eagerly anticipated event? The forecast had looked good for Friday all week, but often it changes at the last minute. I logged onto XC weather the night before and peered over my hand-covered eyes to dare to view the forecast. Bright sunshine all day and with winds no stronger than 7 mph, who cared what direction it was blowing from? Yippee!!!<br />
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This was the culmination of the 11th Walk Islay week, an annual event which up till now has been organized by the tireless Ian Brookes (of the Islay Bird blog) who is definitely retiring this year (after having threatened to do so for at least 4 years!)<br />
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We caught the first ferry of the day from Port Askaig at 08.30 and, watched our destination, still capped in early morning cloud, draw nearer <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419778" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from 'Eilean Dhiura' by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from 'Eilean Dhiura' by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/97/3419778_6dc9ebe5_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The first part of the walk was easy. Waving goodbye to the only other two passengers who drove off towards Craighouse, 22 intrepid walkers turned left onto the short stretch of road that leads to Inver Cottage where we were to meet our guide, Donald Ewen Darroch. We watched the Eilean Dhiura return to Islay <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419409" target="_blank" title="NR4369 : 'Eilean Dhiura' on its passage to Port Askaig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4369 : 'Eilean Dhiura' on its passage to Port Askaig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419409_d35911b2_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and so we were committed to whatever lay ahead.<br />
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Donald Ewen was there to meet us and welcome us to Jura. I turned back to cast one last glance at the island we'd just left behind <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418976" target="_blank" title="NR4471 : View across the Sound of Islay from near Inver, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4471 : View across the Sound of Islay from near Inver, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418976_59c7b325_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and then gave my full attention to what lay before - the now cloud free Paps of Jura <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419414" target="_blank" title="NR4471 : Looking towards Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from the hydro track, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4471 : Looking towards Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from the hydro track, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419414_c0a003b4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419014" target="_blank" title="NR4472 : Beinn a' Chaolais from near Cnocbreac, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4472 : Beinn a' Chaolais from near Cnocbreac, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/90/3419014_8b4752a1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="67" /></a>. En route we were told about the relatively new hydro electric works on this side of the island as we passed some of the buildings <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419395" target="_blank" title="NR4471 : New hydro works buildings near Inver, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4471 : New hydro works buildings near Inver, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419395_50bf2d62_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We then walked up to Cnocbreac, and what remains of a ruined village there <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419375" target="_blank" title="NR4473 : Part of the ruined village of Cnocbreac, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4473 : Part of the ruined village of Cnocbreac, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419375_09916411_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. After crossing the Abhainn a' Chnuic Bhric, we turned eastwards into what was now new territory for me. This road <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419342" target="_blank" title="NR4572 : Beginning the ascent of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4572 : Beginning the ascent of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419342_4a194e07_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> has been built for the hydro-electric works on the island which began a few years ago. I don't know enough about it to explain I'm afraid - I was always last to turn up as Donald Ewen was giving his little speeches!<br />
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As promised the day was almost totally cloud free and Beinn a' Chaolais stood waiting for us, and the ascent route was no more obvious now we were closer than it is from my house in Bowmore! <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419360" target="_blank" title="NR4672 : Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4672 : Beinn a' Chaolais and Beinn an Oir from track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419360_46553eb0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419367" target="_blank" title="NR4672 : Beinn a' Chaolais from the new hydro-electric track by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4672 : Beinn a' Chaolais from the new hydro-electric track by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419367_fb3ab6b4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We continued along this easy track <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419370" target="_blank" title="NR4672 : Looking back down the new hydro-electric track, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4672 : Looking back down the new hydro-electric track, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419370_5a8e0a71_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419396" target="_blank" title="NR4672 : The track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4672 : The track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419396_489ddb5c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, passing Loch Gleann Astaile <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419358" target="_blank" title="NR4772 : Lochan Gleann Astaile from track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4772 : Lochan Gleann Astaile from track up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419358_24e79e67_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and the hydro works there <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419372" target="_blank" title="NR4772 : Hydro works at Lochan Gleann Astaile, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4772 : Hydro works at Lochan Gleann Astaile, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419372_ead55f69_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The track veers northwards here and then we left it, striding out across pathless moorland <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418937" target="_blank" title="NR4772 : Moorland below Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4772 : Moorland below Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418937_5d32215f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
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Once closer to the mountain it looks ever so slightly less daunting, but only because the summit has disappeared from view <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419386" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Looking up towards the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Looking up towards the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419386_e2c7b866_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419378" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Looking up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Looking up Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419378_7ec2c1ae_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. As we ascended the mountain's western slopes, we paused to rest often and to take in the view across the Sound of Islay <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419385" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Looking towards the Sound of Islay from the western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Looking towards the Sound of Islay from the western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419385_e40154f4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418966" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Ascending Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Ascending Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418966_e0a1fe1b_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419419" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Before the scree, Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Before the scree, Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419419_bd5beda8_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Lochan Gleann Astaile was getting more distant <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419017" target="_blank" title="NR4872 : Lochan Gleann Astaile from southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4872 : Lochan Gleann Astaile from southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/90/3419017_e13ebe3d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419392" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Looking down to Lochan Gleann Astaile from near the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Looking down to Lochan Gleann Astaile from near the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419392_03daa8ad_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and the ominous scree slopes for which this range of mountains is famous, were drawing ever closer. Soon we were at the beginning of the scree; the bit I was dreading <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419380" target="_blank" title="NR4872 : Looking towards the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4872 : Looking towards the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419380_f5bd0bf0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418942" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Scree on southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Scree on southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418942_58362470_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Despite being dry underfoot, this was still hard work, particularly for someone who suffers form vertigo as I do. There's so much to concentrate on here - every footstep matters. Will I dislodge a rock that will fall on someone's head below me? Am I going to smash my camera on the rocks? Why didn't I put it in my rucsack before I began? Can I safely stop to take a photo? And then, 'What's that, Bronwen? You asked me something?' These mountains need treating with respect - and, for me, fear. But then, there's an incredible feeling of achievement once the worst is past <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419336" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419336_fafb45e3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Occasionally it was possible to stop to take a photo <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418955" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : View from southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : View from southern slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418955_bc0cd4da_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419401" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Looking towards the Sound of Islay from the western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Looking towards the Sound of Islay from the western slopes of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419401_4105c7b6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="82" /></a>, but mostly we plodded on, heads downwards until this scary ridge bit from where we got our first glimpse of the view south-eastwards <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419403" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Looking south-east from near the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Looking south-east from near the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419403_e85515c3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419412" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Looking south-east from near summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Looking south-east from near summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/94/3419412_98db2bac_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
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Then there's a small cairn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3418960" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Cairn near summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Cairn near summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/89/3418960_df5310d9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and lots more scree <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419390" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Making our way to the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Making our way to the summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419390_a1fbab62_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> before, relieved and elated we reached the summit <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419363" target="_blank" title="NR4873 : Beinn an Oir and Beinn Shiantaidh from summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4873 : Beinn an Oir and Beinn Shiantaidh from summit of Beinn a' Chaolais, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/93/3419363_29b56285_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> - and more perfect conditions we could not have asked for. It was nearly windless at 733 metres above sea level (and don't forget we walked every single one of those metres; my GPS read -3 metres at one point!) Needless to say the views here are fantastic and it was only after about an hour at the summit that we started to feel a little shivery and so began our descent.<br />
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Once back on level ground I turned to look at the monster we had conquered <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3419025" target="_blank" title="NR4773 : Beinn a' Chaolais after the ascent, Jura by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4773 : Beinn a' Chaolais after the ascent, Jura by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/90/3419025_6560c215_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. It looked less foreboding, but I still couldn't see how we'd made our way up! Two down, one to go - maybe I'll manage it this year yet! Watch this space . . . Our thanks to our excellent guide.<br />
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text/html2013-04-16T17:44:41+00:00Becky Williamson55.838628475453 -6.1783018862205Gortantoid to Finlaggan
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/192
This is the last in my latest series of walks. It's taken a lot of photo manipulation and working out which photo relates to which gridsquare, so a lot of time. Don't expect to see me on here for about another year! Just kidding, this thing is far too addictive for that to be the case. Sadly, though, there's only so much manipulating that can enhance boring photos and so I apologize in advance for the lack of interest in these photos; the weather was poor and, whilst the scenery was more exciting in actuality, it is difficult to capture its essence in a photo, as everyone knows.<br />
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After meeting at Finlaggan and depositing two cars there, five people and two dogs squeezed into one car for the trip to Gortantoid where we were leaving the vehicle. That's the one big drawback of these linear walks; the distance is far greater by road than by moors and it means making what's got to be an early start, even earlier to allow for the time taken to drive to the finishing and the starting points.<br />
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Cloud hung low as we set off, following the quad bike track along the Gortantoid River <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413372" target="_blank" title="NR3473 : Gortantoid River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3473 : Gortantoid River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413372_66082ced_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="50" /></a> but started to lift as we crossed the river <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413373" target="_blank" title="NR3473 : Ford across Gortantoid River, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3473 : Ford across Gortantoid River, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413373_ec9870d8_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and looked back towards Nave Island <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413374" target="_blank" title="NR3472 : Quad bike track east of Gortantoid, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3472 : Quad bike track east of Gortantoid, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413374_da251f18_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The quad bike track is a bonus here. I didn't remember it being there on my first ever Geograph walk (which was almost the same as this one). That time we had fought our way through the dense Rhododendron <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413375" target="_blank" title="NR3472 : Towards Beinn Bhreac, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3472 : Towards Beinn Bhreac, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413375_43790742_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. This time we followed the fence line and the track, heading towards Beinn Bhreac <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413376" target="_blank" title="NR3472 : Following the fence line near Beinn Bhreac, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3472 : Following the fence line near Beinn Bhreac, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413376_db9ee08d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. It soon clouded over again, however, and remained pretty dull for most of our walk (but I've already apologised for the effect that had on the photos!)<br />
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We were walking between Beinn Ghibheach and Beinn Bhreac. 'Gibeach' can, confusingly, be translated as either 'rough' or 'neat/tidy'. 'Breac' is spotted or speckled. I have yet to ascend Beinn Ghibheach. There was little appealing about it today, however, cast as it was in the shadow of cloud <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413377" target="_blank" title="NR3572 : Beinn Ghibheach by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3572 : Beinn Ghibheach by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413377_cc33185e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413380" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Beinn Ghibheach from the south, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Beinn Ghibheach from the south, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413380_43479943_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We continued eastwards, contouring round Beinn Bhreac <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413378" target="_blank" title="NR3572 : Moorland south-east of Gortantoid, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3572 : Moorland south-east of Gortantoid, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413378_d3b31911_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and admiring the attractive Giùr-bheinn in the distance <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413379" target="_blank" title="NR3572 : Giùr-bheinn from the west , Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3572 : Giùr-bheinn from the west , Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413379_ea4cafe3_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. I was excited about revisiting Mairi Thormaid's shieling as it is one of my favourite gridsquares on the island. My last visit had been in sunshine and solitude and somehow seemed more special, but there remains a poignancy about this ruin where we rested for a while <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413382" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Airigh Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Airigh Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413382_0ba4c284_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, wondering who Mairi Thormaid was and what had become of her. Did she own a horse to bring her here in the summer months or did she walk the long road from Gortantoid or Bunnhabhain? Was there even anyone alive today who could give us answers to these questions?<br />
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Mairi Thormaid is also honoured by having a burn named after her <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413383" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Allt Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Allt Màiri Thormaid, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413383_cbc5bd9c_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> and we followed this burn south <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413385" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Moorland south of Beinn Ghibheach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Moorland south of Beinn Ghibheach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413385_7b82109e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, now in the valley between Beinn Bhreac and Beinn na Heraibh <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413387" target="_blank" title="NR3670 : Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3670 : Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413387_7dcebafc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="55" /></a>. There are no words starting with the letter 'h' in Gaelic so 'Heraibh' is obviously a corruption of some other Gaelic word, but my Gaelic is not good enough to know which it is. Another thing to add to the research list!<br />
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On my last visit here I had noted an interesting eminence <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413389" target="_blank" title="NR3671 : Interesting eminence near Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3671 : Interesting eminence near Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413389_ad6d2ef4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> (in which I saw a Peacock Butterfly if I remember correctly). I had wondered then if there was any history attached to the place as it is not marked on the map. I took an accurate GPS waymark of the location but could find nothing on Scotland's Places website to suggest it is of any significance. Nevertheless, it appears to be manmade with raised turf and stones and roughly rectangular in shape.<br />
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We continued walking through this valley <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413392" target="_blank" title="NR3571 : Màiri Thormaid's Valley, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3571 : Màiri Thormaid's Valley, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413392_f8b14e27_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413395" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Marshland beneath Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Marshland beneath Beinn na Heraibh, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413395_db7e3789_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413396" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Looking towards Killinallan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Looking towards Killinallan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413396_da82b34e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> until we reached Gleann nam Meirleach (Thieves' Glen) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413399" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Looking towards Islay's eastern hills from Gleann nam Meirleach by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Looking towards Islay's eastern hills from Gleann nam Meirleach by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/33/3413399_8dae3787_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Presumably this valley was once used by crofters after stealing each others' stock! The plethora of old boundary lines, both here <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413400" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Old Boundary Line in Gleann nam Merileach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Old Boundary Line in Gleann nam Merileach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/34/3413400_e246e7f5_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> and all over the island, suggest that disputes over boundary lines was as big a problem then as it is today. Allt an Lochain Bhroaich (Burn of the Lochan abounding in sullen anger!)<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413623" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Allt an Lochain Bhroaich by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Allt an Lochain Bhroaich by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413623_560662b9_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> runs parallel to the remains of an old boundary line <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413627" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Old boundary line near Lochan Broach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Old boundary line near Lochan Broach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413627_be36b84e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> which presumably once extended further. It continues right up to the 'sullen' loch <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413629" target="_blank" title="NR3570 : Lochan Broach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3570 : Lochan Broach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413629_b34f13e1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Angry or not, Mike and Jane's dogs were happy to swim in it - or rather one of them was, the other apparently not being able to be persuaded, even to try to get rid of any ticks!<br />
