Colonsay and Oronsay in the Firth of Lorne

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Creative Commons Licence [Some Rights Reserved]   Text © Copyright August 2017, Julian Paren; licensed for re-use under a Creative Commons Licence.
Images also under a similar Creative Commons Licence.


The most revisited islands in Scotland

I am not alone in making repeated visits to Colonsay. John Humphries, the previous editor of Scottish Islands Explorer, told me that Colonsay has the highest number of return visitors for any Scottish island. You may feel you can see all that Skye offers in one trip, but Colonsay, promoted as the Jewel of the Hebrides, draws you back time and time again. My first family visit to Colonsay was in 1992 and my most recent, the ninth, was in 2024.
NR3997 : Colonsay's greatest asset,  Kiloran Bay - Tràigh Bàn by Julian Paren
A wonderful place to admire nature's handiwork. Usually very quiet, yet this is the reason why many come to Colonsay.
by Julian Paren


The size of the place

Colonsay and Oronsay are part of the Inner Hebrides off the West Coast of Scotland. The islands lie south of Mull, west of Jura and north of Islay. Colonsay is 10 miles long and 2 miles wide, and is separated from the smaller Isle of Oronsay by the mile-wide Strand, which may be crossed at low water. Together, Colonsay and Oronsay have a population of 124 and eight miles of road.

Visitors will find a car useful, but Colonsay is perfect for family cycling; peaceful, safe and fairly flat. Cars are not allowed to cross The Strand to Oronsay.
NR3994 : Cars in the queue for the ferry to Oban by Julian Paren
The ferry approaches in the evening sunshine and cars and their passengers and bicycles will arrive at 11 pm in Oban.
by Julian Paren


NR3997 : Bicycles parked at Kiloran Bay by Julian Paren
Bicycles are a very popular way of exploring Colonsay.
by Julian Paren


Colonsay’s highest hill, Carnan Eoin, is just 469 ft (143 m high), but provides a mountain experience.
NR4098 : Summit of Carnan Eoin by Julian Paren
A striated rock ridge backed by a fine cairn with two children on the summit.
by Julian Paren


NR4098 : Carnan Eoin across the sand of Kiloran Bay by Julian Paren
The final route to the top of Carnan Eoin lies around the left hand skyline. This is the highest point of Colonsay. My family has the beach to itself.
by Julian Paren


The whole island provides rugged and attractive scenery on a small scale.
NR3797 : Port Ban by Julian Paren
Port Ban from the cliffs of Beinn Bhreac. The lower ground at the seashore beneath the cliffs is called Aoneadh nan Muc, or Pigs Paradise in English.
by Julian Paren


The island has good agricultural land and the island is run as two farms - Balnahard and Machrins.
NR4199 : Fields and farm of Balnahard by Julian Paren
Seen from the rougher ground beyond the enclosure of fields.
by Julian Paren



There is a grocery shop and post office, a church and a primary school.
NR3894 : Church at Scalasaig by M J Richardson
The main church on Colonsay.
by M J Richardson


NR3795 : Kilchattan Primary School by Julian Paren
A small school which welcomed visitors to an Open Day.
by Julian Paren



The island has been owned by Lord Strathcona and Mount Royal for over 100 years and the family live in style at Colonsay House.
NR3996 : Colonsay House by Julian Paren
The central part of the house was first built by the McNeill family in 1722. It is a medium-sized Georgian country house. Assumed to have been built on the site of an earlier Abbey, it is the earliest Classical House in Argyll. It has been extended twice in between 1722 and the early 20th century. Since 1904 the house has been the property of the island's owners.
by Julian Paren


Travel to Colonsay by Ferry or Plane

Most people approach Colonsay by sea on a CalMac Ferry. A ferry journey of two to two and a half hours from Oban covers the 36 miles in usually quiet water. The ferry transits the Sound of Kerrera or passes Kerrera on the seaward side and is then sheltered by Mull. In the summer you can make a longer journey from Kennacraig on the Mull of Kintyre or join a ferry in Islay.
NM8329 : The side of Ellery Hill, Kerrera by Julian Paren
Hutcheson's Memorial is visible beyond the hill. The picture was taken on an afternoon sailing to Colonsay from Oban.
by Julian Paren


