Nonconformist Chapels in Wales

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Creative Commons License Text by Robin Drayton, July 2020 ; This work is dedicated to the Public Domain.
Images are under a separate Creative Commons Licence.



Pot Pourri


Using the definition of pot pourri as ‘a mixture or medley of things’, here is a selection of miscellaneous items that do not easily fit under the previous headings.

Hymns and composers

A news service in Wales has recently (July 2021) reported that the new Cardiff Arena is to recognise Wales as the Land of Song.
Welsh nonconformity is notable for the number of hymns that originated within it.
Contributors to Geograph have submitted the following photographs that relate to Welsh hymn writers and composers. Selecting the individual pictures will give more information.

John & Morgan Dafydd (c1741), hymn writers
For their entry in The Dictionary of Welsh Biography see LinkExternal link
SN6938 : Ffarm Bedw Gleision  / Bedw Gleision Farm by Alan Richards

John Francis (1789-1843), miller and musician
For his biography see LinkExternal link
SH3435 : Ty Melin Rhyd-hir - the old mill house by Eric Jones

Ann Griffiths (1776-1805), hymn-writer
Information on her life and writings can be found here LinkExternal link
SJ1419 : Pen Dref Welsh Independent Chapel, Llanfyllin by Jeremy Bolwell SJ0816 : Llanfihangel-yng-Ngwynfa by RHYS  WILLIAMS SJ0612 : Ann Griffiths Memorial Chapel, Dolanog by Roy Haworth SJ0612 : Ann Griffiths Memorial Chapel, Dolanog by Roy Haworth
There is a long distance walk that connects areas associated with her life.
SJ0315 : Pont Llogel, Ann Griffiths Walk by Penny Mayes SJ0315 : Waymarker, Ann Griffiths Walk, Pont Llogel by Penny Mayes SJ0614 : Ann Griffiths walk opposite Dolwar Fach entrance by John Firth SJ0614 : Ann Griffiths walk signs by John Firth SJ0614 : Ann Griffiths Walk near Dolanog by Oliver Dixon

John Hughes (Pontrobert) (1775-1854) Preacher, author and hymn writer
Many of his hymns, in Welsh, were published in his lifetime and one was popular during the Welsh revival of 1904-5. His main contribution to the history of hymns was that he collected and published the hymns of Ann Griffiths, also writing a memoir of her. His connection with Ann was through his wife Ruth who had worked as her maid.
There is a memorial to him, his wife and Ann Griffiths in the graveyard opposite to the old chapel near Pontrobert.
SJ1012 : Graveyard memorial to John Hughes, Ruth Hughes and Ann Griffiths by Jeremy Bolwell
For more on his life see LinkExternal link

John Hughes (1872–1914), composer
A composer of many hymn tunes and anthems. Mostly remembered for the music that he composed for the poem ‘Calon Lan’ which was written by Daniel James (see below).
The music is also used to accompany hymns ‘Call Jehovah your salvation’ and ‘What a friend we have in Jesus’.
For details of his life see LinkExternal link .
SN1742 : Cottage with a plaque in Penybryn, Cilgerran by Jeremy Bolwell SS6597 : Capel Caersalem Newydd Chapel by Alan Richards

John Hughes (1873–1932), composer
Composer of the hymn tune ‘ Cwm Rhondda’ used with hymn ‘Guide me, O Thou great Jehovah’ that has the refrain ‘Bread of heaven’.
For his biography see LinkExternal link .
ST0391 : Y-shaped sculpture, Porth by Jaggery ST0590 : Capel Rhondda, Hopkinstown by John Lord

Daniel James (1847-1920), poet
He wrote the words of ‘Calon Lan’.
His biography can be seen at LinkExternal link
SS8993 : Parc Calon Lân sculpture in Blaengarw by Jaggery

William Owen (1813-93) composer
It is the hymn-tune ' Bryn Calfaria ' that is the most well known of his compositions and used for several hymns including ‘Lord, Enthroned in Heavenly Splendour’ and ‘Hark! The voice of love and mercy’.
For his biography see LinkExternal link .
SH5161 : Ffermdy Prysgol, Caeathro by Eric Jones SH5061 : Capel Caeathro by Eric Jones

Morgan Rhys (1716-79), hymn writer
For his biography see LinkExternal link .
SN7439 : Efail Fach by Alan Richards He was buried in Llanfynydd churchyard SN5527 : Church by Dara Jasumani