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Finally we caught sight of our second lunch destination - the ruin at Tais (Moist) Bheinn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413632" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Ruin at Tais Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Ruin at Tais Bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413632_9ac123b0_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We had to cross a 'river' to get to it, the Abhainn Airigh an t-Sluic (River of the Shieling of the pit/den/hollow) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413635" target="_blank" title="NR3670 : Abhainn Airigh an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3670 : Abhainn Airigh an t-Sluic, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413635_98092dca_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>. This was no more than a step across and then we enjoyed an anniversary picnic (Mike and Jane's) at the ruin before ascending Tais Bheinn and looking back at our picnic spot <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413638" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Looking back to the ruin on Tais Bheinn by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Looking back to the ruin on Tais Bheinn by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413638_ceae2e1e_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>.<br />
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Once over the 'mountain' we could just glimpse Loch a' Chaorainn (Loch of the Rowan Tree) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413641" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Looking towards Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Looking towards Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413641_1c2bc1e9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413642" target="_blank" title="NR3769 : Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3769 : Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413642_419f47a6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> in the distance. Below us in the valley of the Sruthan Airigh an t-Sagairt (Stream of the Priest's shielings) <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413646" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Sruthan Airigh an t-Sagairt and moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Sruthan Airigh an t-Sagairt and moorland, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413646_f5dbd0d7_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> were the scattered ruins of said shielings <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413644" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Looking down on ruins at Airigh an t-Sagairt by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Looking down on ruins at Airigh an t-Sagairt by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413644_68862e93_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413649" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Airigh an t-Sagairt, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Airigh an t-Sagairt, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413649_b4d3b57c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We didn't investigate these further, although we agreed these were not as impressive as either of the other ruins we'd viewed today so far (we still had one ruined village to visit).<br />
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We crossed the outlet from Loch a' Chaorainn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413654" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Outlet from Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Outlet from Loch a' Chaorainn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413654_74694170_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and looked despairingly across more moorland to yet another hill <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413656" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : Looking across moorland to the hill we must climb, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : Looking across moorland to the hill we must climb, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413656_12a4c0d1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. "I thought you said there would be no hills on this walk," Jim reminded me. I'd hoped he'd forgotten I'd said that, but no such luck! "We'll see the forest just over the hill," I promised, hoping desperately that would be the case. It was! <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413658" target="_blank" title="NR3669 : First glimpse of Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3669 : First glimpse of Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413658_881353ca_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and soon thereafter we found the gate through the deer fence <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413662" target="_blank" title="NR3668 : Deer gate north of Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3668 : Deer gate north of Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413662_2ff16d22_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and the track <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413665" target="_blank" title="NR3668 : Quad bike track leading to Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3668 : Quad bike track leading to Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413665_97d6c53f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> leading from there to Ballachlaven Farm <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413666" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Looking towards Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Looking towards Ballachlaven, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413666_6a83ccb1_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, probably the same one I'd followed on my last walk here. I'd walked from and to Ballachlaven Farm on that occasion, rather than Finlaggan, which was where we were heading today. <br />
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We needed to venture away from the track in order to reach our destination so we headed towards the conifer plantation <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413669" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413669_5f831199_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413670" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Conifer Plantation, Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Conifer Plantation, Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413670_1d357d6a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413672" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Corner of forest, Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Corner of forest, Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413672_8af7d6de_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. By now the sun was making a reappearance, making the scene which soon lay in front of us even more attractive. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413676" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Finlaggan Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413676_a9670acf_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413679" target="_blank" title="NR3768 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3768 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413679_8128c63d_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="66" /></a>. Pausing for another break (we were all feeling quite dehydrated today) we could see and hear people on Eilean Mòr <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413688" target="_blank" title="NR3868 : Eilean Mòr, Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3868 : Eilean Mòr, Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413688_6cd92d75_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, one of the two islands which formed the administration centres of the Lordship of the Isles during the 13th to 15th centuries. In 1493 the lordship of the Isles fell to James IV of Scotland, who administered the territory via a tenant-in-chief. Many visitors come to view the ruined castle and chapel every year. <br />
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We mustered enough energy to descend the hill to view our final ruin of the day, Sean-ghairt (Old Cornfield). <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413680" target="_blank" title="NR3867 : Sean-ghairt, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3867 : Sean-ghairt, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413680_017a28f9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> These are quite extensive ruins, more extensive than all the remnants of our energy put together (including the dogs)! So we did not do them justice on this occasion, but, being close to the Visitor Centre at Finlaggan, I am sure I will pay them another visit soon. <br />
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We followed a very vague path right by the western shores of the Loch <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413683" target="_blank" title="NR3867 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3867 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413683_7aa84c77_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, which provided excellent views of the ancient seat of the Lord of the Isles. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3413685" target="_blank" title="NR3868 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3868 : Loch Finlaggan, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/41/36/3413685_1a501005_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> After surviving many a dried up bog, it was here, at the very end of our walk where Mike nearly lost one of his new wellies in the boggy terrain. By clinging to the fence the rest of us managed to pull ourselves to safety and then back to the car where water awaited us!text/html2013-04-03T20:18:20+00:00Becky WilliamsonGiur-bheinn and Margadale Circular, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/186
Having my daughter home for the Easter holidays, combined with (finally) glorious weather meant that I just couldn't wait to be out. This was a reconnaisance walk for the forthcoming Walk Islay week on which I'd been asked to lead a walk up this modest hill. Being one of my favourite hills and being near one of my favourite ruins, I decided to combine the two and make it into a circular walk. After much research and enquiry, I've recently discovered that 'Giùr' is an Islay word for crouching or stooped, the mountain seemingly resembling that position.<br />
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We started at our usual spot and walked down the familiar track <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836896" target="_blank" title="NR4173 : Track to 'car park', Bunnahabhain, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4173 : Track to 'car park', Bunnahabhain, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/83/68/2836896_8a7396fc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> to the forest with the track leading all the way to Balulive. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392949" target="_blank" title="NR4173 : Track to Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4173 : Track to Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392949_741f8812_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. The track leads across the sturdy bridge across the Abhainn Araig (translation uncertain. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392922" target="_blank" title="NR4173 : Bridge over Abhainn Araig, Bunnahabhain, Islay by Lorna Williamson"><img alt="NR4173 : Bridge over Abhainn Araig, Bunnahabhain, Islay by Lorna Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392922_4db9259b_120x120.jpg" width="99" height="120" /></a> From here (as well as almost the entire walk) you can see Sgarbh Breac (Speckled Cormorant), a distinctive peak in the area. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392923" target="_blank" title="NR4173 : View from bridge over Abhainn Araig, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4173 : View from bridge over Abhainn Araig, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392923_d55caa1d_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a> The track leads to a deer fence, thankfully with gate <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393760" target="_blank" title="NR4073 : Deer fence and gate on track to Balulive, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4073 : Deer fence and gate on track to Balulive, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/37/3393760_204613ae_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Looking back you see your last glimpse of the iconic Paps of Jura before you enter the dense conifer plantation. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392935" target="_blank" title="NR4073 : Track through Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR4073 : Track through Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392935_424e5779_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a><br />
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This was the bit I am never too keen on. I much prefer to be out in the open with vast vistas spread out before me. I don't like the feeling of being enclosed. Also, this was the bit of the walk I felt least certain of; I never know which is the correct ride to meet the deer gate at the western side of the plantation. Miss it and you may have to clamber over the 6 foot high fence. Before making that decision, however, you view Staoisha Eararach from its neighbouring gridsquare <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392927" target="_blank" title="NR3972 : Looking towards Staoisha Eararach from track, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3972 : Looking towards Staoisha Eararach from track, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392927_8c742331_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, making it difficult to get anything other than Supplemental status for this feature - it seems gratuitous to walk to the ruin just to get a Geograph, but I can imagine myself just having to do it one day! Before reaching the ruin there is a fork in the road <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392930" target="_blank" title="NR3972 : Fork in track at Staoisha Eararach, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3972 : Fork in track at Staoisha Eararach, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392930_c9a8fa6f_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and it is necessary to take the westernmost route to reach the deer gate - I remembered that much! At the next fork we took the southernmost route, leading to views of Loch and Dhudhaich <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392932" target="_blank" title="NR3972 : Loch an Dhudhaich, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3972 : Loch an Dhudhaich, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392932_5898934a_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We finally plumped for a forest ride <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393625" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Forest Ride, Bunnahabhain, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Forest Ride, Bunnahabhain, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/36/3393625_f41dea25_120x120.jpg" width="80" height="120" /></a>, which fortuantely led to the deer gate <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392925" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Deer gate at Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Deer gate at Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392925_681b4df6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> and - yippee! - wide open spaces, with remnants of snow <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393732" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Remnants of snow above Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Remnants of snow above Bunnahabhain Plantation, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/37/3393732_d53c238c_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. Following the quad bike track leads to the southern end of Loch Giùr-bheinn <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393637" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Quad bike track near Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Quad bike track near Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s1.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/36/3393637_0cfdeefc_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>. We strode off north-eastwards to reach the northern shores of the Loch <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392926" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Loch Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Loch Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s2.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392926_ab94b459_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> from where we began our ascent. <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393719" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Looking up to the summit of Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Looking up to the summit of Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/37/3393719_d8e394c4_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> The views were stunning <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393651" target="_blank" title="NR3872 : Loch Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3872 : Loch Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/36/3393651_1a71b205_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> - it was such a glorious day, if a bit blowy as we reached the dizzy heights of this 'great' mountain. <br />
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The wind was quite strong at the summit <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392948" target="_blank" title="NR3772 : Summit of Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3772 : Summit of Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/29/3392948_5c5a8fc6_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> so we lingered only long enough to take photos <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393644" target="_blank" title="NR3772 : Looking north-west from Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3772 : Looking north-west from Giùr-bheinn, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/36/3393644_5bd37463_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a> before descending via the mountain's northern slopes <a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393771" target="_blank" title="NR3873 : Descending Giùr-bheinn's northern slopes, Islay by Becky Williamson"><img alt="NR3873 : Descending Giùr-bheinn's northern slopes, Islay by Becky Williamson" loading="lazy" src="https://s3.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/03/39/37/3393771_bd11c1a9_120x120.jpg" width="120" height="80" /></a>, passing the outlet from Loch Giùr-bheinn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392921">3392921</a>]]. Looking back our mountain looked much more impressive than it had done on our ascent. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392947">3392947</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392929">3392929</a>]]. We were walking almost directly north,[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392952">3392952</a>]], crossing the Bealach a' Bhearnain [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392938">3392938</a>]] and walking parallel at times to the same plantation we'd walked through earlier. The Paps of Jura kept peering over the tops of the trees. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392933">3392933</a>]]. Eventually we reached the westernmost corner of the plantation [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392924">3392924</a>]] and turned the corner. From here we could see the ruins of Margadale, including the ruinous sheep fold which I'd never managed to get to before [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392941">3392941</a>]]. I didn't manage to get to it this time either and had to be content with taking a photo through the deer fence. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392931">3392931</a>]]<br />
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We kept moving the goal posts as far as lunch was concerned and I was amazed when we ended up eating it at Margadale, one of my favourite ruins on the island. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392954">3392954</a>]]. We lingered here for a while; it is such a peaceful spot and then continued south-eastwards, following the quad bike track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393724">3393724</a>]] and more or less following the river, looking back occasionally to the ruin we'd left behind [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392951">3392951</a>]]. <br />
<br />
A bridge I'd never noticed before caught my eye and I went over to investigate. It is actually only two-thirds of a footbridge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393001">3393001</a>]]. Following the river further south we soon saw a mysterious wall/bridge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393740">3393740</a>]]. What on earth was the purpose of that? We continued to follow the river [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393743">3393743</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392936">3392936</a>]]. The views eastwards were stunning in the early spring sunshine, across the Sound of Islay to those iconic paps of Jura [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393750">3393750</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392934">3392934</a>]]. The quad bike track eventually leads to a small bridge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3393630">3393630</a>]], past an eastern corner of the plantation [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392928">3392928</a>]] and then to the covered reservoir near where we began the walk, about 5 hours previously [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392950">3392950</a>]]. From here it is a short stroll to another deer fence and gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3392937">3392937</a>]] and from there, not far to the car.<br />
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text/html2013-04-10T14:08:02+00:00Becky Williamson56.80050914118 -3.3688557695278Glen Beanie circular walk, Glen Shee
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/190
Our plans to do some hillwalking had been thwarted by the heavy snowfall of recent weeks, but we remained undeterred from doing some serious walking - my daughter and I that is. I simply revised my 'wish list'. Unlike when I am on Islay, constantly perusing the maps for gridsquares yet unvisited, I was looking at a totally green map and so could choose anywhere, as long as it wasn't too risky.<br />
<br />
I chose Glen Beanie. originally my wish list had included a circular trip which took in both Loch Beanie and Mealna Letter to the south. Well that would have to be revised for a start.<br />
<br />
So we set off, having hired child-sized snow goggles from a nice man at one of the many ski hire centres in Glen Shee. (He'd run out of adult sized pairs). We met our second friendly person of the day after carefully parking the car at Dalvanie and the start of our walk. He had just fed the cattle and was up for a long chat. "There's lots of snow at Loch Beanie," he warned. "I was after feeding the cattle there a few days ago."<br />
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Undeterred, we set off along the snow-covered path (now with tractor tyre marks too) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404680">3404680</a>]] and followed the path which runs parallel to the woodland [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404682">3404682</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404685">3404685</a>]]. At times the path was hard to follow, but it was to become much harder to do so as we entered Glen Beanie proper. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404690">3404690</a>]] I decided it was too risky to keep following the footprints which seemed to be leading up Creagan Caise; much safer to stay in the valley - or so I thought - to my error. We followed ski tracks along the valley and I fell waist-deep in to the Glen Beanie burn. Fortunately Lorna was there to help me out and I wasn't in for very long and fortunately I'd got enough layers on to prevent the cold seeping through. Even so it was cold enough not to want to linger. A hot cup of water later and we were back on our way. I checked my camera to make sure it was still working, taking a photo of Mealna Letter (which would have been our destination) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404692">3404692</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404816">3404816</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405032">3405032</a>]]. My binoculars were not to function properly for the rest of the walk however and I missed them sorely, not being able to see the huge herd of Red Deer at the head of the Glen. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404712">3404712</a>]]<br />
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We took a final look back down the Glen [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404795">3404795</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404778">3404778</a>]] before heading over the saddle towards Loch Beanie, still trying desperately to find and follow the footprints of those who had gone before. Expecting quite a large loch we were surprised to see a much reduced loch due to the snow which lay over much of its surface. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404823">3404823</a>]] The views were stunning though and we truly felt in the middle of nowhere although I think this was an illusion cast largely by the snow and the sheer whiteness of it all. Had there not been any snow it would not have been as pretty, the walk would have been a lot easier and it would certainly have felt less remote.<br />
