Geo-Trips :: The South West Coast Path Day 33 – Polperro to Portwrinkle
Polperro
A walk from Polperro, Sat, 16 Apr 2011 by Philip Halling
preceding leg | This trip is part of a series. | next leg |
Polperro to Portwrinkle
Saturday 16 April 2011
Distance 12.6 miles, Ascent 2,739ft
I walked back down to the picturesque harbour of Polperro, Returning to the coast path involved a minor diversion, I walked up a steep narrow road to Brent and then turning right I followed a road past Polperro’s primary school. A footpath following a track beside a hedge along a field headland returned me to the coast path. Writing this five years later I can only assume the official route which leaves Polperro by via the north side of the harbour was temporarily closed.
The guide book described today’s walk as 'moderate' as far as Looe and then from there on, 'strenuous, moderate in places'. Once back on the coast path almost immediately I reached a war memorial above Downend Point, it is shared by Polperro and Talland. Passing Downend Point I was now walking above Talland Bay. The tide was out, exposing a rocky shore along with some sandy beaches. I passed the Smugglers Rest, above this, up a steep lane, there is a church, but perhaps more noticeable were a pair of Landmarks or daymarkers. Rounding a headland which is unnamed on the Ordnance Survey map, the National Trust sign named this part of the coast, Hendersick, presumably after a nearby farm. After the headland I walked around Portnadler Bay. St George’s or Looe Island caught the eye now as I followed the path around the bay. Marine Drive at Hannafore brought me to the Looe, entering the harbour I passed the sculpture of a seal, based a creature which was a regular visitor to Looe. The tide was out, with many of the boats grounded in the harbour. I crossed the bridge to East Looe and found a shop where I purchased a pasty for lunch. Walking up Castle Street I was soon back out on the coast path which after about a mile brought me to Millendreath with its small sandy beach, however, all was not what it seemed here. A large beachfront building was closed and boarded up, nearby another building which I believed used to be a clubhouse was also closed and fenced off. Further up the valley I could see caravans, though with the seafront buildings moribund, I’m not sure if these were in use. Five years later when writing this narrative a quick look on Google Maps show the site has been completely redeveloped and is almost unrecognisable. Leaving Millendreath I ascended a narrow country road which once more took me back up to the cliffs where the path contoured high above the coast. I passed an unusual sight, that of a labyrinth, reminiscent of some ancient chalk hillside figure. It has no antiquity at all, it was created the previous year in 2010. Half a mile or so further on I came to country road which descended steeply to Seaton, a peaceful seafront resort. The coast path followed the road to Downderry. Leaving Downderry the path climbed sharply to Battern Cliff which provided fine views of the coast, from where just over another mile of undulating walking brought me to tonight’s destination, Portwrinkle, where I was staying tonight in a bed and breakfast which I had booked in advance, it being the only one listed in the guide book. In the evening I had a meal at the Whitsand Bay Hotel; through the window a near full moon was high in the sky with its silvery reflection glistening in the sea below. A beautiful sight!
Click the blue circles to see a photograph taken from that spot and read further information about the location. The blue lines indicate the direction of view. There is also a slideshow of this trip. ( )
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Penryn House Hotel
Penryn House Hotel in Polperro.
The Cornish Maids Shop
Figure on the front of The Cornish Maids Shop in Polperro.
Names on a war memorial, Polperro
Names of those who gave their lives in two world wars and the Falklands on the war... more
Polperro Community Primary School
Coast path east of Polperro
View to the west along the South West Coast Path towards Polperro.
Track and footpath
Track and footpath connecting the coast path with a road near Brent above Polperro.
View to Talland
View to Talland from a footpath following a track to the east of Polperro.
War Memorial above Downend Point
A joint war memorial for the fallen of both Polperro and Talland.
Coast path near Downend Point
The South West Coast Path near Downend Point.
Talland Bay
View across Tallant Bay from the coast path.
Talland Bay
View to the east across Talland Bay from the coast path.
Smugglers Rest, Talland
Roadside inn above Talland Bay passed by the South West Coast Path.
Low tide at Talland Bay
View to the west across Talland Bay from the coast path.
Coast path and Talland Bay
The South West Coast Path at Talland Bay.
View to the west above Talland Bay
The South West Coast Path between Talland and Looe.
The Coast path between Talland and Looe
The South West Coast Path between Talland and Looe approaching the Hore Stone... more
Hore Stone
The Hore Stone, a rocky outcrop of the coast, viewed from the South West Coast Path.
Coast path above Portnadler Bay
The South West Coast Path above Portnadler Bay.
Coast at Portnadley Bay
Low tide exposing rocks on the coast at Portnadler Bay.
Coast path above Portnadler Bay
The South West Coast Path passing above Portnadler Bay to the west of Looe.
Portnadler Bay
View across Portnadler Bay from the South West Coast Path. St George's or Looe... more
Gorse bushes above Samphire Beach
Gorse bushes beside the South West Coast Path above Samphire Beach.
Houses on Marine Drive
Houses at the western end of Marine Drive at West Looe, viewed from the South West... more
Wall at the end of Marine Drive
Approaching Marine Drive at West Looe on the coast path this wall is encountered... more
Boats left high and dry
Boats left high and dry at low tide in Looe harbour.