William Penfro Rowlands (1860-1937), composer
Composer of the tune Blaenwern which is used for Charles Wesley’s hymn ‘Love Divine All Love's Excelling’.
Information on the composer can be found here
LinkExternal link .
SN0424 : Capel Gwastad Chapel by Natasha Ceridwen de Chroustchoff SN0324 : Memorial to William Penfro Rowlands by Natasha Ceridwen de Chroustchoff

Thomas William (1761-1844), hymn writer
For his biography see LinkExternal link
SS9969 : Bethesda'r Fro Chapel by Alan Hughes SS9969 : Bethesda'r Fro Chapel Information Plaque by Mick Lobb

William Williams (Pantycelyn) (1717-91), hymn writer
He wrote one of the best-known hymns in the English language, ‘Guide me, O! Thou great Jehovah’. This hymn, with the well known refrain ‘Bread of heaven’ was originally written in Welsh.
For his entry in The Dictionary of Welsh Biography see LinkExternal link .
A detailed article on his life can be found here LinkExternal link .
SN8235 : Pantycelyn Farm by John Lord SN8135 : Explanatory sign at Pantycelyn Farm by John Lord SN8647 : St. David's Old Parish Church at Llanwrtyd Without by Jeremy Bolwell SN7634 : Williams Pantycelyn Memorial Church, Llandovery by Jaggery
He was buried in the churchyard of the parish church at Llanfair-ar-y-Bryn. SN7735 : Parish church, Llanfair-ar-y-Bryn by John Lord

Miscellaneous Items

Items in this section
Photographs of Welsh Chapels in the Tate Gallery archives.
A chapel hall used as a defence operations control room in World War II.
Dissenters.
A Chapel demolished by a rock.
Looks like a chapel, but is it?
The minister who became a journalist. Commemorated in a heritage trail.
A railway station named after a chapel.
Probably the most remote chapel in Wales.
Chapel moved to make way for the M4 Motorway.
Octagonal Chapels.
The chapel in a department store.
Opposition to a new chapel.
An ‘anonymous’ chapel.
Chapel designed by the creator of Portmeirion.


Photographs of Welsh Chapels in the Tate Gallery archives.
Photographs by the artist John Piper (1903-1992) have been deposited in the
Tate Gallery archives. Here are two of Welsh chapels.
Llangloffan Baptist Chapel, Pembrokeshire
SM9032 : Llangloffan Baptist chapel by Natasha Ceridwen de Chroustchoff
The chapel, a striking presence in this tiny hamlet, dates from 1706 in its earliest guise, with later additions and improvement as dated - even the wrought iron gate is marked 1930. There is no burials here however.
The building caught the attention of the artist John Piper whose original print is in the Tate see LinkExternal link
There is also a hymn melody named Llangloffan - a version of a traditional Welsh song tune.
by Natasha Ceridwen de Chroustchoff


Bethany Baptist Chapel, Llanstephan, Carmarthenshire
SN3511 : Bethany Baptist Chapel, Llanstephan by Alan Hughes

The photo in the Tate Gallery archives can be seen here LinkExternal link .




A chapel hall used as a defence operations control room in World War II.
Caergeiliog Chapel Hall, Valley, Anglesey
SH3178 : WWII Defences of North Wales: RAF Valley - Operations Block  (1) by Mike Searle
-
Caergeiliog Chapel Hall: temporary wartime Operations Room

During the Second World War RAF Valley operated as a fighter station for No. 9 Group defending England's industrial north-west and shipping in the Irish Sea. Operations against the enemy were planned and directed initially from this temporary Operations Room at the nearby village of Caergeiliog's chapel hall. A purpose-built Operations Block would be built later, the chapel hall having to suffice until such time as it became operational.

SH3277 : WWII Defences of North Wales: RAF Valley - Operations Block (2)
by Mike Searle


SH3178 : Capel Caergeiliog and Chapel House by Eric Jones
Capel Caergeiliog is a Calvinistic Methodist chapel.
The chapel was first built in 1786 and then rebuilt almost a century later, in 1872 preserving the old Georgian facade.
The house adjoining the chapel is Ty Capel - the chapel house.