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The footprints led to the delightful footbridge over the Allt Mòr where we decided to have lunch. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404776">3404776</a>]] We'd debated whether to trudge gratuitously to the Boat House to see if it was open as it would have been warm and dry in there, but decided it was unnecessarily far, especially if we'd found it locked. We sat on the footbridge and I allowed us 20 minutes for lunch. A Dipper surprised us by flying overhead, calling anxiously. No doubt we were disturbing it, but we were not going to linger long. I hoped it would find refuge somewhere as there was not much of a river for it to find food and shelter. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405031">3405031</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405026">3405026</a>]].<br />
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The footpath became even more vague as we headed westwards towards Glen Shee Lodge where we hoped to join the Cateran Trail. A gate marked the end of our trudge and the beginning of more cultivated land at Shallavanach. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404783">3404783</a>]] The snow became more patchy [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404705">3404705</a>]] and we soon caught sight of buildings. We were relieved to see signs of civilisation after our long trek through the snow [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404828">3404828</a>]]. <br />
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Approaching Shallavanach the snow became even more patchy [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405035">3405035</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404813">3404813</a>]]. We paused to take a photo of a large boulder just before the farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404808">3404808</a>]] and then we were at the Glen Shee Outdoor Centre [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404820">3404820</a>]] where we asked about the Cateran Trail. Where could we join it? We'd come unnecessarily far. We should have joined the trail at Shallavanach so we retraced our steps and walked through sludgy fields to the trail.<br />
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The trail seems to consist of a lot of redundant stiles [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405036">3405036</a>]]. This one was just after a memorial which, quite frankly, we had no energy to detour to [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404709">3404709</a>]]. There was still a lot of snow around [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405034">3405034</a>]] and walking was still incredibly hard work. We still managed to pause to take requisite photos [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405027">3405027</a>]] and just to rest or admire the views.<br />
<br />
We crossed the Allt Coire na Ceardaich [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404788">3404788</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404785">3404785</a>]] near Dunmay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3405029">3405029</a>]] and continued southwards. Pollgorm Cottage across the valley looked attractive with its red roof [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404818">3404818</a>]]. Soon we were at Dalnaglar Castle [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3404780">3404780</a>]], but time was short and we couldn't afford to pause. We'd promised to return the snow goggles before the hire place closed at 6 pm and my parents had told us they would start worrying if we hadn't returned before 6.30 pm. Both were looking like an increasing impossibility.<br />
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We emerged pretty unscathed onto our first proper road in 6 miles and the tarmac felt weird beneath our feet. Still there were signs for the Cateran Trail [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406038">3406038</a>]]. Soon we arrived at the B951 where we mustered a giggle at someone's snowy handiwork [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406040">3406040</a>]] at the junction [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406041">3406041</a>]]. From here there was nothing for it but to wind our weary way eastwards along a seemingly never-ending road. In truth there was only 3 miles of it, but that's a long way after 6 miles of snow when you've fallen in a river and your son's left you an anxious message to call him but you have no signal to call him or your anxious parents and no number or signal to call the kind man who hired out child-sized snow goggles at a bargain price. Violins please! Anxiety laden, we trundled along the B road to Glen Isla [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406042">3406042</a>]]. Even taking photos was an effort for me now, but I knew I'd regret it afterwards if I didn't have the full walk in photos.<br />
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We knew we'd to pass the attractive Forter Castle. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406036">3406036</a>]] for we'd seen it on our way to the parking place many hours before. "It seemed ages from there to the car," Lorna moaned and I echoed her sighs but tried not to show it - good mother that I am! We turned onto our final minor road as dusk was falling [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3406039">3406039</a>]] and imagined the car round every bend. Eventually we arrived back. It was just after 6 pm. I am grateful to the ski hire place for still being open to return the goggles and to the lady in the pottery who let me use the phone to call my worried parents. "The tea will be spoilt," was their sympathetic response. So be it - a small price to pay for this snowy adventure.<br />
text/html2013-04-07T09:42:23+00:00Becky WilliamsonLoch Cam and Loch Drolsay Circular Walk, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/188
This was to be my third or fourth visit to what is known as the Sorn Valley in the centre (ish) of the island. The area is difficult to access and some gridsquares are therefore really only accessible by repeating some parts of previous walks. This is not a complaint, of course, particularly when the weather is as glorious as it was today.<br />
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Angus, the friendly farmer of both Scarrabus and Balole farms met us at the deer gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397508">3397508</a>]] and welcomed us, advising us that we need not fear adders today. The earliest he had ever seen an adder was 4th of April one particularly warm spring, and it certainly wasn't as warm today (even if it was sunny all day). I told him that on a previous walk in the area we had seen no less than 6 adders - the most I've ever seen in one day. Angus seemed happy to chat and boast about his new calves [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3396806">3396806</a>]]. We assured him we'd given cows and calves a wide berth. He also gave a wonderful description of his encounter with a Golden Eagle, "I came upon it by mistake," he enthused, "it rose up before me and its wings went on and on. I thought they would never end." I mused on that description all day and thought it beautiful.<br />
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Passing more cattle, we were soon at Loch Càm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397509">3397509</a>]]. The name translates mysteriously as crooked/curved/winding Loch, but this does not seem an appropriate translation as there are many more lochs on Islay that would be much better suited to such a name. Perhaps it refers to the hill of the same name which could be said to bend round (if in fact mountains are capable of bending!). The Loch glistened in the early spring sunshine [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397510">3397510</a>]] so we paused to take photos [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397511">3397511</a>]] before following the track northwards to Beinn Chàm, which was to be one of our destinations today [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397512">3397512</a>]].<br />
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Before the end of the track we strode off north-eastwards up Gleann Càm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397515">3397515</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397518">3397518</a>]], following Allt nan Oisgean which translates as Burn of the Sheep/year old ewes. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397513">3397513</a>]]. From a more elevated position, the shape of the Loch became more evident [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397514">3397514</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397516">3397516</a>]], whilst our destination looked more daunting [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397517">3397517</a>]]. <br />
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Once near the summit we looked down westwards on Loch Leathan (Broad Loch) and admired amazing views in every direction. From even this modest height (about 180 m) we could see Mull, Northern Ireland, Jura, Colonsay and the Mull of Kintrye as we turned in every direction. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397521">3397521</a>]] I could also 'see my house from here'. It really was a stunning day. We could not have asked for better. <br />
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I wanted to find the Standing Stone which is marked on the map and it took a little finding. We saw its top first, approach it as we did from the west. I guess it would have been visible sooner if we had approached from the east or north. One part of the standing stone is prostrate on the ground so it may have once been taller than its current 3 feet. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397520">3397520</a>]]<br />
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We stopped for lunch on the sheltered western slopes of Beinn Chàm before descending to Loch Leathan [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397522">3397522</a>]]. We walked round its northern shores, following the usual faint deer paths [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397524">3397524</a>]]. This valley is usually even wetter than it was today, a lot wetter. I'm not sure in fact if it would ever be much drier than it was today; the island has basked in cold, dry easterly winds and sunshine for a couple of months now. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397525">3397525</a>]].<br />
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Sruthan na Criche translates as Stream of the Boundary [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397527">3397527</a>]] and in fact an old boundary line vaguely follows the course of this stream through this valley. Following this stream and boundary [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397528">3397528</a>]] we came across some old shielings [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397529">3397529</a>]] - the summer residences of farmers who brought their cattle out here to graze during the summer months. These were circular in shape, stone and turf in nature.<br />
<br />
As well as the larger lochs and lochans, such as Loch nan Caorach (Loch of the Sheep) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399000">3399000</a>]], there is a plethora of unnamed lochans [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399004">3399004</a>]] and small moorland pools in this valley [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3397530">3397530</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399005">3399005</a>]]. There are also several lines of old iron posts, marking old boundaries [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399002">3399002</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399003">3399003</a>]]; Islay has many such old boundaries, some of them in the most unlikely of places - a sign that disputes over boundaries was as common in days gone by as they are today?<br />
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Loch Drolsay is possibly a Norse name (my uneducated guess!) and follows a SE to NW angle. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399006">3399006</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399007">3399007</a>]]. We walked by its western shores [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399008">3399008</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399009">3399009</a>]]. Then I left Lorna and Jim briefly (at least I thought it was going to be!) whilst I went in search of a new gridsquare through the snow-clad moorland. Conscious that they might be wondering where I was I just stepped a few metres into the square and took the requisite photo [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399010">3399010</a>]] - one of my most boring yet. Turning I managed to photograph some distant Red Deer, which I disturbed [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399011">3399011</a>]], but this was another gridsquare.<br />
<br />
There was a good view of Loch Drolsay from here, the lower slopes of Beinn an Fhuaraidh 'Mountain of the windward side/blast/draught'. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399012">3399012</a>]]. Rejoining the others, we now walked pretty much pathlessly through Glen Drolsay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399013">3399013</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399014">3399014</a>]], looking back towards Beinn an Fhuaraidh, the 'mountain' I'd just descended [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399017">3399017</a>]]. I recognised Allt Garbh (Rough Burn) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399018">3399018</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399019">3399019</a>]] from a previous (summer)visit [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2590931">2590931</a>]]. From here it was a much easier stroll through the deer gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399020">3399020</a>]] to Scarrabus [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2590932">2590932</a>]] where we met Angus again (and his wife) who stopped once more to chat. It's wonderful to find such friendliness; it occurs so infrequently these days, but abounds on Islay.<br />
<br />
An unusual stone caught my eye as we left the farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399089">3399089</a>]]. Was it a standing stone or just a big boulder? We trudged along the track to Balole [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399091">3399091</a>]] and back to the farm and our waiting car [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3399095">3399095</a>]]. This beautiful part of the island is seldom visited but deserves more recognition. <br />
<br />
text/html2013-03-19T21:22:08+00:00Becky Williamson55.804397986636 -6.1267232047822In the lee of Beinn Dubh, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/185
We nearly didn't go on this walk. The cold north-easterly wind did blow and we had planned to walk on Islay's eastern shores; well, not shores exactly; that just sounded better. I had worked out a circular route, starting at Ballygrant quarry, walking up the track to Lossit Farm, down to the bothy at Baleachdrach and then southwards at the foot of Beinn Dubh to Lochs Fada and Leathann and back to the road and the car.<br />
<br />
It was all familiar territory to me, although I have only done all the walk once before when I ascended Beinn Dubh [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1750262">1750262</a>]]. We started at the quarry and walked south-eastwards down the 'Glen' Road. Jim pointed out the disused mine to me [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374385">3374385</a>]]. At the fork in the road [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3308650">3308650</a>]] we turned left and skirted the edge of Ballygrant Woods and Loch. We passed Lossit Lodge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3308653">3308653</a>]] and walked uphill to Lossit Loch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374433">3374433</a>]], a freshwater loch with two small, wooded islands. At Lossit Farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2181580">2181580</a>]] we paused to talk to the gamekeeper who reminded us that we would surely feel the blast on the brow of the hill!<br />
<br />
When we walked down the steep farm track to Baleachdrach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374443">3374443</a>]] I commented that it was a lot easier descending this road than ascending it. "Och, I don't know," replied Jim, looking back, "it doesn't look that bad." I said I'd remind him of this fact if we ever did the walk in reverse! A gate halfway down the track made us smile [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374401">3374401</a>]] with its comical sign [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374407">3374407</a>]]. Then Baleachdrach came into sight [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374257">3374257</a>]]. This bothy has always been locked in the past so I was surprised to find it open and it proved to be a welcome retreat from the cold wind for a few minutes whilst we drank hot drinks from our thermoses. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374381">3374381</a>]] I assume this is a stalker's bothy, used for shooting parties to indulge in more luxurious fare than we were enjoying today. The fireplace looked big enough to roast a good portion of venison on!<br />
<br />
Out of the bothy we felt the blast of the easterly wind until we found shelter in the woodland south of the bothy [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374464">3374464</a>]]. The track continues here further than is shown on the map, although it is hardly suitable for any but the most versatile of vehicles.[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374546">3374546</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374373">3374373</a>]]. A deer gate marks the end of the proper track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374268">3374268</a>]], although a very muddy portion continues for a bit southwards. We looked backwards to see the snow-summited Paps emerging briefly from the cloud.[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374514">3374514</a>]].<br />
<br />
We were now in search of dùns and reliant on the GPS to help us find them. There were two marked on the map and a lot of possibilities in sight! We soon found the first dùn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374280">3374280</a>]] which affords excellent views towards Beinn Dubh (Black Mountain). There is an expansive walled enclosure here; in some places the wall reaches a height of about 5 feet. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374526">3374526</a>]] The enclosure is clearly visible on the map and is indicative of a time when the island was much more populated. There is a poignancy here in this now uninhabited territory where ancient, not so ancient and contemporary meet (we were prevented from exploring further by the presence of a deer fence to the west). Life has been and life continues whilst the elements and nature span all eras and bring a continuity to it all - walls are covered with moss and modern fenceposts are already encrusted with lichens. As well as the man-made wall, we could now see the natural dyke running from the top of a higher dùn towards us and further west [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374493">3374493</a>]] I was fascinated to see this, although the last time I saw it I had a better view (from the top of Beinn Dubh) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1750260">1750260</a>]].<br />
<br />
Two mysteries arose from our trip today - why did this burn disappear into the ground? [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374273">3374273</a>]] and what was the purpose of this single iron post near the walled enclosure? [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374439">3374439</a>]]<br />
<br />
We were to return to this grid square later, but for now we skirted the bottom of Beinn Dubh, passing another erstwhile wall [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374517">3374517</a>]] (there are actually many here) and avoided some very marshy ground which in fact is contourless for the best part of a quarter of the gridsquare! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374396">3374396</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374482">3374482</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374502">3374502</a>]]. Lazy beds are another poignant reminder of previous inhabitation [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374343">3374343</a>]]<br />
<br />
Loch Leathann (Broad Loch) became visible as we followed the edge of this marshy 'bowl' [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374475">3374475</a>]] and then its twin, Loch Fada (Long Loch) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374362">3374362</a>]]. Then we were worried about the impending deer fence, but we found another gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374262">3374262</a>]] which served more of a purpose than this non-existent gate further down the track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374507">3374507</a>]]. The track we were now on is a fisherman's or gamekeeper's track which returns briefly to NR4164. I was quite excited about seeing the ruins marked clearly on the map (having learnt my lesson about not just looking for named ruins on maps!) The only thing with my finely tuned map reading skills is that whereas before I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon a ruin, now my expectations were high. Wow! There were going to be three ruins here (according to the map) but no, this can't be it. Where are they? There was certainly one, its gable end giving it away, making it visible from the track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374428">3374428</a>]] (taken after striding off the track for a few metres). OK, so I was going to have to be satisfied with this one ruin [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374542">3374542</a>]]. Walls are certainly a feature here - there is a plethora thereof! There also seemed to be a duck pond!<br />
<br />
We paused here for lunch and discussed the success of our walk - yes there had been bog, but not a single fence to cross. That's success in my books (as well as being unusual!) The Standing Stone could be seen from the track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374660">3374660</a>]], but hardly seemed worth the effort to go to (another time maybe!). A supply of spare tyres made an interesting feature for a photograph [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374459">3374459</a>]] in the next gridsquare, as did the permanent puddle with its curious stone structure (possibly a hide for duck shooters as we flushed some Teal here) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374357">3374357</a>]].<br />
<br />
Soon we were back on the 'Glen Road' [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374510">3374510</a>]] which led past Knocklearoch with its protected Standing Stones [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2492905">2492905</a>]]. Then we were back at the car and glad of the heated seats!<br />
<br />
It had been a very enjoyable walk, although, as the photos demonstrate, the lighting was not brilliant for photography. I'm looking forward to spring and bright skies!text/html2013-03-19T07:10:30+00:00Becky Williamson55.758032575019 -6.4248736971077Ancient Ileach company on Mother's Day
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/184
Feeling a little sorry for myself as it was my first Mother's Day on my own - not that we had ever made much of a fuss about it in our family - I decided to pack a picnic and gain some more Islay gridsquares. After all, that was my favourite thing to do and I didn't mind doing it on my own so would be less likely to indulge in a bout of self-pity.<br />
<br />
Perhaps my least visited area of the island is the Rhinns peninsula. I'm not sure why. But I had long ago noticed on the map the curious name of Olistadh situated off the Kilchiaran road near Gearach. I decided to make this my destination and, if the weather (and my spirits) improved, I would extend the walk to the other side of the road and attempt to find one of the duns marked east of Kilchiaran.<br />
<br />
Parking at Gearach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3265105">3265105</a>]], I got out of the car and it started snowing. Knowing it was only a half mile walk to Olistadh I decided to carry on and immediately entered new territory - shameful really as this is a mere stone's throw off the 'main' road. Perhaps that's why actually; I've always preferred locations which lie well off the beaten track! Still, I never fail to get excited about entering new territory so I walked up to the gate at the beginning of the forest track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366593">3366593</a>]]. About ten minutes later I emerged into open countryside through an open gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366588">3366588</a>]].<br />
<br />
From here it wasn't far to my destination. Olistadh is Old Norse for Olafr's Steading. It is one of the minority of place-names on Islay which can be traced to the Viking Age. The settlement consists of six unroofed buildings. One is now separated from the others by a deer fence [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366597">3366597</a>]] Although still accessible through a gate, I did not visit this particular building on this occasion. The other buildings are relatively close together, nestled below the massif of Beinn Tart a' Mhill. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366591">3366591</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366579">3366579</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366564">3366564</a>]] with a distant view of the Paps of Jura [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366574">3366574</a>]]. An extensive wall surrounds the settlement [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366576">3366576</a>]]. This latter photo shows the distant, isolated farm of Bolsay and the more distant Oa peninsula. It's on occasions like this that I'm reminded again of the size of Islay. Visitors often ask 'What's that land there in the distance?' and are always surprised when I reply, 'Still Islay!'<br />
<br />