Marine Drive
Marine Drive at West Looe. The South West Coast Path follows this road as it enters Looe.
Low tide in Looe harbour
View across the harbour at low tide to East Looe.
Nelson the seal and the entrance to Looe harbour
Nelson was a one-eyed Grey Seal and was regularly seen in Looe harbour for many... more
Nelson the seal
Nelson was a one-eyed Grey Seal and was regularly seen in Looe harbour for many... more
Low tide at Looe
The entrance to Looe harbour pictured here at low tide.
St George's or Looe Island
St George's or Looe Island viewed from the coast path
Beach and harbour wall, Looe
View across the entrance to Looe Harbour to the beach.
Banjo Pier
Banjo Pier at the entrance to Looe Harbour. This particular pier at Looe is the... more
Entrance to Looe Harbour
Entrance to Looe Harbour and Looe Bay.
The Blind Neil Sea
The Blind Neil Sea at the entrance to the harbour at Looe.
The beach at East Looe
View over the beach at East Looe from the South West Coast Path.
Hannafore Beach
Hannafore Beach and Looe Bay.
Spring flowers on the coast path
Spring flowers beside the South West Coast Path in East Looe.
Bench seat on the coast path
A stone bench beside the South West Coast Path to the east of Looe with the... more
South West Coast Path, East Looe
South West Coast Path leaving East Looe above Limmicks.
Disused building, Millendreath
A disused building above the Millendreath beach. Not sure was this building was... more
Millendreath Beach
With this building which appears to have been a pub closed when I passed through... more
The coast path at Millendreath
The South West Coast Path ascending from Millendreath Beach.
Above Bodigga Cliff
View from the coast path above Bodigga Cliff towards Looe and Looe Island.
Picnic area, Bodigga Cliff
Tables and seat at a picnic area above Bodigga Cliff. Looe can be seen in the background.
Mysterious Sevenfold Labyrinth
This labyrinth was create in 2010 beside the South West Coast Path to the east of... more
Mysterious Sevenfold Labyrinth
This labyrinth was create in 2010 beside the South West Coast Path to the east of... more
The Coast near Looe
The view of the Cornish coast from above Salter Rocks to the east of Looe, Looe... more
Coast path east of Looe
The South West Coast path above Slater Rocks to the east of Looe. The headland of... more
South West Coast Path
The South West Coast Path passing through trees to the east of Looe.
The coast path at Struddicks
The South West Coast Path at Struddicks.
Bluebells beside the coast path
Bluebells beside the South West Coast Path above Seaton on the south Cornwall coast.
Mount Brioni, Seaton
Mount Brioni self-catering apartments on Looe Hill, Seaton.
Seaton Beach
Seaton Beach and the mouth of the River Seaton.
Houses at Seaton
Houses overlooking Seaton Beach.
Seaton Valley
Sign for a holiday countryside park in Seaton valley.
Seaton Beach
Seaton Beach in Cornwall.
Seaton
The small seaside resort of Seaton on the Cornish coast near Looe.
Road through Downderry
The South West Coast Path follows this road through Downderry.
Downderry church
St Nicholas church, Downderry.
Road into Downderry
Road into Downderry, Looe can be seen in the distance.
Coast path on Battern Cliff
The South West Coast Path high above Battern Cliff to the east of Downderry,... more
Above Battern Cliffs
The South West Coast Path above Battern Cliffs. Downderry can be seen in the... more
Coast path above Battern Cliffs
The South West Coast Path above Battern Cliffs to the east of Downderry.
Tumuli above Battern Cliffs
Tumuli above Battern Cliffs viewed from the South West Coast Path.
Coast path above Cargloth Cliffs
The South West Coast Path above Cargloth Cliffs.
View east from above Cargloth Cliff
View to the east from the South West Coast Path above Cargloth Cliff, Rame Head... more
The coast path on Cobland Hill
The South West Coast Path on Cobland Hill
The coast below Cobland Hill
The coast below Cobland Hill to the west of Portwrinkle.
Coast path above Eglarooze Cliff
The South West Coast Path above Eglarooze Cliff to the west of Portwrinkle.
Beach below Eglarooze Cliff
Beach below Eglarooze Cliff viewed from the coast path.
Cove below Britain Point
Cove below Britain Point to the west of Portwrinkle.
Old gatepost
I believe this is an old gatepost as there is a piece of ironwork in it on the... more
Coast path approaching Portwrinkle
The South West Coast Path briefly enters this grid square on its approach to... more
Memorial bench on Britain Point
Memorial bench to five members of the Harris family on Britain Point, Portwrinkle... more
Coast path approaching Portwrinkle
The South West Coast Path approaching Portwrinkle which can be seen in the middle... more
Harbour at Portwrinkle
A small harbour at Portwrinkle, Rame Head can be seen in the distance.
Lobster pots, Portwrinkle
Lobster pots above the harbour at Portwrinkle.
Fishing boat, Portwrinkle
A fishing boat and lobster pots on the slipway at Portwrinkle harbour.
Boat at Portwrinkle
Boat above the harbour wall at Portwrinkle.
Cottage in Portwrinkle
Cottage overlooking the seafront at Portwrinkle.
All images © Philip Halling and available under a Creative Commons licence .