Dissenters
Btitannica online states ‘Nonconformists are also called Dissenters (a word first used of the five Dissenting Brethren at the Westminster Assembly of Divines in 1643–47)’.
Dissenters' Burial Ground, Wrexham
SJ3350 : Dissenters' Burial Ground, Rhosddu Road, Wrexham by A Jones
From a plaque: "Parc Goffa Morgan Llwyd/Morgan Llwyd Memorial Park.
"This ground, originally part of the common fields of Wrexham Regis, was for over two centuries used as a burial ground by Wrexham Dissenters. It was acquired about 1655 by the congregation gathered and ministered to by Morgan Llwyd o Wynedd (1619-59), author of 'Llyfr y Tri Aderyn' and other Welsh classics, who himself lies buried here. After his death the ground was maintained by The Old Meeting (now Chester Street Baptist Church), successors to Morgan Llwyd's congregation, by whose consent members of other dissenting bodies also used it for burial. It was officially closed in 1888, but a few later burials were permitted, the last being in 1901. In 1960 the ground was acquired by the Corporation and laid out as a park for the use of the borough and in commemoration of one of its distinguished sons.
"Opened 1st May 1963."
The monument to Morgan Llwyd was unveiled in 1912 by Mrs David Lloyd George.
by A Jones


Another view of the burial groundSJ3350 : Dissenters' Burial Ground, Rhosddu Road, Wrexham by A Jones

A notorious Anglesey Dissenter - William Prichard (1702-1773)
SH4869 : Bodlew Farmhouse by Eric Jones
The much persecuted 18thC Nonconformist firebrand William Prichard (1702-1773) was tenant here until he was forced out by his neighbours. Born at Llanarmon in Caernarvonshire SH4239 Prichard received a good education and became the tenant farmer of the large Glasfryn Fawr Farm near Pencaenewydd SH3941. One Sunday, after church, as was his wont, Prichard got himself plastered at Ty'n Llan (the ale house within the church enclosure, the profits of which went to the rector), but instead of going straight home he staggered around the village of Llangybi SH4241. Passing Caertyddyn cottage he heard the Dissenter Francis Evans praying aloud for the village drunks. This led to Prichard's conversion and he joined the Pwllheli Dissenting Congregation. He then started a school for the village children at Glasfryn Fawr Farm. Soon, malicious tales about Prichard emanating from the pulpit of Llangybi church forced the family to flee to Anglesey. There Prichard obtained the tenancy of Plas Penmynydd (the birthplace of the Tudor Dynasty), SH4975, but before long the vicar of Llanffinan was urging local ruffians to harras the family and the landlord was persuaded to evict them. They then moved to Bodlew, Llanddaniel where again they suffered persecution and eviction. Hearing of the plight of Prichard and his family, William Bulkeley the squire-diarist of Brynddu, Llanfechell,SH3791, offered him the tenancy of Clwchdernog. Although, a loyal Anglican, Bulkeley was a man who cherished fair play and hated sectarian bullying and intimidation. Prichard lived there unmolested from 1749 until his death in 1773, a period in which in which he was the moving force behind the establishment of dissenting congregations in N.W. Anglesey

LinkExternal link
by Eric Jones




A Chapel demolished by a rock.
Drws- y-Coed Welsh Independent Chapel, Gwynedd
SH5453 : The chapel that was demolished by a falling rock by Eric Jones
The tablet reads:
'This is the site of the old Drws-y-Coed Independent Chapel that was demolished by this stone on February 17 1892'.
The event happened on a Sunday evening just after the congregation had left. A new chapel was later built across the road.
by Eric Jones


SH5453 : Chapel at Drws Y Coed by Trevor Littlewood
This is the replacement chapel.

A typical Welsh Chapel lying in the Nantlle Valley. The inscription above the central window reads 'Adeiladwyd 1836 Ail Adeiladwyd 1892', meaning Built 1836, Rebuilt 1892.
By Trevor Littlewood




Looks like a chapel, but is it?
Chapel-like house at the crossroads in Llanddaniel-Fab, Anglesey
SH4970 : Chapel-like house at the crossroads in Llanddaniel-Fab by Eric Jones
This house has all the appearance of a chapel conversion. Yet, no 19th or 20th century map shows a chapel, or for that matter, a school at this location. The builder must have used the plans intended for the construction of a chapel.
A correspondent, Mr C. Morris, informs me that in his boyhood days this building was a tailor's shop, known as the Cloth Hall. It was probably built between 1861-1871, as the name first appears in the 1871 Census.
by Eric Jones




The minister who became a journalist. Commemorated in a heritage trail.
Saron Independent Chapel, Tredegar, Blaenau Gwent
SO1408 : The Independent Minister and Journalist by Robin Drayton
Evan Jones, 'Ieuan Gwynedd' (1820-1852).