By the time I left Olafr's steading, the sun was making more of an appearance. So much so in fact that I not only decided to continue my walk on the other side of the road, but I decided to change to my polariser filter as well - a sure sign that I had faith in the emergence of the sun. I was familiar with Loch Gearach only through goose-counting when we used to have to walk to the Loch to see if there were any geese nearby (usually only Greylags). Today I viewed the Loch from a more elevated position with the attractive addition of an old ruin in the foreground [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366592">3366592</a>]]. I headed almost directly north across a welcome, albeit faint farm track west of the Gearach plantation. Then one of my favourite things happened. I noticed in the distance a whole bunch of ruins. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374843">3374843</a>]] Now where were they and why weren't they marked on the map? Another glance at the map showed that they were in fact marked on the map, just not named, so I would have to do my homework upon my return (something else I love!)<br />
<br />
I decided I'd head up to the settlement and so extend my walk even more. I was feeling quite elated; the day was turning out far better than I'd thought. There was even a 'board walk' across to the dùn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366595">3366595</a>]] which stood prominently above the boggy moorland. Dùn Glas an Lòin Ghuirm translates from Gaelic as 'The Grey Fort of the Blue Marsh (or Meal)'. I'd say it was more brown than either grey or blue but I suspect something is lost in the translation! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366603">3366603</a>]]. From the summit of this fortified eminence I looked north towards Greamsay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366604">3366604</a>]] and south towards Loch Gearach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366563">3366563</a>]].<br />
<br />
Descending from those dizzy heights, I skirted the dùn to find Outcome 3 - the Standing Stone which is the guardian of Greamsay Village. It is visible from some distance and I sat here beneath this lichen-encrusted antiquity for a brief rest and cup of hot water [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366602">3366602</a>]], looking towards Greamsay and musing on its origins.<br />
<br />
It is in fact of Old Norse derivation once again, translating as Grim's Steading, a name which hopefully did not have the same negative connotations as it does today. Would the Brothers Grimm have written such 'grim' tales if they'd been called 'cheerful' instead? of course they would, but trains of thought do tend to run away with you when you're on your own in open moorland. With the sun now out for the rest of the day I strode elatedly to this old settlement and spent ages photographing its various buildings and structures. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366589">3366589</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366587">3366587</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366586">3366586</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366580">3366580</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366572">3366572</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366568">3366568</a>]]. I was intrigued to find a massive piece of quartz beneath one of the buildings [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366585">3366585</a>]]. I'm not sure I've seen such a massive piece before.<br />
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I hadn't intended doing so, but I now decided to extend my walk yet again and walk to the east side of Loch Gearach. That way I could look for the recumbent standing stone and take in another grid square. This proved to be the most difficult part of the walk as there is nothing like a path across the sometimes boggy moorland, intersected by rivulets [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366599">3366599</a>]]. An old wall was evidence of previous habitation, suggesting it was once a less strenuous walk. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366582">3366582</a>]]. Old iron fence posts were the last feature in this gridsquare before I set foot into the next [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366606">3366606</a>]]. <br />
<br />
With very few features to aid navigation and thick heather underfoot, it was a while before I found the fallen standing stone (by definition it was not going to be THAT easy to find!) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366569">3366569</a>]]. It was situated next to a curious pile of stones (this time they are DEFINITELY not marked on the map in any shape or form [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366575">3366575</a>]]. I used one of these to sit on and eat my picnic, whilst looking across to Cnoc Thornasaig [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366584">3366584</a>]].<br />
<br />
A very faint track leads from here back to Gearach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366600">3366600</a>]]. For 'faint' read 'indecipherable' - at least in places. But it does become more distinct [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366571">3366571</a>]] and leads to a gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366561">3366561</a>]] at the dammed southern end of the Loch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3374846">3374846</a>]]. A ford across the Abhainn Gearach was my last feature of the day. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3366562">3366562</a>]]<br />
<br />
Despite extending my walk several times, I was still home for around 2.30 pm that day after a glorious day out in the hills with so many unexpected pleasant surprises. Isn't that what Mother's Day is all about? Oh, and I also got to talk to my kids later on that day!<br />
<br />
*Ileach is an Islay nativetext/html2013-03-13T15:52:16+00:00Becky Williamson55.825826247966 -6.2887719750643Two Old Islay Farmsteads
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/181
I seem to be having a bit of a thing at the moment for Islay ruins - the more isolated, the better! Hence, after checking the forecast and yep, it was going to be another beauty of a day, Fiona and I met at the Coullabus road end at 9.15 am to work out car positions and the route.<br />
<br />
The only thing was, it wasn't a beauty of a day. It turned out to be the bad day sandwiched between two good ones - and naturally the day we'd chosen to walk! Fiona is familiar with this terrain - we both are - but she had not walked the exact route we were going to be doing today; neither had I. That's what makes it exciting!<br />
<br />
We parked at Bun an Uillt (Mouth of the River) and walked towards the deer fence [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367817">3367817</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367808">3367808</a>]]. This deer fence has very recently been extended to protect Coill' a Chorra Ghoirtein (Wood of the Corncrake), which has been cleared of invasive Rhododendron and had extensive replanting of native species. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367974">3367974</a>]]. <br />
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Walking was quite easy across to the ruined farmstead Corra Ghoirtein - an apt name for a farm in an area once heavily populated by this now rare farmland bird. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367807">3367807</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367856">3367856</a>]]. From here we continued SE, turning back to view the ruined farmstead [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367867">3367867</a>]] and, in the distance (and not viewable on any photo), the distinct outline of Dubh Artach lighthouse. We followed the lower, north and north-eastern slopes of Maol nan Caorach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367881">3367881</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367957">3367957</a>]] and then detoured eastwards to view the frozen Loch a' Chnuic Bhric (Loch of the Speckled Hill),[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367863">3367863</a>]], from where we flushed a solitary Teal. <br />
<br />
We were now on the eastern side of Maol nan Caorach (for which I have been unable to find a translation so it's 'Rounded Hill of [something]') [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367950">3367950</a>]] and continued through thick heather [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367876">3367876</a>]]. We were rewarded here by views of three species of raptors - a male Hen Harrier quartering the area, a Buzzard which was mobbing a Golden Eagle. It did not peservere for long however. The King of the Air soon left it behind and we watched as it flew westwards, staying in our binocular vision for about a couple of minutes before disappearing over Cnoc Breac.<br />
<br />
Looking back we could see the southern end of Loch a' Chnuic Bhric (which spans two gridsquares) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367880">3367880</a>]]. We ascended the western slopes of Maol Bun an Uillt, passing an old boundary line [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367878">3367878</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367815">3367815</a>]] in order to step into the next gridsquare. From here we obtained what would have been a glorious view of the valley, through which the Abhainn Ghlas (Grey River) flows [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367803">3367803</a>]] and in the distant south-east, Loch Drolsay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367827">3367827</a>]].<br />
<br />
We descended now to the river where we paused for lunch. The river was still slightly frozen from our recent frosts [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367882">3367882</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367875">3367875</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367804">3367804</a>]]. I looked back from whence we'd come [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367781">3367781</a>]] before we plodded on to our next destination - another ruin. This was not visible until we were almost on top of it. Called, intriguingly Coille Mhòr (Big Forest), this old farmstead has no signs of cultivation nearby - nor existing evidence of any woodland. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367780">3367780</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367809">3367809</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367823">3367823</a>]]. The farmstead is also known as Bealach-na-guala (Gap of the brow of the hill) which makes more sense as the old farmstead is located at the foot of several small hills. The interior is now covered with heather which caused us to muse on the length of time since its inhabitation.<br />
<br />
We lingered here a while before heading north-west onto the bealach of Maol na Sròine and Maol na Coille. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367814">3367814</a>]] Conveniently for us, the deer gate here was open [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367959">3367959</a>]] and the sun was now out, typically at the end of the walk! I took advantage of the emerging sunshine to photograph the terrain now covered [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367811">3367811</a>]] and that still to come [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367819">3367819</a>]] and Maol na Sròine (translation uncertain) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367852">3367852</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367946">3367946</a>]].<br />
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We were suddenly welcomed by a farm track in the bealach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367877">3367877</a>]] and watched a small flock of Twite, a typical farmland bird which reminded us that we were approaching civilisation. As we summited Maol na Sròine, we looked across to Loch Gruinart, one of Islay's two sea lochs [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3367873">3367873</a>]] and thus, our destination - one of our parked cars.<br />
text/html2013-03-05T19:32:01+00:00Becky Williamson55.798946877882 -6.285811612104In search of ancient Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/180
Three very amateur archaeologists set off in search of a variety of features shown on the Ordnance Survey map off what is known locally as the 'back road' to Gruinart. We were so amateur that we did not really know what the words in fancy writing indicated: - 'hut circles', 'burnt mounds' and 'tumuli' all had to be looked up and pages printed off from Scotland's Places website before we ventured forth into the unknown at Lagstoban [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349219">3349219</a>]]. For once I wasn't after gaining new gridsquares as I had already 'bagged' these. I was, however, constantly checking my GPS to ensure we knew exactly when we'd reached the sites in question, the terrain often presenting some 'false alarms!'<br />
<br />
A herd of cows at Lagstoban meant a complicated detour round Loch Meadhon [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349189">3349189</a>]]. We paused to admire an old ruin west of Lagstoban [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3358047">3358047</a>]] and from there it wasn't far to the hut circle [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349235">3349235</a>]] which was really quite obvious when you knew what to look for [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349201">3349201</a>]]. The hut circle was last visited by The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, who said that 'This is a hut circle on level ground in a area of early modern land use. It measures 8.3m by 7.0m within a wall 0.7m high and spread to 2.5m broad; substantial stone is visible in the general turf cover. The entrance is in the east arc on the longer axis. <br />
Just off the north exterior of the hut is an open-ended enclosure, rectangular to rounded in shape, measuring 7.0m NW-SE by 6.5m over a wall reduced to a turf-covered rubble spread 2.0m wide by 0.4m high. Near the hut circle is walling of probable contemporary land use, but as it occurs within later cultivation, no field pattern is apparent. <br />
<br />
Then it was on to the tumuli which I'm afraid turned out to be a bit of a disappointment. We saw several 'tumuli' possibilities before we saw the real ones - slightly elevated mounds in the grassland [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349223">3349223</a>]]. Last surveyed in 1984 the tumuli or barrows 'lie 26m apart on Cnoc nan Nathrach. The larger is 9.3m in diameter and 0.7m high; and the smaller 4.5m in diameter and and 0.4m high. <br />
<br />
<br />
Two probable ditched bowl barrows, situated on the crest of a low, broad turf covered knoll at approximately 30m OD. <br />
A: NR 2982 6462 The larger, has overall measurements as stated, with only superficial disturbance to its top, and the crop mark of a 0.5m wide silted ditch surrounding it. A linear east-west field bank curving around its southern half appears a later feature. <br />
B: NR 2583 6465 The smaller, dimensions as stated, again has a cropmark of a 0.5m wide ditch. Its eastern half is badly mutilated, exposing a small stone core with compacted earth capping. <br />
Surveyed at 1:10000 <br />
Visited by OS (J R L) 8 May 1978. <br />
<br />
On the broad summit of Cnoc nan Nathrach there are two barrows situated 26m apart, the larger measuring 9.3m in<br />
diameter and 0.7m in height and the smaller 4.5m in diameter and 0.4m in height. Both of them have been<br />
disturbed.<br />
RCAHMS 1984' (Information from Scotland's Places website)<br />
<br />
After this tiny walk we strolled back to the car where we picked up our lunch things and set off up the Borichill track to examine the fort. This proved extremely interesting. The fort is situated on top of Borichill Mor [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349198">3349198</a>]]. Scotland's Places records 'The dun on Borichill Mor is roughly circular, with a diameter of 100ft to 130ft. There is much exposed stone on the S and W side. A cairn occupies the summit. <br />
M L Davies 1959. <br />
<br />
The top of Borichill Mor is also the site of an ornamental tower, built about 150 years ago (ie. about 1730). Local informants can remember when much of it was standing, but it has been demolished and the best stones removed. The name "Borchill" (sic) is said to have originally applied to the fort. <br />
Name Book 1878. <br />
<br />
On the summit of Borichil Mor are the scant remains of a fort measuring about 36.0m NW-SE by 27.0m internally. The wall is traceable for most of the periphery as a robber trench accompanied by a light scatter of rubble core material; on the west side are several massive outer facing stones. A transverse slab in the south-west arc probably indicates the north side of an entrance. A modern cairn occupies the highest point of the hill; there are no certain remains of the ornamental tower noted on Name Book. <br />
Surveyed at 1:10 000. <br />
Visited by OS (N K B) 19 April 1979; Information from RCAHMS to OS.<br />
<br />
Little now survives of a small fort situated 3.3km NW of Bridgend on the summit of Borraichill Mor, a prominent hill which affords panoramic views over much of Islay. The immediate approach to the site is over gentle slopes on all sides except the S, where there is a rocky scarp. The dilapidated condition of the fort was probably caused by the construction of an ornamental tower on the hilltop in the early 18th century; about a hundred years later the tower was demolished, and the site was stripped of its stone.(Ordnance Survey Name Book 1878) In spite of the damage, however, the course of the fort wall, which enclosed an oval area measuring about 36m by 27m, can still be traced almost throughout its original circuit, appearing for the most part as a robber-trench accompanied by a light spread of rubble core-material; but the few massive outer facing-stones, measuring up to 1.8m by 0.6m by 0.6m, that remain in situ, as indicated on the plan, suggest that it was a very substantial structure. A transverse slab on the SW probably represents a part of the rw side-wall of the entrance-passage.<br />
RCAHMS 1984<br />
<br />
We certainly appreciated the panoramic views afforded from the summit of this modest hill before turning to gaze eastwards at the very prominent hut circles [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349216">3349216</a>]] which we descended to examine at closer quarters and found a myriad tiny lichens adorning the banks of these erstwhile dwellings.<br />
<br />
With one more destination I clutched my GPS and negotiated tussocks and burns until we arrived at my first ever (knowing) burnt mound (probably a cooking area - very likely with all these ancient dwelling places dotted round the vicinity). [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3349268">3349268</a>]] Again, Scotland's Places records 'At NR 3164 6452, on the south bank of a stream, is a burnt mound. It is crescentic, the open end facing onto the stream, and measures some 9.0 by 11.0m across and 1.3m high. Probing of the heather overgrowth reveal an admixture of black earth and friable fragments of reddened stone. There are hut circles in the general neighbourhood. <br />
<br />
This would almost certainly have gone unnoticed by the previous Becky (oblivious to ancient history whilst totally immersed in natural history). I shall certainly have my eyes wider open whilst reading the terrain in future! It proved a very interesting, if short, walk.text/html2013-02-28T08:24:54+00:00Becky Williamson55.776521432413 -6.4110134591838Sunderland hinterland, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/178
At last the sun was out again and after several ramblings with other very patient people, I decided the time had come to venture out on my own again. There's only so many times that the words 'OK folks we're in a new square', can remain exciting to anyone other than a dedicated Geographer!<br />
<br />
I worked out a route from Burnside, Bruichladdich, northwards to Gleann na h-Uamha and hopefully reaching the intriguing Dun na h-Uamha, north-eastwards to Loch Treunaidh and south again to join a track to Conisby - which I'd learnt from past experience, may or may not have been still in existence (many a marked track on the Islay map has proved to be no longer extant).<br />
<br />
Starting in suburban Burnside estate it wasn't long before I had left civilisation far behind as I walked towards Gartacharra farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346872">3346872</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347436">3347436</a>]]. The sky was cloudless and I rued the fact I'd forgotten my sunhat and wondered if it had been worth bringing my polariser after all. From behind the farm a wonderful view is afforded of Loch Indaal and Islay's eastern hills. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346886">3346886</a>]] Then there is the impressive standing stone - the first time I'd seen it (I'm not sure if it is visible from the road; I like to think not!) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347432">3347432</a>]].<br />
<br />
The track gradually comes to a halt. I was glad of the severe frost as it meant the ground was hard enough to walk across; it would have been terribly muddy normally. So I departed from the track and had to make my own paths, which turned out to be quite circuitous as there are no distinguishing features over the next few gridsquares. I ended up going further west than I needed to (my initial destination being Dun na h-Uamha). After watching some deer negotiate a fence I wisely decided to follow them and limboed underneath my first fence of the day into tussocky, heather-clad moorland [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346908">3346908</a>]]. I glanced behind me at a sun soaked Conisby and Loch Indaal [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347477">3347477</a>]] and then I looked despondently across to Cnoc na h-Uamha [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346865">3346865</a>]], took a deep breath and went for it, looking anxiously at the many black lines on the map which indicated boundaries of some sort. Fortunately some of these turned out to be old boundary lines, for which I have rather a fondness [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346879">3346879</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346888">3346888</a>]]. Unfortunately, not all of them are old and I had to clamber over two barbed wire fences on this walk - my first one here at Cnoc na h-Uamha [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346867">3346867</a>]] afforded uninterrupted views north-eastwards towards the Paps of Jura across an autumnal scene of rich browns [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346831">3346831</a>]].<br />
<br />
I told myself I would only stop once I'd reached Dun na h-Uamha but I just couldn't get my bearings here. It was difficult reading the landscape whilst labouring through thick heather and bog and reading the map and GPS. Hence my ascending a gratuitous hill, getting rather despondent that I couldn't find my dun and then, lo and behold the most glorious vista met my eyes quite unexpectedly. Who would have thought there'd be a house out here on top of a hill and one that for the life of me I hadn't seen marked on the map which I'd been scrutinising for the past couple of hours? Joy of joys! This would be my coffee stop. Forget stupid old duns! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347489">3347489</a>]] I sat blissfully for some time, soaking up sunshine, singing away and recovering from my gruelling walk so far - and, of course, looking at the map to see what further treasures lay before me. Whoever used to live here had a fantastic view [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347471">3347471</a>]].<br />
<br />
Leaving the ruin behind I descended into Gleann na h-Uamha,[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347914">3347914</a>]] still half looking for the dun, but the steep sides of the valley are covered in scrubby woodland,[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346876">3346876</a>]], making the descent even more difficult and I could hear running water in the bottom of the valley so knew there was some body of water to cross. I disturbed some deer as I finally reached the soggy valley bottom. I was closer than I thought to the dun [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346884">3346884</a>]] but didn't realise it at the time.<br />
<br />
From here I headed north as directly as I could, having to retrace my steps several times in order to find the line of least resistance across the water strewn valley bottom. I crossed one barbed wire fence [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346870">3346870</a>]] and one old boundary line [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347883">3347883</a>]] and walked through large areas of burnt heather [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347467">3347467</a>]], sadly the result of a deliberate or negligent fire last year. Then I had to jump across a narrow burn - Allt Ban (Pale Burn) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346861">3346861</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346862">3346862</a>]]. Here was my second surprise of the day - another unlikely ruin. Yes, it was marked on the map and again I had failed to spot it, but these surprises really make the day more memorable. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346912">3346912</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347927">3347927</a>]].<br />
<br />
Sunderland Hill [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347460">3347460</a>]] is now clearly visible, interrupted only by a vast expanse of marshland [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347484">3347484</a>]]. A slight climb across more burnt heather [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347840">3347840</a>]] revealed a beautiful dry stone wall [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347919">3347919</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347462">3347462</a>]] which remained in view throughout the rest of the walk. I was heading now to Loch Treunaidh across bog and marsh, interrupted by the occasional elevated (and welcome) knoll of rock and heather [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346854">3346854</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346859">3346859</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347831">3347831</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346860">3346860</a>]]. A rocky knoll with a view of what remains of Loch Treunaidh was my lunch spot [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346892">3346892</a>]]. I admit to being a little disappointed by the loch. It consisted largely of a medium-sized reedbed. <br />