NM8025 : Rubha Seanach - the SW tip of Kerrera by Julian Paren
On an afternoon sail by CalMac ferry to Colonsay. The bulk of Colonsay can be seen on the horizon.
by Julian Paren


An hour after leaving Oban, the ferry enters a stretch of water open to the west, before reaching the shelter of Colonsay and landfall at Scalasaig.
NR3994 : MV Isle of Mull approaching Colonsay by Julian Paren
A beautiful evening to sail to Oban.
by Julian Paren


On Wednesdays you can arrive at Colonsay by a smaller ferry, MV Hebridean Isles. If you board at Islay or Kennacraig you can have a day trip of eleven hours, with six hours ashore on Colonsay.
NR3994 : The CalMac ferry MV Hebridean Isles leaving Scalasaig by Julian Paren
MV Hebridean Isles was the smaller of the two ferries that serviced the Isle of Colonsay in 2008.

MV Hebridean Isles, Eileanan Innse Gall, is a ferry of firsts. Not only was she the first of the fleet to be launched side first, she was also the first to be named by royalty when HRH the Duchess of Kent launched her in 1986.
by Julian Paren


For an adventurous day out on Tuesdays and Saturdays in summer, Hebridean Air Services can fly you to Colonsay from Oban airport in a small nine-seater Britten-Norman Islander aircraft. Not as adventurous as it was before 2010, now that you land on a tarmac runway instead of in a grass field with sheep.

Except for these special day-trips, visiting Colonsay requires overnight accommodation on the island.
NR3593 : Isle of Colonsay: the Oban plane arrives by Chris Downer
The flight schedule is Oban-Colonsay-Islay and back, twice on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and once on Saturdays and Sundays. Here, a Thursday afternoon service is seen arriving at NR3593 : Isle of Colonsay: the airfield from Islay bound for Oban.
by Chris Downer


Where to stay

There are a number of properties available for holiday lets. The Colonsay Estate (trading as cottages@colonsayholidays.co.uk) has apartments in Colonsay House, some large farmhouses and smaller cottages to rent.
NR3891 : Balerominmhor House by Julian Paren
A property of the Colonsay Estate that can sleep up to 12. LinkExternal link. The building was upgraded in 2017. NR3891 : Balerominmore Farm. A comparable picture to this 2024 image was taken in 1997. NR3891 : Balerominmhor Farmhouse.
by Julian Paren


NR3892 : Baleromindubh Farm and Baleromindubh Cottage by Julian Paren
Both Baleromindubh Farm and Baleromindubh Cottage may be rented for holiday lets from the Colonsay Estate. The cottage is the nearer building. Both properties provide good views over the sea to Jura.
by Julian Paren


The estate has provided a Backpackers Lodge with WiFi. The Lodge consists of a Victorian former gamekeeper's house and two traditional stone bothies adjacent to the house.
NR3996 : Keepers Backpacker Lodge by M J Richardson
A private hostel run by Colonsay Estates.
by M J Richardson


There is a fine hotel, The Colonsay which is independently owned,
NR3894 : The Colonsay by Julian Paren
The Colonsay Hotel was built in 1750 as an inn for the local population and the rare visitor, and the exterior has remained largely unchanged. It has an enviable reputation. See LinkExternal link
by Julian Paren


There are a few B&Bs, and a growing number of privately owned houses and cottages that are available to rent.
NR3694 : Holiday cottage at Lower Kilchattan by Russel Wills
With a raised beach between it and its neighbour.
by Russel Wills


Motor homes and caravans are not allowed entry to the island. I have always been amazed that the cars that arrive by ferry in Scalasaig just seem to vanish, because the natural places to park a car when exploring the island are seldom busy.

KML

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