The inscription reads:
Born Near Dolgellau, Evan Jones, 'Ieuan Gwynedd' was an Independent minister and journalist. He became minister at Saron Chapel in Tredegar in 1845 but left after 2½ years to pursue a career in journalism. During his short stay at Tredegar he developed Sunday school classes and took a keen interest in education. Often this was the only education children working in the mines and ironworks received. Evan was a prominent critic of the Report of Commission of Enquiry into the state of Education in Wales published in 1847. The report was produced in blue books and later referred to by it many critics as 'The Treachery of the Blue Books'. It exaggerated and blamed the poor state of education and schools in Wales upon the Welsh language, the influence of non-conformist chapels, and the alleged, low morals and coarse habits of the Welsh people. Evan wrote and published many letters and pamphlets attacking the report and its conclusions. His arguments, always strongly presented, were based on careful study of the facts. Evan suffered from ill-health throughout his life and died in 1852, aged only 31.

O.M. Edwards, the Welsh Historian, Educationalist and Writer paid tribute saying, 'He struck a note that will never be forgotten in Wales. His voice was like the blast of a trumpet, it made every Welshman realise that he was either a coward or a man determined to resent the silent belief that Welshmen were racially inferior to their neighbours.'
by Robin Drayton
Shared Description




A railway station named after a chapel
Hebron Calvinist Methodist Chapel, Gwaen Cwm Brwynog, Gwynedd
SH5858 : Capel Hebron, Gwauncwmbrwynog by Eric Jones
Established in 1835 (a full sixty years before the neighbouring station that bears its name) as a branch of Capel Coch Calvinistic Methodist Chapel in Llanberis. It separated from the mother-chapel following the religious revival of 1859. Depopulation led to its inevitable closure in 1958.
by Eric Jones


SH5858 : Hebron Station and abandoned chapel by John Lucas
Viewed from the Llanberis path to Snowdon. The chapel has obviously been long abandoned but is marked with a cross on the 1953 1:25000 map so was active until about then (OS revision policies excepted!).
by John Lucas




Probably the most remote chapel in Wales
Soar-y-Mynydd Welsh Calvinistic Methodist Chapel, Ceredigion
SN7853 : Capel Soar-y-Mynydd, Ceredigion by Roger  D Kidd
At Soar-y-Mynydd in Cwm Camddwr is a Calvinist Methodist chapel, very remotely situated. The two-storey chapel is built to a traditional design with a long side-wall. The pulpit is located between the two doorways. The far end was accommodation.
SN7853 : Soar-y-Mynydd Chapel interior, Ceredigion

The forestry road off to the left behind the chapel goes to Nat-llwyd farm and the Dalarwen Plantation. Off to the right is the former drovers road to Llanddewi Brefi, still unsurfaced (long may it remain so!) via Cwm Doethie Fawr.

Just in case the link disappears in years to come, I feel that it will be useful to reproduce the following text, perfect in its conciseness while full of poignant information, from the Welsh Countryside Magazine website.
"Capel Soar y Mynydd, a Welsh Calvinist Methodist chapel, was built by the River Camddwr in 1822 by Rev Ebenezer Richards of Tregaron and his trustees to serve the hill farmers of the remote upper valleys. It was also used as a school until the 1940s but the great and tragic snow storm of 1947 when the Tywi valley was cut off for three months and the sheep froze to death was the final blow to the last seven families of sheep farmers in the valley who sold out in the end to the Forestry Commission*. It is difficult for today's visitor to realise what a thriving community lived in these parts, for example,
Dolgoch ( Link ) in 1944 was the largest farm boasting 2,500 acres, and could record in that year that over a hundred people attended its shearing day when 85 shearers dispatched 2,000 sheep and over 700 lambs." LinkExternal link

* If you read Welsh, Huw Jones's book Bugail Olaf Y Cwm published by Gwasg Garreg Gwalch reveals a lot about this.
by Roger D Kidd


SN7853 : Soar-y-Mynydd Chapel interior, Ceredigion by Roger  D Kidd
This is said to be the most remote chapel in the whole of Wales. Think of its position before the building of roads connected with Llyn Brianne or the Tywi forest of the 1960s. Take a look at the 1930s Ordnance Survey 1:63360 map, available on wheresthepath.htm here LinkExternal link .