<br />
After lunch I crossed the wall [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347837">3347837</a>]] and obtained glorious views towards both Loch Indaal [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347847">3347847</a>]] and Loch Gruinart [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347900">3347900</a>]]. I was now hoping to join the track which led towards Conisby and lo and behold it was there, by some moorland pools [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347482">3347482</a>]], faint at first, [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347888">3347888</a>]], but becoming more distinct [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347845">3347845</a>]] until I reached the first of two gates [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347441">3347441</a>]], then the final stretch of track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3346866">3346866</a>]], a second gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3347440">3347440</a>]] into Conisby itself and thus to the end of my walk.text/html2013-02-24T21:56:21+00:00Becky Williamson55.909225329312 -6.2179272300583A Walk towards Bolsa, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/177
Once again I was caught out with the weather. This really is a walk to do on a cold, crisp winter's day before the bracken, midges and tourists are out in force! We can say it snowed without lying, although it wasn't exactly blizzard conditions! But whilst my last walk was in relentless sunshine (for which I suffered a headache, not having taken my sunhat), the sun only made an appearance when the last car door was closed at the end of the walk - and I'd taken my sunhat! Of course! And my 'good' camera - which meant I didn't have a close enough zoom for the magnificent views of the otter we had at the half way mark. Typical!<br />
<br />
We started at Gortantoid trigpoint, somewhere I'd visited before in sunnier conditions. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2414198">2414198</a>]] and followed the coastline north-eastwards towards Bolsa, hoping to reach the caves at the very north of the island. It really is a fascinating stretch of coastline, dotted with caves and natural arches and waterfalls round every bend (of which there are a lot), down every hill (of which there are a lot!) and back up every hill (of which there are a lot!). So you've gathered, there's lots of undulation on this walk if you insist (as I did) on following the coastline religiously. ('Yes, there's a track but it's nowhere near as interesting' for which read 'Yes, there's a track but it doesn't go through the gridsquares I need!') My friends know me too well to be fooled by my lie and I did relent and allow us to take the path (which actually only goes some of the way) on the way back.<br />
<br />
Enough preamble, from the trigpoint we came upon a tiny lochan which was covered with a thin layer of ice [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345019">3345019</a>]]. the rocky coastline follows a north-easterly course with inlets and beaches [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345065">3345065</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345077">3345077</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345059">3345059</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345056">3345056</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345034">3345034</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345025">3345025</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345015">3345015</a>]], caves, [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345071">3345071</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345061">3345061</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3344974">3344974</a>]] and natural arches [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021">3345021</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345047">3345047</a>]]. My favourite vista was the furthest north. having left the weary others behind for my final gridsquare of the day, I scaled a cliff face (!) up yet another hill and came upon this view [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345069">3345069</a>]] - well worth the extra climb! On the way back I was pleased to visit the fragments of the Doodilbeg ruin - a name which had long intrigued me on the map, which consists of the largish remains of a house [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3344989">3344989</a>]] and, about 50 metres SW, two corn drying kilns. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3344998">3344998</a>]]. For more information on these ruins, visit <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=83011" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=83011">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span>. <br />
<br />
What a shame that as well as natural wonders, this coastline (and sadly all of Islay's coastline) is also littered with unnatural 'wonders' [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345041">3345041</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345032">3345032</a>]]. It's difficult to walk past without doing a beach clean en route, but it would take all day and more folk - anyone up for the task?text/html2012-10-26T21:14:03+00:00Becky Williamson55.725332639199 -6.0705592405521Circumnavigation of Beinn Bheigier, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/161
An 8 and a half mile circular walk, starting at Ardtalla, circumnavigating Beinn Bheigier (Islay's highest mountain) in an anti-clockwise direction, following Gleann Leòra and the Claggain River to Claggain Bay and walking back up the road to Ardtalla.<br />
<br />
Spectacular views of the Sound of Islay and Islay's eastern range of hills. Quite difficult terrain, although quad bike tracks are followable most of the way round Beinn Bhaigier and deer tracks along the Claggain River. I did the walk in 6 and a quart hours - a record for me! You can see this trip plotted on a map on the Geo-trips page <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://users.aber.ac.uk/ruw/misc/geotrip_show.php?osos&trip=458" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://users.aber.ac.uk/ruw/misc/geotrip_show.php?osos&trip=458">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span> .text/html2012-10-26T20:52:47+00:00Becky WilliamsonCircumnavigation of Beinn Bheigier, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/160
This was a walk I'd wanted to do in a long time, not so much the circumnavigation of Beinn Bheigier, but walking the length of Gleann Leòra. I love walking Islay's glens and this one is no exception.<br />
<br />
Starting at Ardtalla in full sunshine I began following the well-worn track to Proaig, a place I have visited several times. The bulk of Beinn Bheigier, Islay's highest mountain, before me [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194617">3194617</a>]]. I remembered the fork in the track, but had never taken the higher of the two [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193176">3193176</a>]], which leads to a convenient gap in the fence [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194704">3194704</a>]] and continues round the eastern flanks of the mountain. Clear blue skies provided ideal photo opportunities. I love the way this mountain reveals different faces from different aspects. Here is its easternmost summit [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194760">3194760</a>]].<br />
<br />
From this height you can view Proaig and the Sound of Islay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193168">3193168</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193093">3193093</a>]]. This was not my destination today, however. I struck off westwards and thence lost the sunshine as I walked in the shadow of the bulk of the mountain. The track continued, however, and I followed it [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193890">3193890</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193890">3193890</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194749">3194749</a>]], looking west to Beinn Bheigier [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193085">3193085</a>]], north towards Glas Bheinn (Grey Mountain), [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194630">3194630</a>]] and east across moorland pools to the Sound of Islay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193151">3193151</a>]].<br />
<br />
I deliberately went out of my way to just step into the more northerly grid square, still green, [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193692">3193692</a>]], and obtained fantastic views into the Gleann Srath nam Bothag (Glen of the valley with the river (Strath) of the Ringed Plover or bothy. As Proaig bothy is situated at the river's mouth it seems likely this is the translation, rather than Ringed Plover as this is unlikely habitat for that coastal bird.) The Abhainn Phroaig (Proaig River) runs through this valley, now looking very autumnal, dressed in gold and russet. I was glad of the dead bracken - always a hindrance on this type of walk in summer. Across the valley cloudless Glas Bheinn stood tall at its slightly lower 472 m [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193440">3193440</a>]]. A tributary of the Proaig river flowed noisily down these northern slopes of Beinn Bheigier to join the main river far below. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193149">3193149</a>]] and from here I looked back for a final view of the Sound of Islay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193063">3193063</a>]] and then turned my face westwards in the direction of travel towards Am Màm. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3192233">3192233</a>]]. I would be walking between this lower summit of Glas Bheinn and the higher Beinn Bheigier.<br />
<br />
I decided to try to reach Loch a' Mhuilinn-ghaoithe [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194768">3194768</a>]] for lunch, but then decided it was far too windy and cold there and I would descend a bit into the valley before stopping. A last look at Glas Bheinn revealed a tantalising glimpse of Loch Allallaidh [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194748">3194748</a>]], around which I'd walked on my ascent of Glas Bheinn. Eastwards I could now see the western summit of Beinn Bheigier [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193162">3193162</a>]] and far below my first glimpse of Gleann Leòra (Glen of Plenty)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193707">3193707</a>]] enticed me down, not least to get some shelter from the fierce north wind.<br />
<br />
I descended gradually, casting my eye eastwards every so often to the disappearing bulk of Beinn Bheigier [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193693">3193693</a>]] and then downwards to the glen itself [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193076">3193076</a>]]. Faint, stony tracks were welcome and provided stability underfoot [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193881">3193881</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193878">3193878</a>]]. Looking back the clouds had begun to swirl and gather [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193128">3193128</a>]] at the head of the glen - a welcome addition to the featureless sky, as this boulder was on otherwise pretty tedious terrain [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193697">3193697</a>]]. I gradually made my way down to the river itself, the Claggain River which would eventually find its outlet at Claggain Bay [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193106">3193106</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194734">3194734</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194776">3194776</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194756">3194756</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194744">3194744</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194784">3194784</a>]], and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194745">3194745</a>]]. I was keen to find the footbridge marked on the 1:25 000 OS map, and did find it, but was glad I hadn't relied on it to cross the river, because it looks like it collapsed long ago [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193705">3193705</a>]]. In fact, despite many twists and turns in the river, it wasn't necessary to cross to the southern side of the river at all. I chose to follow the river closely to avoid walking through more bog. There are deer tracks through the bracken at points, which would be more difficult to find in the height of the summer, but for the most part, there are good tracks to follow for the whole of this walk.<br />
<br />
As the river winds its way eastwards towards the coast, small copses of woodland adorn its bank [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194738">3194738</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193080">3193080</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194742">3194742</a>]]. The sight of the ruined fence is reassuring - a sign you are nearly at Claggain. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193699">3193699</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193113">3193113</a>]]. I followed this fence and the banks of the River [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194780">3194780</a>]], stopping to admire the scarlet red-berried Rowan tree [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3194727">3194727</a>]] and to look back the way I'd come [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193703">3193703</a>]], back towards Beinn Bheigier, now viewed from the south-east [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193694">3193694</a>]]. I was glad to reach a more veritable path and gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3193164">3193164</a>]], which marked the end of the walk, or at least the last half a mile or so was along the opt-holed road from Claggain to Ardtalla - hard underfoot, but at least you don't have to think before taking the next step - a welcome break after 8 miles!<br />
<br />
Although this walk is only about 8 and a half miles, it took me 6 and a quarter hours. This was actually fast for me! It was cold, it got cloudy and I didn't see much to photograph (other than all these grid squares of course!)text/html2012-07-19T07:32:42+00:00Becky WilliamsonThree Ferries and Seven Burns - Walk to Proaig and McArthur's Head, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/143
I hadn't dared hope for more than just a dry day when Jim (our pastor) suggested a walk at the weekend. After all we'd already had three glorious days of sunshine in a row - we couldn't ask for too much, now could we?<br />
<br />
The day dawned not quite as bright as the previous three days, but definitely dry enough for our planned walk to the erstwhile village of Proaig on the Sound of Islay. The sun made much more of an appearance as the day went on, however, and it ended up yet another glorious day and I was so glad we'd made the most of the opportunity. It was the first proper walk I'd been on in what seems like ages (with decent weather that is - I did go to Glengarrisdale on Jura a few weeks ago)<br />
<br />
We started at Ardtalla, which is where the road ends on Islay's south-east coast, and watched the 0945 ferry, now well into its passage to Kennacraig. There are several burns to cross on this walk. After the one at Ardtalla [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3042172">3042172</a>]], the next one crosses Allt an t-Sidhein [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3038877">3038877</a>]]. The track then leads into square NR4656 [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3038885">3038885</a>]], but you have to watch for it or you'll miss it before it descends into a wood and up again and across another burn, this time the Allt nam Bodach (Burn of the Old Man)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3038892">3038892</a>]]. The final one is across Allt nan Gad [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3039315">3039315</a>]]. 'Gad' translates from Gaelic as either 'twisted twig', 'switch', 'the number of fish as carried home on a string or withe' or 'bend on anything'. I suppose any of these could be appropriate in this case!<br />
<br />
The ATV path thus far had been quite distinct, although at times there was a fork and it wasn't clear which you should take - we tended to choose the one closest to the coast. Whilst the path sometimes led through boggy ground, it was not as wet as I have seen it in the past (admittedly that's not saying a lot!) After crossing Allt nan Gad we were anxious to get down to the coast, so followed the next burn down. At least we thought it was a burn; it turned out to be the Abhainn Torr a' Mhuilinn (River of the Hill of the Mill) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3039607">3039607</a>]] which broadens at its mouth [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3039598">3039598</a>]]. There is no longer any evidence (that we could see) of a mill here. The Rubha Biorach can be seen in the photo. This translates as either 'Dog-fish Point' (I think the most likely), 'Two-year old heifer Point', 'Year old horse Point' or other similar animal translations.<br />
<br />
We walked as quietly as we could along this stony shore, but were disturbing Rock Pipits, Reed Bunting, Wheatear and, of course, Oystercatcher and Ringed Plover. Our hope of seeing otter was seriously diminished, despite the fact that the wind, blowing from the north would not be carrying our scent. I think you immediately lessen your chances of seeing this animal with a group of more than one person anyway! I've tended to see them when out walking on my own, not thinking about it!<br />
<br />
The re-roofed shepherd's cottage had been visible for some distance and now as we approached it, if we hadn't got the map, we wouldn't have known there was still one more barrier between us and this haven - yet another river. The biggest yet. All that ford crossing was preparation for the Abhainn Phroaig, which was fine for those of us in wellies (or it would have been if one of us didn't discover a leak at that point!), but not so fine for Jim in his walking boots. There is a sort of bridge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3039896">3039896</a>]] further upstream, but we opted to cross near its mouth where there are plenty of 'stepping stones'. From here the bothy looked enticing [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3040127">3040127</a>]]. It had been re-roofed since my last visit [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1746894">1746894</a>]]. Proaig translates from Old Norse as 'Broad Bay'. Its history dates back to 1506 when 6 cowlands were granted to John MacIan in recognition that his father had held them from Alexander Earl of Ross. In 1722 it was recognised as 'a toun very beneficial for pasturage; good for fattening and nourishing cattle', but by 1878 all that remained (and that remains now) is a shepherd's house. (Information from Islay The Land of Lorship by David Caldwell)<br />
<br />
We lingered at the bothy for some time, munching our lunch and discussing the pros and cons of staying the night here (for future reference!) I decided it would be very noisy on all but the quietest of nights, but there was a cosy fireplace, a little Ardbeg Whisky and some peat -who could ask for anything more! <br />
<br />
We'd decided we would continue on to McArthur's Head and that we would do so along the shore. So we walked along one of Islay's most beautiful beaches [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3040131">3040131</a>]] and crossed yet another burn, The Allt a' Ghlinne Dhuibh (Burn of the Black Glen) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3040133">3040133</a>]]. It was difficult walking underfoot across stones of various sizes and states of slipperiness. Lorna was quite content searching in rockpools and was often lingering behind whilst Jim and I found a conveniently placed tree trunk or stone to sit on and wait.<br />
<br />
There are several caves dotted along this coastline [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3041217">3041217</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3041223">3041223</a>]] and we watched Shags flying up to their nests high on the cliffs below the lighthouse. Round every bend we expected to see the lighthouse, but you actually don't see it until you're literally beneath it, straining your neck upwards. You still have to round Rubh' a' Phuill at this point (possibly 'Point of Turning') [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3041381">3041381</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3041416">3041416</a>]], a rather dramatic natural arch/cave just beneath the lighthouse. A very steep and scary set of steps leads up to this white-washed lighthouse, gleaming in the afternoon sun [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3041441">3041441</a>]]. We waited for the 1530 hours ferry to sail past and took many photos. (Unfortunately in my excitement every single one was shot on ISO 1600 and therefore not much use!)<br />
<br />
We opted for the 'high road' for our return route, which meant lots of bracken and heather, but glorious views [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3042019">3042019</a>]]. The view of the beach north of Proaig was especially worth all the ticks! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3042047">3042047</a>]] We watched the 1800 ferry leave Port Ellen before we arrived back at the car - the only time I can recall having seen all three ferries in one walk!text/html2012-04-22T17:19:46+00:00Becky Williamson55.784861957127 -6.1725355086533Barradale Circular, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/119
I was excited as I set off on the day's plan C. Plan A had been abandoned as it was just too photogenic a day to go to a certain village on Islay which I won't mention for fear of insulting the hundreds of folks (!) who read these blogs! Plan B had been abandoned after driving 15 miles to Ardbeg in the thickening cloud which turned into heavy rain and which was no doubt a retribution for rejecting Plan A. So Plan C had to be put into operation. But first to devise Plan C as it wasn't in existence. The rain had passed and it was once more a beautiful day but I didn't feel like driving far so I got my colour coded map out and decided to visit an area which I hadn't visited before. Hard to believe I know!<br />
<br />
I don't know if it's known locally as Barradale, but other names on the map seem to suggest it and it's such a beautiful sounding name that I've adopted it for the purpose of my geographs and this blog. It is situated on the west side of what is known as the 'Glen' Road which runs from bridgend to Ballygrant in the north of the island.<br />
<br />
I started at Cattadale Farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2403055">2403055</a>]] where the sight and sound of someone cutting the grass reinforced my feelings about this spring day. (Needless to say the photo I've linked to here was not taken today!). I walked through a gap in the conifer plantation to the Barr River where I sat for my lunch. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910641">2910641</a>]]<br />
<br />
Crossing the river I walked directly northwards to the first of many ruins I'd see today. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910602">2910602</a>]] I couldn't see the other ruins marked on the map, but they may have been very low and covered by vegetation, so I continued northwards to the deciduous woodland marked on the map. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910607">2910607</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910626">2910626</a>]]. This woodland is more extensive than the map shows, but it is relatively easy to find your way through, crossing a small tributary of the Barr Vier on the way. Willow Warblers and Chaffinchs were calling incessantly as I ducked branches in this pretty woodland.<br />
<br />
Out on the moorland once again, the song of the Willow Warbler was replaced by that of Curlews and Skylark - such beautiful sounds of spring. I was farther west than I wanted to be to see the next ruin, so waded through long grass to the next ruin [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910589">2910589</a>]], one which stood on its own and therefore seemed all the more poignant.<br />
<br />
The next settlement comprises quite a few buildings,[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910623">2910623</a>]], including one with a high gable [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910631">2910631</a>]] and the final settlement in this gridsquare was more extensive still [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910637">2910637</a>]], with one building being conveniently in the next gridsquare (NR3962) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910638">2910638</a>]].<br />
<br />
From here I continued northwards to the dizzy heights of Beinn Bharr-dail, never being sure when I'd reached the summit, but settling for a photo of some sort of marker [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910612">2910612</a>]]. Then I headed down to Loch Bharradail [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910619">2910619</a>]] where there were more ruins [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910616">2910616</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910593">2910593</a>]]. <br />
<br />
Next came the difficult part of the walk. After crossing a civilised stile across the first fence I'd come across, and then having no further boundaries, I could see three more fences between me and the road - and boggy ground! There being nothing else for it, I plodded on and used my red foam mat to cross the barbed wire fences (an invaluable piece of rucksack kit). Just before meeting the 'main' road I saw two interesting formations in the fields here [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910604">2910604</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2910576">2910576</a>]]. I assume they're part of the lead workings in NR3963.<br />
<br />
Plodding down the last two miles of tar-mac was not a thought I relished so I was relieved when a farmer stopped to give me a lift. 'I wondered whose the car was,' he said when I told him where I'd parked. 'I've seen it before along here.' 'Yes,' I admitted, 'I'm often out this way for a walk!'text/html2012-04-20T14:25:23+00:00Becky Williamson55.873928855588 -6.1980958404978Giur-bheinn Circular, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/118
As always, I had scrutinised the weather forecast for days before deciding to head up Giùr-bheinn on Wednesday, 18th April 2012. As always, the forecast was not quite accurate, but at least I didn't end up getting drenched as our church party did on their walk on the same day on the Rhinns (my symapthies to them of course!)<br />
<br />
Giùr-bheinn is a fascinating, if diminutive, mountain. Viewed from the east, as it generally is, it appears as a gentle mound, hardly noticeable in mountain terms. From the north and west, however, the beast awakens, and reveals its formidable nature in its precipitous and craggy slopes. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1740508">1740508</a>]] So it's a Jekyll and Hyde of a mountain; I have only ascended it twice and have not yet encountered Mr Hyde!<br />
<br />
I started from my familiar car park at Bunnahabhain and wandered up the forest track[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836896">2836896</a>]], crossing the Abhainn Araig by the bridge the army reconstructed several years ago [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026252">2026252</a>]]. It's just under a mile's walk to the deer fence and gate that enters the forest [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026237">2026237</a>]] and I never feel I've begun my walk until I'm actually entering this forest. I'm not keen on walking through conifer plantations. After the vast, open (if rhododendron-invaded) moorland, I get claustrophobic entering the dense, tall forest. I'd seen a male Hen Harrier quartering the moorland before entering the forest and heard Willow Warblers descending the scale in their unique song. Everything had seemed friendly; now, with dark green prickles all around me, the world took on a slightly more sinister appearance.<br />
<br />
Still, I had a 'green' square to find - a relatively easy one at that, so I trod my uneasiness under foot and marched on, taking the northerly fork [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026216">2026216</a>]] at Staoisha Eararach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026227">2026227</a>]] and then the northerly one again at the second fork in the road [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905447">2905447</a>]]. Once in the next grid square (NR3973) I was looking for the ride westwards which led to Cnoc an t-Samhlaidh (Hill of the Resemblance or Ghost!) It was quite easy to find (but for future reference this isn't the easiest way to acces Giùr-bheinn as there is no gate at the top of the ride). I was glad the ground had had chance to dry out a bit after our wet winter; it made walking across this lumpy terrain a lot easier (although never exactly easy at the best of times). Eventually I was out in the open at Cnoc an t-Samhlaidh and took stock of my situation. Northwards there was another ride and a view of Sgarbh Breac (Speckled Cormorant)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905448">2905448</a>]]; back the way I'd come I could just see Jura over the tops of the trees [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905476">2905476</a>]] and ahead of me lay the summit of this small hill and beyond it, my destination, the gentle Giùr-bheinn.[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905481">2905481</a>]]<br />
<br />
Just before exiting the forest I passed one of two small pools [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905663">2905663</a>]], then I had to clamber over a deer fence before stopping to admire an uninterrupted view of my mountain. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905667">2905667</a>]] The Bealach a' Bhearnain seems to translate tautologically as 'Pass of the Gaps' [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905679">2905679</a>]] This would be another pleasant walk across to the west coast. I paused for a coffee at Loch Giùr-bheinn, a loch I'd not seen since my winter walk there in 2010. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905703">2905703</a>]] It looked very different in the day's glorious sunshine.<br />
<br />
As I continued westwards and upwards I looked north to the 'Pass of the Gaps' and the hills beyond [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905711">2905711</a>]] before committing myself to the slow trudge up the hill before me. It is not a difficult climb, however, and before long, I was at the cairn-topped summit looking across the the Paps of Jura [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905765">2905765</a>]].<br />
<br />
The hardest part of my walk was still ahead of me and I could see without using binoculars that the ground I was intending walking across was still very boggy. I headed south-east towards Loch nan Eun (Loch of the Birds) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905844">2905844</a>]], passing a former boundary on my way [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905839">2905839</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905850">2905850</a>]]. From the corner of the deer fence which I decided to stick close to, I could see Giùr-bheinn's distant heights now well behind me. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905852">2905852</a>]]<br />
<br />
I was pleased to find the old shielings marked on the map [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905857">2905857</a>]] and decided to have my lunch here. In the distance, to the south-east, I could see Balulive Farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026162">2026162</a>]] from whence I'd set out on a previous geographing trip. I mused on the fact that, on that occasion, I was merely walking from Balulive to Bunnahabhain (what I considered a goodish walk) and that I wasn't even at the start of that walk yet today! It doesn't do to ponder on negativity though, so I kept putting one foot in front of the other, wondering if one of the rides marked on the map would be accessible (ie, if there was a gate through anywhere). The answer was repeatedly 'no' [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026162">2026162</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905868">2905868</a>]] so I just kept going, crossing the Allt a' Chròth Earraich [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905877">2905877</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905902">2905902</a>]], following the deer fence [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905891">2905891</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905896">2905896</a>]] till I finally reached a lovely waterfall in the burn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2905907">2905907</a>]] just before reaching the track near Balulive.<br />
<br />
Crossing the stile, I was back on the track and back into the forest. I passed Staoisha [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2026191">2026191</a>]] and trudged the last weary couple of miles back to the car.text/html2012-04-08T21:19:31+00:00Becky Williamson55.770144325796 -6.0752355444119Storakaig to the Sound of Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/114
It wasn't the first time it had happened. XC Weather had got it wrong before. 8% cloud at 10 am had really meant 80% on at least one other occasion. Feeling slightly hard done to, and exchanging my favoured polariser filter for a regular skylight filter, I decided to go for it anyway. Those squares on the east coast of Islay had been waiting long enough!<br />
<br />
The poor lighting meant at least I got further quicker, stopping only to take the requisite photos, and rarely for any additional 'bonus' ones. I walked south from Storakaig, stopping at the redundant sheep dip [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887558">2887558</a>]] and taking advantage of the rapidly disappearing sunshine. I managed a couple more photos as I walked eastwards, before the sun disappeared completely for the rest of the day/weekend/week/month? [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887560">2887560</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887559">2887559</a>]] It was boggy terrain, but, hey!, the past few months walking through sheer bog had given me plenty of experience of bog. I watched a Red Deer Stag somehow get beyond a fence I had yet to negotiate so reckoned it must be doable somehow. Wandering up to the fence I realised it wasn't as high as I'd thought [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887562">2887562</a>]] and I paused before crossing it to take more photos while there was still the last remnant of sunshine. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887563">2887563</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887565">2887565</a>]].<br />
<br />
I continued southwards to the Allt Craobhach (Wooded Burn)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887566">2887566</a>]]. There was not much evidence of woodland anywhere along the section of burn I walked along, but it would have made a prettier walk if there were more sun . . . oh, shut up moaning, Becky! I took a couple of photos here, [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887568">2887568</a>]] and this one showing Sgorr nam Faoileann (Hill of the Common Gulls) on the left and Glas Bheinn (Grey Mountain) on the right - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887567">2887567</a>]].<br />
<br />
I got closer to these two mountains in the next two grid squares as I followed the burn through the Valley - Gleann Coireadail (Glen of the Dale of the Corrie) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887569">2887569</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887930">2887930</a>]] in NR4260 and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887920">2887920</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887944">2887944</a>]] in NR4360. A small moorland pool made an otherwise drab landscape a little more interesting [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888078">2888078</a>]], as did an old boundary wall [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888009">2888009</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888086">2888086</a>]]. This stretched from near the summit of Sgorr nam Faoileann, down to the valley where I was walking, and up to near the summit of Glas Bheinn. Quite incredible!<br />
<br />
Crossing the wall meant crossing into the corrie formed by Glas Bheinn and Beinn na Caillich (Mountain of the Old Woman)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888003">2888003</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888094">2888094</a>]]. It was here that a low grunting noise alerted me to the presence of a pair of Golden Eagles, flying quite low in the circling mist. I could see the upturned 'fingers' of their wings.<br />
<br />
Continuing east, I entered the next grid square, still in the Corrie Glen [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887965">2887965</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888105">2888105</a>]]. Tiny purple milkwort flowers cheered me up in this colourless landscape. I made up my mind to return when the sun shone. I could visualise this being a truly beautiful place.<br />
<br />
There is a corner of land in NR4561, a grid square otherwise dominated by sea. I determined to get into that gridsquare, gratuitous though it was for today's walk. It took some head-down on GPS walking, but I got there and took a boring photo, being very conscious of the steep drop to the sea! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888090">2888090</a>]]. Then I turned back and headed north up the coast to An Cladach bothy, a place I have visited several times before.<br />
<br />
I passed a natural arch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888092">2888092</a>]] and a cave [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888107">2888107</a>]], whilst looking for a suitable and safe place to descend to the coast. I found one just before the mouth of Allt Gleann Choireadail [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888100">2888100</a>]]. I suppose this is where I would have ended up if I hadn't gone for the gratuitous square.<br />
<br />
By now I was very wet and could scarcely see through my binoculars, but I could see figures huddled outside the bothy and plodded on, stopping to take a photo of an unmarked ruin [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887984">2887984</a>]] and making sure I just got into NR4361 to take a photo [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887977">2887977</a>]], knowing that I wouldn't now be ascending Beinn Bhreac as intended, due to the mist which covered the summit.<br />
<br />
Before going into the bothy, I walked out to NR4462 to get a photo of the beach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887995">2887995</a>]]. I was surprised to discover the bothy full of people, both coming and going. I was glad of some respite from the rain and the opportunity to share stories and grab some lunch and a hot cuppa before waving goodbye to those who were staying the night and continuing on my way. I'd revised my route slightly, due to the weather, but was reassured that a group of three guys were not far behind me. It was just reassuring to know there was someone else close by as I couldn't see very far ahead of me.<br />
<br />
I passed the natural arch I'd taken photos of on previous occasions [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887989">2887989</a>]] and then arrived at the mouth of the Abhainn Gleann Logain [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888108">2888108</a>]]. Here I turned westwards, clutching my GPS. Without my GPS this would have been a very difficult walk. I feel confident carrying it with me, although I know it should not replace common sense and a compass. That's why I didn't go up the hill. I satisfied myself instead by wandering a little further south than I needed to, following a tributary of the Abhainn Gleann Logain [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888082">2888082</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888084">2888084</a>]]. There were some steepish ascents here, good muscle work, as I climbed into the next grid square NR4261 [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888102">2888102</a>]] and snapped what I could see - which wasn't much!<br />
<br />
I continued westwards, taking photos of more mist [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887950">2887950</a>]] and finally finding a quad bike track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887981">2887981</a>]] which took me back to the gate at Storakaig. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2887993">2887993</a>]]<br />
<br />
text/html2012-03-30T17:48:57+00:00Becky Williamson55.864422747779 -6.2130621957744Ballimartin to Airigh Mairi Thormaid, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/112
I think it was on the walk before I discovered Geograph that I first saw Màiri Thormaid's shieling. I was more interested at that time in getting to the top of Beinn Bhreac to acquire another Islay trigpoint than I was in remote Islay ruins. Then I discovered Geograph and began to be interested in these old, remote ruins. They are so evocative of a time gone by, of a different way of life and of previous inhabitants of this beautiful island.<br />
<br />
So I set off on a glorious, almost cloud-free day to cover about 11 miles of bog, bog and more bog. Delightful! After all, a walk is not a proper walk unless you've traversed a bog and a river!<br />
<br />
I started just north of Ballimartin Farm, where I'd started a walk a few weeks before. This time I wanted to visit the ruin of Duisker, so I immediately came upon some bog ('Good', I thought optimistically to myself, 'If I don't find any more bog, at least I've satisfied my criteria for a proper walk right at the beginning'. I needn't have worried!) There is an old stone bridge along this 'footpath', a reminder of a time when the track was used much more frequently than it is now. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869438">2869438</a>]].<br />
<br />
Duisker ruin stands prominently a little above the surrounding countryside and looks quite ghostly. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869383">2869383</a>]] From here I followed a muddy track to Baile Tharbhach. I was anxious to visit the Standing Stone which we'd missed on our previous visit here. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869411">2869411</a>]] Nearby there were some sort of ruins but I couldn't find out anything more about them. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869420">2869420</a>]]<br />
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I always get a sense of excitement when entering 'new territory' and this was the case as I approached Pairc Mhor (Big enclosed field), even though it looked just like a vast expanse of marsh on the map - and in fact that's just what it was. I had to squirm through a deer fence before entering this area of bog. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2861655">2861655</a>]] In order to avoid the worst of the bog, I ended up wandering further east than I intended across pretty featureless terrain. I crossed a tiny burn, the outlet from Loch a' Chaorainn (Loch of the third or bottom row of peats)[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869400">2869400</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2869405">2869405</a>]] before noticing some old ruins beneath Tais Bheinn (moist or damp mountain). They provided a point of interest for a photo. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2861654">2861654</a>]] <br />
<br />
My bog-avoidance techniques meant I'd now got to climb Tais Bheinn to get to the next grid square on my list (NR3570). I was supposed to have skirted the southern flanks of this massif! Doing this, however, meant I was rewarded by yet more old buildings. This time possibly an old sheep fank. I've not been able to discover the purpose of this building yet. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2873749">2873749</a>]] From here I could see the west coast of Islay through the valley. The sun was shining brightly on Nave Island, creating an idyllic vista which today was for my eyes only. How wonderful!<br />
<br />
I wanted to dip into NR3570 to bag this green square and waited until I was definitely in it to photograph the little Lochan Broach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870565">2870565</a>]] which nestles beneath Beinn a' Chuirn (Mountain of the cairns). I then came across the first of a few old boundary lines [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870579">2870579</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870585">2870585</a>]]. Looking north I could see the valley which would lead to my destination. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870617">2870617</a>]] Although the valley itself is not named, the burn which runs through it is named after Màiri Thormaid - she must have been some woman! Now all I had to do was follow the burn to the ruin. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870688">2870688</a>]]<br />
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What a delightful place to eat my sandwiches as Màiri Thormaid must have done many times before me. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870696">2870696</a>]] I spent some time here, taking photos and musing on times gone by. But I was still only half way on my walk - and I wanted to take in another gridsquare before heading south. I decided against climbing Beinn Ghibheach (Rough mountain) - tempting though it looked, especially with the Red Deer staring down at me from the summit. I just didn't have time. I'd have to make do with another boundary line for a phto [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870785">2870785</a>]].<br />
<br />
Now for Airigh nan Sidhean with its appealing name - Shieling of the Fairies. Again I'd drawn a blank in trying to find out anything more about the origins of this name. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870801">2870801</a>]] It is a delightful spot, slightly elevated with crags and an amazing view. I saw an early Peacock butterfly here, sheltering in a hollow.<br />
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From here I headed south-east across peat moorland to another craggy outcrop - Carn Meadhonach (Cenmtral cairn) and determined to climb it. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870877">2870877</a>]] The view was worth the gratuitous climb, [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870883">2870883</a>]] - north to Giùr-bheinn (Fennel Mountain), a mountain which looks deceptively innocuous from the east, but much more craggy and daunting from the west. Southwards I could see another landmark for my walk, Loch Carn nan Gall (Loch of the cairn of the rock or stone) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870944">2870944</a>]]. It looked a long way away, but didn't take long to reach. It is quite a long loch and I rested here before starting out on the last stretch of the walk. There is a bit of a dam/sluice at the southern end of the Loch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2870968">2870968</a>]].<br />
<br />
My next landmark was Loch a' Chaorainn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871285">2871285</a>]] which I'd seen from the west earlier in the day. I was now viewing it from the north and walked to its southern end. Soon I came to another old boundary line [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871312">2871312</a>]] and I knew I was on the homeward stretch. By the time I reached the final boundary line - a deer fence very much still in existence - I was too tired to work out whether the gate opened or not, so slithered my way through the top two slats. (Good thing I've been keeping trim through all this walking!) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871326">2871326</a>]]<br />
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Now I was on a veritable path and Ballachlaven Farm soon came into view. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871354">2871354</a>]] Walking through the farmyard I was followed by a friendly collie, hoping for a walk. 'I've had my walk dog,' I reasoned. 'Go home!' which seemed to translate as 'Round up the Sheep!' for that's what the dog proceeded to do! It then followed me along the dusty track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871371">2871371</a>]] until we reached the cattle grid and then it was defeated! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2871380">2871380</a>]]<br />
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This had been one of my favourite walks to date - absolutely stunning views, most of them not posted on Geograph for copyright reasons. Visit my flickr site for more photos!<span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhubarbcrumbleandcustard/sets/72157629329645370/" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhubarbcrumbleandcustard/sets/72157629329645370/">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span><br />
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The circular walk itself involved quite a bit of climbing, bog walking and was about 11 miles in total.text/html2012-03-07T14:51:21+00:00Becky Williamson55.919276623424 -6.1869882677921Bolsa via Bunnahabhain and Beinn Thrasda, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/107
This was another of the many walks I've walked through on the map many times, and which I've done parts of several times. I'd been checking the forecast all week and the day I chose to do it in reality dawned bright with cumulus clouds dotted promisingly across the sky.<br />
<br />
I started from Bunnahbhain, walking down to the deer gate [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836613">2836613</a>]] and then to the Margadale River, which is one of my favourite views on Islay. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836614">2836614</a>]] The walk up to Rubh' a' Mhail lighthouse is one I have done several times; it is always boggy and I was expecting horrendous conditions after all the rainfall of recent months. Either it wasn't that bad or I'm just getting used to walking very slowly, testing each footstep with my stick before commiting to it! It's blanket bog all the way up to the lighthouse and for a time the sun went in [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836615">2836615</a>]] and it started hailstoning. Worryingly, I looked to the northwest, from where the grey clouds scuttled across the sky. Hmmmmm. I hoped the forecast was going to turn out right and it would clear later in the day.<br />
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The quad bike track to the lighthouse is pretty clear most of the way, but if all else fails, you can follow the telegraph poles. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836616">2836616</a>]] There are several fords across the path - the Uisge Fear Fian [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836618">2836618</a>]] and Geal Uisge (White Water) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836621">2836621</a>]] being the two I encountered before turning up by the waterfall on the Geal Uisge [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836619">2836619</a>]].<br />
<br />
I wanted to climb Beinn Thrasda (Gaelic for either 'Horizontal' or 'Diagonal' Mountain) as I'd not done so before and it meant tackling a 'green' square. This meant following deer tracks at best, and making your own tracks at worst [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836623">2836623</a>]]. Beinn Thrasda is situated north-east of Sgarbh Breac (Speckled Cormorant) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836626">2836626</a>]]. I followed Geal Uisge more or less to its source [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836630">2836630</a>]] and then headed directly up Beinn Thrasda. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836703">2836703</a>]].<br />
<br />