The Soar-y-Mynydd Welsh Calvinistic Methodist Chapel was built in the 1820s by Ebenezer Richards and his trustees. He was the minister at Tregaron and father of Henry Richard (1812-88) Link. The two-storey chapel is built to a traditional design with a long side-wall; the pulpit is located between the two doorways. The building was used as the local school until the 1940s.
by Roger D Kidd


Chapel moved to make way for the M4 Motorway
Beulah Calvinistic Chapel, Groes, Neath Port Talbot
SS7887 : Beulah chapel, Margam, Port Talbot by Jaggery
Located in the northern corner of Tollgate Park. A small oval plaque on the wall records that Beulah Calvinistic Methodist Chapel, built at Groes in 1838, was dismantled and rebuilt here in 1976.
The name board shows EGLWYS BRESBYTERIADD CYMRU (Presbyterian Church of Wales) BEULAH.
by Jaggery


This chapel was unique in being the only octagonal chapel in Wales (see the following entry for more details).

Octagonal Chapels
The chapel pictured in the previous entry was Grade ll* Listed in 1976 as the only surviving octagonal chapel in Wales.
However, another octagonal chapel has been erected since then.
ST2688 : Bethesda Baptist Chapel, Rogerstone by Robin Drayton
The original building on this site was erected in 1742, rebuilt in 1843 and again in 1900.
This building dates from the 1990s.
by Robin Drayton




The Chapel in a department store
Bethany Baptist Chapel, Cardiff
ST1876 : The former entrance to Bethany Baptist Church, Cardiff by John Lord
The whole church is now completely within a department store, forming part of it.
by John Lord



The chapel was first built in 1807, rebuilt in 1821-27 and enlarged in 1840. It was rebuilt again in 1865 and remained in use until the 1960s when the congregation moved out of the city centre to a new building. The chapel building was swallowed up by the expansion of Howells department store which then became House of Fraser.
ST1876 : House of Fraser, Cardiff by Jaggery


The store closed in March 2023 and redevelopment of the site commenced. It is proposed that the chapel building is retained to become part of the redeveloped site. In July 2023 demolition revealed the façade of the chapel to the open air.



ST1876 : The former Bethany Baptist Chapel, Cardiff by Robin Drayton


This is the view of the chapel in June 2024. The site is under redevelopment and this picture was taken through a peephole in the surrounding hoarding.



Opposition to a new chapel.
Graig Chapel, Lechryd, Rhymney
SO1009 : Ruins of Graig Chapel, Llechryd, Rhymney by Robin Drayton
This Welsh Independent (Congregational) chapel was originally called Zoar but has generally been referred to as Graig Chapel.
The land for the chapel was obtained from the Duke of Beaufort in 1827 and subsequently building commenced. However, in order to access the site it was necessary to traverse land belonging to the Union Ironworks. This access was forbidden by the works manager, who was no friend of the Nonconformists and it was not until after he left the Company some twelve years later that building work could continue.
Although in an isolated location, the chapel attracted a congregation from a wide area.
A large burial ground containing over 1,400 graves is attached to the chapel. In the 20th century this was often the burial place of choice as it was cheaper than the municipal cemetery. The coffins were carried for some distance from the main road to the cemetery.
by Robin Drayton




An ‘anonymous’ chapel.
Although this chapel appears more than once on Geograph, it is not identified. It is the outstanding railway viaduct that is the subject of the pictures.
SN8041 : Cynghordy viaduct by Graham Horn
I know this viaduct has been photographed to death, but it is spectacular as it bursts upon the scene and is quite unexpected. It crosses the Afon Brân and carries the Mid Wales line from Llanelli to Shrewsbury.
by Graham Horn


Gosen Chapel, Calvinistic Methodist, Cynghordy, Carmarthenshire
The chapel, built in 1844, predates the viaduct, with the chapel house and vestry added in 1922. The building closed as a working chapel in the early 21st century and has undergone some restoration.
The viaduct was constructed in 1867.


Chapel designed by the creator of Portmeirion
Moreia Methodist Chapel, Llanystumdwy, Gwynedd
SH4738 : Moreia Methodist Chapel, Llanystumdwy by Robin Drayton
The original chapel was built in 1866.
After a fire in 1936 it was rebuilt to a design by Welsh architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis who was the creator of Portmeirion. Link .
The architectural style is described as a mix of Later Vernacular Simple Round-Headed and Arts and Craft styles with a long-wall entry plan.
It is Grade 2 listed as an important example of this notable architect’s work.
This picture was taken in 2014; it is now a private residence.
by Robin Drayton


KML

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