By the time I reached the summit, the sun was blazing down, creating a whole spectrum of glorious hues and casting diamonds on the ocean. There was barely a breath of wind at the summit either and I took photos in all directions [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836705">2836705</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836708">2836708</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836710">2836710</a>]] before gradually and carefully descending the steep slopes on the west of the mountain. I'm not good at heights and, to make it worse, it was very slippery underfoot and I nearly fell a few times. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836770">2836770</a>]] Scary or not, I couldn't help stopping to take photos of the glorious vista before me. I had not seen Bagh an Da Dhoruis from this angle before [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836751">2836751</a>]] and the sandy beach beckoned me and had to be resisted - another day maybe!<br />
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I was looking constantly for the ruin of Bolsa (Old Norse for 'farm'). I had not been able to see it even from the summit using binoculars. Where was it? Why couldn't I see it? [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836778">2836778</a>]] Behind me I could see the scree adorned slopes of Beinn Thrasda [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836759">2836759</a>]] and then gradually the lower slopes of Sgarbh Breac were behind me too [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836791">2836791</a>]], but still no Bolsa ahead of me. I reached an old boundary line, marked by iron posts [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836804">2836804</a>]] and there was still no sign of my destination.<br />
<br />
Not until I was virtually upon it, did I catch my first glimpse of this old farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836817">2836817</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836824">2836824</a>]]. At last! I was so excited. It was 13:50 when I reached the ruin and sat down with my lunch, watched only by the occasional Red Deer. In 1542 this land was apparently granted to Hector MacLean on the basis that it had once belonged to his grandfather. Since 1878 it has been a ruin. It was like a summer's day [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836826">2836826</a>]] here right at the north of Islay and I relished the tranquility and solitude for a while before checking the map and heading back south-east.<br />
<br />
I was heading for Gleann nam Meirleach (Valley of the Robbers) through which the Allt Mor flows [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836831">2836831</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836834">2836834</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836838">2836838</a>]]. This was new territory for me and I was delighted to see my first spring migrant, a Red Admiral butterfly. 'From whence camest thou, oh tiny creature? I wish you well.' It flew along the shallow banks of the burn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836841">2836841</a>]] and disappeared before I had time to photograph it.<br />
<br />
Before long I was at Dubh Loch (Black Loch) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836844">2836844</a>]] and I negotiated my way across deep bog round the loch's northern side [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836853">2836853</a>]] and then entered the glen proper [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836857">2836857</a>]]and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836864">2836864</a>]]. Glen of the Robber. I wonder how it got its name. I hope I find someone who can tell me. Before long I could see both west [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836868">2836868</a>]] and east [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836872">2836872</a>]] from the same viewpoint.<br />
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Wanting to return to Loch Mhurchaidh, I took a brief detour for a final stop [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836881">2836881</a>]] before the last leg of my walk. I'd intended to follow the Allt Bhachlaigh to the coast and then head south back to the car, but ahead of me a decent quad bike track ascended Shun Bheinn, marking a way I'd never trod before. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836883">2836883</a>]] I followed the track, which led perilously close to the summit of the hill [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836886">2836886</a>]], but with weary legs, it was not hard to resist the temptation for another (uphill) detour. I trudged on, startling a small herd of Red Deer within a few feet of me.<br />
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Soon I was back in familiar territory, looking back to Shun Bheinn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836888">2836888</a>]] and forward to the gate in the deer fence near the reservoir [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836891">2836891</a>]]. The path is more solid now and I crossed the bridge over the Abhainn Araig [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836894">2836894</a>]] and walked wearily back to where I'd started 6 and a half hours before [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2836896">2836896</a>]]. A walk worth repeating!text/html2012-02-26T08:52:56+00:00Becky Williamson55.678399183867 -6.1293416682287Circular Walk to and from Ardbeg, via Solam, Loch Uigeadail and Tighnaspeur, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/102
The walk started from the phone box at Ardbeg, along the track to Airigh nam Beist and then northwest to Solam, rather than northeast to Loch Iarnan as on a previous walk. Solam is known as the plague village on Islay because it is where plague victims were banished to keep them away from healthy Islay residents [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819347">2819347</a>]]. I have yet to find the carved faces, flat stone and wishing well mentioned by Armin Grewe in his blog: <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.armin-grewe.com/holiday/scotland2004islay/solam.htm" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.armin-grewe.com/holiday/scotland2004islay/solam.htm">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span>. <br />
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The track continues northwards from here and is quite well-defined, until you realise THAT track is actually going up Beinn Sholum. The one marked on the map does not seem to exist. Before ascending Beinn Sholum, however, the track fords a burn [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819390">2819390</a>]] - there are numerous unnamed burns in this part of the island. I wanted to follow the track because, according to the map, it wanders in and out of five grid squares and I wanted to cover them all. I checked the GPS constantly to keep track of where I was whilst 'nimbly' hopping across bog after bog and trying to hold on to camera, walking stick and bicoculars. Basically I skirted the bottom of Beinn Sholum [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819472">2819472</a>]] via this vague track [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819470">2819470</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819475">2819475</a>]], heading for the valley between Beinn Sholum and Leacann a' Chnoic (The broad side of the hill) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819479">2819479</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819675">2819675</a>]]. I had chosen today for walking as the forecast showed it was going to be the best of a mixed bag of weather - it was! I kept stopping to look back and admire the scenery [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819484">2819484</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819488">2819488</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819692">2819692</a>]]<br />
<br />
I joined the burn which flows from Loch Uigeadail, but again appears to have no name, despite being quite a full force [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819617">2819617</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819688">2819688</a>]]. If I wasn't geographing I wouldn't have stopped quite as often to take photos as the views are quite repetitive until you reach Loch Uigeadail - and I was very relieved to do so. I ended up reaching its western corner [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819697">2819697</a>]], instead of its southerly point (where the track shown on the map leads to). A pair of Mallards flew off on my approach, otherwise the Loch was empty - as was the air. Large herds of Red Deer were my only sign of wildlife on this walk, with the exception of two Snipe and a few Ravens.<br />
<br />
I looked for somewhere sheltered to eat lunch, but there was nowhere obvious as I continued walking eastwards, desperate now for food and rest. There is a sluice at the most southerly point of the Loch, which leads into the burn I had followed for some of the way [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819627">2819627</a>]]. I followed the burn south for a bit and then plonked on the grass to eat my lunch before crossing the burn and continuing NNW towards Tighnaspeur. NR4150 is a pretty featureless gridsquare [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819661">2819661</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819651">2819651</a>]]. I relied on the GPS to keep me straight. I kept thinking I was heading south, only to find I was actually heading north - albeit by a few degrees. At least this meant I unintentionally dipped into another gridsquare! - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819609">2819609</a>]] A boulder here makes an attractive feature for a photograph - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819702">2819702</a>]].<br />
<br />
I came upon Tighnaspeur (Sky House) suddenly; I was directly above it [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819637">2819637</a>]] Halleluja! I had expected to see it as a tiny dot in the distance, feel my heart sink and then trudge towards it - so this was a pleasant surprise. What stunning views the residents of this tiny cottage once enjoyed. Surprisingly part of this ruin is still roofed. Perhaps it is used for storage for fishermen or gamekeepers? To the east I could see the twin fortified heights of An Dun and Dun Beag across Loch nan Clach (Loch of the Stone). I spent some time investigating this erstwhile home [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819663">2819663</a>]], finding the fireplace still quite intact [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819652">2819652</a>]]. There appeared to be rusty old bed springs still dotted around the main living quarters too.<br />
<br />
My walk was far from over, however, and I had to press on. Leaving this poignant scene behind me, I headed south, passing Loch nan Clach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819655">2819655</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819621">2819621</a>]] and a distant view of Loch Carn a' Mhaoil - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819706">2819706</a>]]. Knowing it would only obtain supplementary status I photographed the loch anyway and continued southwestwards, putting off having to scale a deer fence. Eventually I found a suitable place to cross and did so with care.<br />
<br />
The terrain here is fascinating - a line of rocky outcrops runs NE -SW for about two and a half miles, and within these outcrops are concealed (or not so concealed) hut circles, duns and enclosures. The outcrops were easy enough to find [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819641">2819641</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819667">2819667</a>]], but I could not find the hut circles, despite having the GPS. Time was not on my side so I did not spend long looking, making up my mind to return with that aim in view and not being sidetracked by geographing!<br />
<br />
Passing through more boggy grassland [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819685">2819685</a>]] and with a view of a distant waterfall [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819710">2819710</a>]] I eventually came across the Ardilistry River [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2819680">2819680</a>]] - finally a river/burn with a name! I did not follow the river, choosing instead to head for Loch Iarnan from where I knew there was a track back to the car at Ardbeg.<br />
<br />
The walk was about 8 miles in total, although it's difficult to measure when zigzagging such a lot and trudging across such difficult and boggy terrain. The highlights were undoubtedly the picturesque Tighnaspeur and the fascinating dinosaur-like dun-land of this south-eastern corner of Islay.text/html2012-02-22T11:22:33+00:00Becky Williamson55.828580244746 -6.2091800772526Ballimartin to Killinallan - linear, cross-country walk
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/101
This was a much anticipated walk. I'd poured over the map so many times in preparation for the trip that I was beginning to think maybe I didn't need to bring it with us. Oh, such foolish thinking! We'd gone about 10 yards before Linda asked, "Right which way is it now, Becky?" and I had to admit I wasn't sure. It's one thing geographing on your own when, if you get lost/stuck in a bog/want to take a detour/take longer than anticipated etc, you've only yourself to blame, but when you've got company you begin to feel the weight of the responsibility. It's a good thing I've got patient friends!<br />
<br />
The walk would best be started a little further south than our starting point - ie in gridsquare NR3666. This would take in (with brief detours) two chapels and the ruins of Duisker. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813141">2813141</a>]]. We forded the Allt Ruadh [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812930">2812930</a>]] and admired the ancient township of Baile Tharbhach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813198">2813198</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813440">2813440</a>]]. There is evidence here of several houses to comprise the township. Upon our return there was also evidence of the bulls to appropriate the name! They literally blocked the road as if to lay claim to the area.<br />
<br />
The Allt Ruadh (Reddish Burn) is an attractive burn, rather more than a burn at the moment after all our recent rain. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812919">2812919</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812915">2812915</a>]]. One waterfall is marked on the map [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812985">2812985</a>]], from which a view of Dun Chollapus (no translation available) is obtained. This was a feature too tempting to miss [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813482">2813482</a>]] so we climbed to the top and enjoyed the views. This was the best part of the day weatherwise so I'm really glad we took the time to do this. The remains of a wall can be seen in the photo. It has been speculated that the stones used in the wall's construction were taken from the original dun. See <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=37685&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIzNTc0KzY3OTEmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMzU3MDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02Njc5MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT0yNTAmaWRbXT05Mzg%3D" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=37685&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIzNTc0KzY3OTEmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMzU3MDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02Njc5MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT0yNTAmaWRbXT05Mzg%3D">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span> for more information.<br />
<br />
From the top of the dun we looked west towards our destination across Loch Mhic Dhuibhi, Loch Leathan and Beinn Cham (curved hill) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813562">2813562</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813406">2813406</a>]]. North-eastwards the Paps were adorned with a very slight dusting of snow. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813190">2813190</a>]]. Peat cuttings and furrowed fields were evidence of erstwhile human habitation. Now this land is inhabited only by truly wild things and everywhere we went we watched herds of Red Deer, often standing tall on the horizon as if to remind us who was boss.<br />
<br />
From here we headed north, trying to follow a vague path, towards unnamed buildings marked on the map by Abhainn Airigh na t-Sluic (River of the Shieling of the Hollow). [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813500">2813500</a>]]. For more information, see <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=154005&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIzNTU2ODkmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMzU1MDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02Njg5MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT01MDAmaWRbXT05Mzg%3D" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=154005&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIzNTU2ODkmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMzU1MDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02Njg5MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT01MDAmaWRbXT05Mzg%3D">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span>. Strangely there are further piles of stones further north which seemed to serve no obvious purpose. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813551">2813551</a>]]. This brief detour was a solo venture, simply to bag another square! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813547">2813547</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813065">2813065</a>]].<br />
<br />
Now we headed westwards and suddenly the clouds descended and we were in the midst of a blizzard. The others walked on ahead, desperate to get out of the bog. I was desperate to do so too, but didn't want to miss this opportunity to take photos - if only my camera would dry out and start working! It finally did and I caught the end of the blizzard at Loch na Leoig (Loch of the Ditch) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813415">2813415</a>]]. I waited for the blizzard to stop and took more photos [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813543">2813543</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813176">2813176</a>]] and this one of the retreating snow cloud [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813528">2813528</a>]].<br />
<br />
I caught up with the others at Loch a' Chlaidheimh (Loch of the Sword) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813491">2813491</a>]]. I suppose a battle was fought here and would be interested to hear of the history of the name of this loch and nearby hill [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812975">2812975</a>]]. <br />
<br />
The snow had mucked up our plans a little. I'd been keen to visit the Clach an Tiompain, east of Loch an Leinibh, but we were heading westwards and it would have been too much of a detour. Still, we headed north, a little disorientated after the blizzard and glad of the GPS to keep us on track. We headed towards Cnoc a' Chlaidheimh, across boggy ground [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813432">2813432</a>]], [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813395">2813395</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813536">2813536</a>]]. Once at the top of the hill we were relived to see our agreed lunch spot - Loch an Leinibh (Loch of the Infant). By now the sun was out again and we sat basking in its warmth, enjoying views across the still waters of this intriguingly named loch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813481">2813481</a>]].<br />
<br />
Refreshed, we continued to head northwards, although all our internal compasses were suggesting we head west. Naturally, I didn't allow anyone to take any notice of internal compasses until I'd bagged the requisite grid square - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813517">2813517</a>]]. Originally I'd intended climbing Beinn nam Fitheach (Mountain of the Raven), but there wasn't enough time on this visit.<br />
<br />
At last we could head west into some of Islay's less interesting terrain. The best views here are across marshy land to Islay's distant northern hills, like Beinn Bhreac (Speckled Mountain) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813446">2813446</a>]] and Beinn am Fitheach [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812991">2812991</a>]]. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812982">2812982</a>]]. Soon we could see the distinct tower of the now derelict Killinallan farm [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813052">2813052</a>]].<br />
<br />
This is pretty featureless terrain, but a funny little hill caught our attention. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812926">2812926</a>]]. It doesn't seem to be marked on the map, although it is located right beneath the words 'An Rumach' (the marsh) on the Explorer map. One of the few other features in this square is the Burn of the Marsh or Marshland, Allt na Rumaiche [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813495">2813495</a>]].<br />
<br />
Rather unintentionally we headed north here and encountered yet more bog [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813513">2813513</a>]]. Further west several ruins are spread out across three grid squares. For more information, visit <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=154014&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9ZnJlZV90ZXh0X3NlYXJjaCZwX25hbWU9YWxsdCtuYStydW1haWNoZQ%3D%3D" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=154014&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9ZnJlZV90ZXh0X3NlYXJjaCZwX25hbWU9YWxsdCtuYStydW1haWNoZQ%3D%3D">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span>. We visited two of the squares - [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812889">2812889</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2812901">2812901</a>]] and had another brief stop in the latter ruin, wondering when was the last time someone stopped here for a coffee break.<br />
<br />
An unexpected deer fence had to be climbed before we were truly on the home stretch [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813074">2813074</a>]] and the last photo of the day was taken simply because I couldn't remember if I'd already got one for that square or not (suppressed laughter from my co-walkers). [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2813524">2813524</a>]].<br />
<br />
It hadn't been a particularly long walk, but my legs were complaining after such exertion through the boggy terrain. Still, we'd all enjoyed it and were grateful to Sandy for having carried her thermos of hot chocolate all the way in case we needed it - and of course we ended up drinking it within a few feet of her car which then transported us all back to Ballimartin!<br />
<br />
Thanks to all for putting up with another geographing trip!text/html2012-02-14T19:12:02+00:00Becky Williamson55.76699079194 -6.4258903020502Dun Bhar-a-Chlaom, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/99
On a windless day John and I set off on a circular walk from and to Kilchoman via the ancient fort of Dun Bhar-a-Chlaom. As usual my attempts to find a translation of the Gaelic have failed, so any help would be greatly appreciated.<br />
<br />
Our walk started from the car park at Machir Bay, where we headed through the gate southwards across the dunes. A pool of water marked only on my edition of the Explorer map as 'Butts' is symbolised on the latest edition of the map. A family of Whooper Swans fed here, joined by Wigeon and Oystercatcher and surrounded by cattle. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2802972">2802972</a>]].<br />
<br />
Having deviated somewhat from the coast, the path soon runs parallel with this magnificent stretch of coastline and we passed a dun on the coastal side of the path. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2802975">2802975</a>]]. Turning a corner here we caught our first glimpse of the three sister hills situated between Kilchoman and Kilchiaran - Cnoc nam Muc-chlach,(Hill of the Pig Rock), Creag Goirtean na Feannaige (Rock of the arable field of potato ridges?) and Creag Bealach na Caillich (Rock of the pass of the old lady). Two of these are now marred by the construction of phone masts. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2804176">2804176</a>]]<br />
<br />
It is not easy to see why the other two are so named, but the 'Old Lady' is clearly visible in profile on the rock face of the so-named hill - looking out at you as you walk past.[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2802956">2802956</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2802952">2802952</a>]]. She must have watched hundreds of walkers in the past.<br />
<br />
We gave her the time of day and continued along the path which now heads directly east. Just before going through a gate onto a tarmac road, a path leads off eastwards. We took this path, but regretted it; it would have been easier to go through the gate and then head east because we ended up having to scale a wall to get to the footbridge across Abhainn na Braid (River of the mountainous country) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2802984">2802984</a>]]. It is a short walk from the bridge to a ruin [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803005">2803005</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803001">2803001</a>]].<br />
<br />
We followed the Allt Cnoc na Gainimh north-eastwards. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803272">2803272</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803282">2803282</a>]]. I was unable to find a translation for this burn. Although pathless, walking across this terrain was relatively easy - the hard bit was still to come. <br />
<br />
After crossing a barbed wire fence we came upon boggy moorland - named a 'swamp' by archaeologists in 1978! We looked for the 'isolated knoll' mentioned in their report (see <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=37457&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIyMjIxKzYxNDgmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMjIyMDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02NjE1MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT0yNTAmaWRbXT05MzA%3D)," rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=37457&refer=L3NlYXJjaC9pbmRleC5waHA%2FYWN0aW9uPWRvX3NlYXJjaCZwX3R5cGU9Y29vcmRpbmF0ZXMmcF9uYW1lPU5hdGlvbmFsK0dyaWQrbnIyMjIxKzYxNDgmcF9uZ3JfeD0xMjIyMDAmcF9uZ3JfeT02NjE1MDAmcF9leHRlbnR2YWx1ZT0yNTAmaWRbXT05MzA%3D),">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span> but there appeared to be many candidates for this status - none of which looked particularly fort-like in appearance. With GPS firmly in hand and being checked every few metres, we cautiously approached a copse of willow through which there appeared to be no alternative but to wade through. Fortunately, we didn't have to do so for long and then, through the branches I eventually made out the distinct dun shape of Dun Bhar-a-chlaom [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803054">2803054</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2804237">2804237</a>]] - but I would never have done so without the aid of the GPS. We sat atop this dun, looking across vast moorland and musing on the fact that, apart from the phone masts, visible to the west, and a few hundred yards of fencing, there was no sign of human interference in this landscape. The Reed Buntings which sang away below us would have sung long ago when the duns were in use and the Red Deer we scared would have been scared by the presence of our forbearers centuries before us. It was a reassuring thought that whilst so much of our countryside has been invaded by humans, there are still unspoilt pockets such as this one. In fact, I said to John, I doubt anyone has been here since the archaeologists in 1978!<br />
<br />
We decided to take a brief detour into the next gridsquare - simply for the sake of it. This involved negotiating more woodland, spreading Rhododendron bushes and tussocky heather until we rejoined the flooded Allt Cnoc na Gainimh at NR230 615 [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803091">2803091</a>]] and [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803085">2803085</a>]]. We crossed the stream and headed northwest where we came across yet more fencing. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803318">2803318</a>]] Fortunately some of the original fencing was no longer extant so it did not prove a problem. The woodland and Rhododendron here are quite extensive. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803109">2803109</a>]].<br />
<br />
We were relieved to finally reach grassland after hours of traipsing through boggy moorland. It would be nice to return in the summer when the woodland here is verdant. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803574">2803574</a>]]. We were still heading northwest, beneath Turnaichidh and across the Allt Gleann na Ceardaich to Kilchoman House. An old water wheel here attracted our attention [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2803586">2803586</a>]] - something else to ask the experts about! No matter how prepared I go on these geographing trips, I always come back with some questions settled and some more unsettled - and that's why I like it so much!text/html2012-02-08T11:49:59+00:00Becky Williamson55.892935910308 -6.1681412217506Margadale Circular, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/98
The forecast was looking good for Monday 6th February so, with renewed vigour after a lethargic start to 2012, I poured over the Explorer OS map for North Islay and looked for green squares and figured out how to make a circular walk out of them. Delighted at the prospect of a good long walk in the rarely seen sunshine, I drove northwards, basking in the sun's warmth - until I reached Ballygrant, where suddenly the earth was plunged into a cloudy abyss. "Could this possibly be the same island?" I queried as I pulled over and questioned whether I should head south to sunnier climes. There's lots of green squares, I reasoned. But I would have lost time and maybe the sun would burn through the cloud and I'd kind of made a new year's resolution to stick with plan A wherever possible. So I turned off to Bunnahabhain, keeping one eye on the cloud and one eye on the winding single track road.<br />
<br />
I don't like walking in cloudy weather. Optimal weather for me is sunshine with cumulus humilis or cirrus cloud waltzing across an azure sky. With much less gusto than earlier in the morning, I donned my essential wellies (Islay has had more rainfall this winter than any year I can remember) and accessories. I've always admired folk who set off for long walks with nothing other than a tiny platypus pack on their backs. For me going a walk, any walk, means binoculars, camera (at least one), lunch (lots of it), waterfproofs and extra layer in rucksack, map round neck and GPS. Inevitably this leads to feeling quite strangled and, whilst I enjoy the company of others on walks, I often feel I'm holding them up whilst I untwine whichever accoutrement I need next, so in many ways I'm better walking on my own.<br />
<br />
I set off on the very familiar track and headed west towards the conifer plantation. As I did so, the cloud began to lift and before long I was walking in glorious sunshine. My gusto returned and I felt more alive than I've done in months. Just before reaching the plantation, the track forks and it was here that I entered new territory, taking the right-hand fork towards the reservoir. I expected the path to end here, but there are a myriad of quad bike tracks leading off into the hills, as well as plenty of deer tracks. I followed a quad bike track across a small wooden footbridge over the Margadale River [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794246">2794246</a>]]. Looking eastwards I could see the Paps of Jura, lingering under an attractive swirl of cloud. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794260">2794260</a>]] I couldn't find the shielings that were marked on the map, but I took a detour from the track to get closer to the Margadale River. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794263">2794263</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794254">2794254</a>]] I stopped here to take photos, revelling in the beauty of the gushing river.<br />
<br />
Back on the track I continued walking towards the ruin of Margadale across boggy moorland. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794251">2794251</a>]]. Before long I saw the ruin and headed towards it. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795621">2795621</a>]] I stayed here for a long time. Margadale is situated in lush green pasture, surrounded by hills, with an uninterrupted view of the Paps of Jura. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795622">2795622</a>]] It is one of the most tranquil and beautiful spots I have ever visited - of course the windless day contributed to this sense of tranquility. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794240">2794240</a>]]<br />
<br />
My route now took me northwards, following the Margadale River until I strode off up Margadale Hill [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795619">2795619</a>]], passing shake holes on the way. The shapely form of Giur-bheinn soon entered my realm of vision, its northern bulk looking more formidable than its gentle eastern flanks. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795617">2795617</a>]] I was surprised not to see any Golden Eagles today, maybe the lack of wind accounted for that. I did see lots of Red Deer, however. Invariably they stopped in their tracks upon my approach, paused for a couple of seconds eyeing me up and then turned and fled. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795627">2795627</a>]]<br />
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On the 283 m summit of this northern hill, there was not a breath of wind. Apparently today Islay was the warmest place in Europe. While the rest of Britain shivered under layers of clothing, I was on top of a hill with only one layer of clothing on. I was so elated I couldn't stand still. I had forgotten how good it was to be on top of a hill in good weather with a 360 degree panorama of mountain, moorland, Red Deer, lochs, lochans, islands and sea. I wondered why I had this goodie bag all to myself. What splendour and what joy! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795633">2795633</a>]]<br />
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I decided to head down to Loch Mhurchaidh for my lunch, not because, unusually it was too cold on the summit, but because I was just bursting with excitement - like a child with her Christmas presents - tearing the wrappers off each present without pausing inbetween. The ground was boggy and I was glad of my wellies, but I had my stick to test the depth of bog (forgot to mention that in my list of accoutrements!). I found the slippiness of the water-logged ground more of a problem, but managed not to actually fall, despite several near misses!<br />
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Loch Mhurchaidh nestles between Margadale Hill and Sgarbh Breac [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795640">2795640</a>]]. Today it sparkled in the sunshine [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794257">2794257</a>]], unruffled by any breeze. I paused here for lunch and then headed eastwards, following quad bike tracks to Allt Bhachlaig [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794234">2794234</a>]]. This is a beautiful burn, twisting and turning towards the coast, often tumbling downhill in miniature waterfalls [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794243">2794243</a>]]. I was pleasantly surprised to see a berry-bearing Holly bush adorning its banks. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794261">2794261</a>]] Another surprise lay in store for me. I reached the telegraph poles which mark the coastal path to Rubh' a' Mhail and was awestruck by the clarity and majesty of the vista before me. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795657">2795657</a>]] I had not intended going down to the coast, but the sun and sea beckoned me and I decided to bag another square by heading down to the beach at Rubha Bhachlaig where, through my binoculars I could make out an otter scrambling on the rocks - too far away for a photo unfortunately. Grey Heron, Red-throated Diver, Oystercatcher and Grey Seals were also sharing this beautiful bay.<br />
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Getting down to the shore is quite tricky here, but worth it for the surprise in store; for the diminutive Allt Bhachlaig suddenly tumbles over the cliff in a spectacular waterfall. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794253">2794253</a>]] I was happy to snap away here before, clutching my GPS, I strode off to get the next square where Rubha Bhachlaig juts out into the Sound of Islay. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794248">2794248</a>]] Walking back I noticed a natural arch not marked on the map. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2794238">2794238</a>]].<br />
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I made my way back up the cliff and rejoined familiar territory as I walked back to Bunnahabhain. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2795660">2795660</a>]] The day had been full of surprises from the moment I left the car in ominous cloud to the moment I returned to a car which, basking in sunshine all day recorded a temperature of 18 degrees! (It swiftly fell to a still respectable 9 degrees once out of the sun). This was by far my best day out in the hills for a long, long time.text/html2011-05-08T15:14:01+00:00Becky WilliamsonGlenastle to Kintra, Islay
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/53
This is a favourite walk of mine on Islay. I had completed it once before and, when friends agreed to accompany me, meaning we had more than one car available, I readily jumped at the chance of completing the walk again.<br />
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We drove to Kintra and left one car there before driving to the head of Glen Astle and commencing our walk to the accompanying tune of the Grasshopper Warbler. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398756">2398756</a>]] This part of the walk is easy, being along a track which runs to the twin lochs of Glenastle and Lower Glenastle. A ruined building has been semi-converted into what looks like a storage shed, perhaps for fishing equipment as this is a popular fishing location on the island.<br />
[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398917">2398917</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398790">2398790</a>]]<br />
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Next to this semi-converted building are the remains of a substantial farmstead known as Glenastle. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398785">2398785</a>]]<br />
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We sat at An Tairbeart for a coffee break. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398747">2398747</a>]] The Gaelic name indicates a narrow strip of land between two bodies of water, in this case two lochs. In days gone by boat-users of various kinds would carry their boat across 'An Tairbeart' rather than sail round several miles. There are many 'Tarberts' in Scotland, which can be confusing in the 21st century, but generations ago when there was less geographical mobility, people would probably only be familiar with one 'An Tairbeart'.<br />
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We passed an old water mill, further evidence of the life once lived here. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398945">2398945</a>]]<br />
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In the early 1800s, the Oa was home to about 1500 people. I suppose the clearances were one of the reasons for the rapid decline in the population. There are many ruined villages on the Oa, a poignant reminder of our past and of a much simpler, but tougher way of life.<br />
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With the help of a satmap, we were able to locate a hut circle, evidence of a much earlier period. There was little left now and we all commented on how we would have walked right past this archaeological feature without the aid of the satmap.<br />
[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398769">2398769</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398761">2398761</a>]]<br />
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A stone hut circle is a roughly round setting of upright stones, coursed slabs, or stone rubble which represents the foundations, and in some cases the walls, of a building which originally had a wooden and/or turf superstructure and roof. <br />
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From the hut circle we looked back to Lower Glenastle, another ruined village.<br />
[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398773">2398773</a>]]<br />
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It is not far from here to the coast and the recently burnt heather facilitated progress, although we were constantly stopping to check the satmap (which uses A LOT of batteries), or look at a bird or butterfly. The view when you reach the end of the glen is breathtaking.<br />
[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2041921">2041921</a>]]<br />
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Whilst eating lunch a Golden Eagle flew near us, soaring effortlessly over the cave-strewn bay. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2041922">2041922</a>]] We had rarely seen one as close and it soon joined its mate and we watched them both riding the thermals for some time. It was truly magnificent.<br />
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Once again the satmap aided our location of the earthwork marked at NR 286 465. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398800">2398800</a>]]<br />
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'Earthwork' is a general term to describe artificial changes in land level. Earthworks are often known colloquially as 'lumps and bumps'. Earthworks can themselves be archaeological features or they can show features beneath the surface. <br />
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From here we looked north-north-east towards a fantastic natural arch and blowhole, accessible probably only by sea. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398936">2398936</a>]] It is necessary to cross a fence to continue from here and the barbed wire meant we had to cross very near the edge. Afterwards we looked back to see just how close to the edge we'd been! [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398912">2398912</a>]]<br />
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We edged our way just close enough to view the tiny beach a long way down [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398930">2398930</a>]] and then contgented ourselves with taking photographs of the coastline from a safer distance. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398925">2398925</a>]]<br />
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We paused once more for a refreshment break not far from a disused shieling, a small house used by farmers in the summer when their stock was grazing in nearby fields. Then we continued to Soldier's Rock with its fascinating assortment of natural arches, rock formations and caves. Care must be taken here as the coastline is very indented at this point and the cliffs are precipitous. It is a beautiful area, however, and looked beautiful with the Thrift adorning the cliffs and tiny Milkwort like jewels in the moorland. <br />
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[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398778">2398778</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398803">2398803</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2399019">2399019</a>]]<br />
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We turned inland from the Soldier's Rock and past the remains of an old chapel [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1758728">1758728</a>]] on the south side of the Sruthan Poll nan Gamhna. This area is covered in ruined villages and individual houses, such as Grasdale [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398740">2398740</a>]] and Tockmal [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398929">2398929</a>]] and several unnamed ruins, such as this one east of Grasdale [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398781">2398781</a>]].<br />
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The disused lime kiln marks the beginning of the track down to Kintra, although it is very faint until Frachdale is reached. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2398794">2398794</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2390624">2390624</a>]]. From here it is easy going down to Kintra, which is just as well as the rain had started by then. We were glad of our non-walking friends who met us at Kintra with thermos flasks, scones and sausage rolls. Just what we needed after a long, but brilliant day out!text/html2011-04-20T17:04:07+00:00Becky Williamson55.690008221506 -6.0509613777658Kintour to Kynagarry, Islay, April 2011
https://www.geograph.org.uk/blog/46
Islay is heaving around the second week of April every year with enthusiastic walkers who meet for the annual Walk Islay week. Admittedly these are not ardent geographers, but what a great opportunity to grab a few 'green' squares on a walk I would not otherwise be able to do because it requires two cars, one at the start and one at the finish.<br />
<br />
The walk in question started at Kintour on the east coast of Islay (NR 45 51) and finished at Kynagarry (NR 37 58), inland and to the north-west, a total of a measly seven (but gruelling) miles. My first quest was to find a GPS possessor as even a quick glimpse of the map told me there were some pretty featureless gridsquares en route and not everyone (in fact hardly anyone) wants to wait for someone who insists on dragging out the map and analysing it every few paces.<br />
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My poor GPS possessor did not know what she had let herself in for. 'You mean I've got to keep it swtiched on all the time?' she asked. Hmmm, it really is time I got one of these things for myself. But she was willing and very kindly plotted every single photo throughout the walk. (In fact I think she got so much into it that she may well join geograph herself!) This was an invaluable help as not only are the gridsquares pretty featureless, but we were marching on at twice the speed I usually go.<br />
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The Kintour River is very attractive, running through some ancient native woodland.<br />
[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367702">2367702</a>]]<br />
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We headed north, crossing the river at NR 453 521 [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366894">2366894</a>]] by one of Islay's many makeshift bridges - this time a door!<br />
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It's a bit of a climb to Cnoc Dhota where some ruins are suggestive of erstwhile shielings and we looked across to Beinn Bheigier. We left the woodland behind here and headed out to vast, featurelss moorland. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366899">2366899</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366896">2366896</a>]]<br />
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The next square was a challenge, with very little to photograph, so I chose the Drovers' path which we followed most of the way, although it all but disappears in places. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366906">2366906</a>]]<br />
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A dent in the moorland provided slight interest, enough for a photograph in NR 43 53 [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2366912">2366912</a>]] and some tiny pools featured in grid square NR 42 53, looking south to the interesting terrain of hut circles, dùns and cnocs (ripe for another geographing adventure).[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367074">2367074</a>]]<br />
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We were gradually ascending all the time now from the south-east, but it did not feel too bad and actually reached a height of around 400 metres (remember this is Islay, so that's pretty high!) The unnamed hill sloped steeply away from us to the east and we could see the glorious vista of Beinn Bheigier and Gleann Leòra with the Claggain River running through the valley. A waterfall featured in the next grid square, although it was a bit pathetic today due to the dry weather we've been enjoying recently. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367243">2367243</a>]]<br />
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After lunch we continued to ascend a few more contours and passed a few wee pools in NR 41 54 before happening upon a little lochan bang in the middle of NR 41 55. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367268">2367268</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367274">2367274</a>]].<br />
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Anxious to see Loch nam Breac (Loch of the Trout or Salmon) in NR 40 55 I made a quick detour to the west and photographed the loch from the adjacent square, leaving its full geograph status for another visit (or someone else). [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367285">2367285</a>]] This loch can be viewed from Beinn Bhàn and, like all moorland lochans, possesses a character and beauty of its own. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367738">2367738</a>]].<br />
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I had to speed up a bit to catch up with Bronwen who was patiently waiting to inform me that we were in the next grid square. However, I waited for the lochan which covers two squares before taking a photo and again wished I'd got time to nip over to photograph its eastern half. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367294">2367294</a>]]<br />
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There was now only one new square for me to photograph and I saved it for the wonderful wooded valley of Allt Coir' a' Chinn-Chlach (which translated means something like Burn of the Corrie or Glen of the Head-stone - according to local legend, a battle was fought here in the 16th century, although there is no sign of any headstone!) [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367319">2367319</a>]] [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2367314">2367314</a>]] It was beautiful, however, and I could hear Willow Warblers singing from the stunted trees there and longed to explore more.<br />
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Now it was down to the footbridge across the Kilennan River and familiar territory for me. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2288023">2288023</a>]]. We stopped at the attractive Sruthan Allallaidh (can't find what this name means except Sruathan is streamlet) for folk to bathe their feet, it being so hot.[[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2288081">2288081</a>]]<br />
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It's about two miles from here to Kynagarry past more ruins [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2288012">2288012</a>]] and conifer plantations [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2287959">2287959</a>]]. The track is very good and we heard Cuckoo and saw the diminutive and delicate Green Hairstreak Butterfly on these last two miles.<br />
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We made it back to Kynagarry five hours after we started. [[<a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2287940">2287940</a>]] We had been granted special permission to park at the house. Usually I park at the end of the track. We walked south-east to north-west. Although the walk could be done in reverse, it potentially mean having the sun in your eyes all the time, which is a consideration.<br />
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It had been a wonderful walk. Next time I go, I'll be armed with my very own GPS - or more long-suffering friends!<br />
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This trip is also available on Geo-Trip page <span class="nowrap"><a title="http://users.aber.ac.uk/ruw/misc/geotrip_show.php?osos&trip=277" rel="nofollow ugc noopener" href="http://users.aber.ac.uk/ruw/misc/geotrip_show.php?osos&trip=277">Link</a><img style="margin-left:2px;" alt="External link" title="External link - shift click to open in new window" src="http://s1.geograph.org.uk/img/external.png" width="10" height="10"/></span>